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Actually if that is it is usually is not a big issue any more since we now it is caused by AC from the alternator or bad or dirty battery cable ends or combination of both adn if caught early has not damaged anything, which is the case here. Do do the tests I stated above.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Ok will do first thing tmrw afternoon. Im taking it to my buddy's diesel mechanic shop and he's gonna take a look at it for me and ill have him test that as well. I did earlier clean up all the connections on the battery posts on both batteries and also really cleaned up the grounds around the engine bay
 

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Make sure he tests AC like I said and post back with numbers at idle and 1500 rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Ok, also I jist realized when my interior lights are on as well as my headlights it very lightly flickers at idle. Sounds like a weak connection from the alternator or something along those lines.
 

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Maybe a bad hot wire cable from teh battery to th ePDC or the main fuse from it to the rest of the PDC. Reclean thnose terminals with wire brush terminal cleaner. No damaged terminal clamps or ones that do not tighten up well.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Yea the terminals were real clean from the wire bush/post cleaner tool I used. I spent alot of.time making sure it was as clean as it could've been
 

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That's cool, I just need to be details and thorough here becasue i never know how skilled other users are, some think cleaning terminals is brushing off the fussy stuff only, know what I mean. Plus it only it takes couple of weeks of starting on a slightly loose ground to cause arcing and want looks like calcification between the terminal an clamp while still looking generally clean. i kind of expect that he will find AC above .03v if you are having issues in lockup at 50-80mph 1,2,3 issues are still likely the GPS sensor. like if you have to accelerate extra and then let off quick to get it to shift.
I won't be on line tomorrow until evening.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Ok that guy flaked on me but im hoping I measured the correct wire. The measurements I got at idle was .022 and 1500rpm was .033
 

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The wire is the big 8 gauge wire from the alt to the battery/PDC. If that is it, to hose numbers are fine. But also try the unplug test next time it acts up.
 

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The little two wire plug on back of the alt. That runs off the alt and all input from it and runs off the batteries. If any issues go away the alt is still causing the problem. If not it confirms it is good.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Ok ill try that. Its been acting pretty good today. But I didnt get to warm it up real warm
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Ok figured out and fixed the problem. Apparently the alternator system voltage was to high like you had thought. And the throttle pressure was adjusted to fix the late shifts. Also installed a noise filter and it runs perfect now. Now I have a new problem. I walked out to my truck this morning at work and I noticed a small fuel leak from my rear fass pump. I have a picture of where its leaking from. Is this common and how can I fix it? Thanks for all u have done so far my friend.
909311
909312
 

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bigfish is going to have a fit over the noise filter! :D Glad you figured the issue out.
Just replace those. The one with the valve is the water separator and the other is the filter. You need to know the model of your Fass in order to get the correct ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Oh ok cool. Didn't realize it was so simple! I have the reciept from when the guy purchased it plus im sure i can clean it well enough to get it off the filter.
 

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You are right. The noise filter helps and is fine except that if the ad is high it is also damaging the ECM. It does not hurt anything but only half fixes the problem. The AC if high is not just affecting shifting it is damaging electronic computer parts like ECM and sometimes others. So ifthe AC is high the alternator needs replacement or rebuild with a good rectifier. Or you can buy an ECM fro 800 buck a week or year down the road often..
 

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Wow. A lot of wild guessing going on here. Pump the brakes everyone. First of all, BD doesn't use "cheap" electronics, nor do any of us specialty builders. I have no affiliation at all with BD, but they do build a good product, and "cheap" electronics is always one of the first suggestions people on here throw out. There's just a whole lot more to it than that, and it needs to be diagnosed by someone who knows what they're doing.

And I don't know what BD's position is on the Lucas additive, but it is a horrible product to use in a custom built transmission. I wouldn't be eager to cover any of its after-effects under warranty.
 

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Noise filters are fine, and if you have an alternator diode problem, that needs to be addressed as well, but until the horribly designed engine ground system is repaired, a 2nd Gen is always going to fight electrical issues.
 
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