[pwr2tow]

Question, When useing the XRT PRO, MM, BM if the fuel rail pressure is set to a safe level through their programming (since it's not adjustable) why do they recommend to shim the relief valve or plug it?

 

[pwr2tow]

Really am curious as I have not made up my mind if I'm going Smarty Sr. or XRT PRO.

 

[spoolin'up]

Who's 'they'? I've never heard it recommended if you're running just an H&S tuner.

 

[KMKDIESEL]

The relief valve is set lower then the safe level of the rail, so you can increase the level and still be safe on your pressures. I run 31k psi and have seen no problems from it and I am a firm believer in running high psi on the 6.7s

 

[pwr2tow]

Who's 'they'? I've never heard it recommended if you're running just an H&S tuner.

Look on H&S website at the bottom of their tuners page they recommend the relief plug.

 

[pwr2tow]

The relief valve is set lower then the safe level of the rail, so you can increase the level and still be safe on your pressures. I run 31k psi and have seen no problems from it and I am a firm believer in running high psi on the 6.7s

Makes sence.

How many miles on your truck running 31K psi. ?
Do you have a modified fuel rail other then shimmed or plugged?
Which one Is it, shimmed or Plugged?

 

[pwr2tow]

Anyone know the PSI on H&S programmers?
How about the Smarty Sr. PSI on default and then the Option levels?

Trying to make an informed decission before spending more money.

I drive for MPG and I know that the more timeing, duration, pressure increases both MPG (if driven conservative) and Hp. I drive with a brain.

 

[BrianAtSmarty]

Anyone know the PSI on H&S programmers?
How about the Smarty Sr. PSI on default and then the Option levels?

Trying to make an informed decission before spending more money.

I drive for MPG and I know that the more timeing, duration, pressure increases both MPG (if driven conservative) and Hp. I drive with a brain.

I can tell you on Smarty that rail pressure is not increased above the factory safe levels. Just ramps up the curve sooner which helps. More so with the higher rp parameter settings (3 and 4)

 

[pwr2tow]

I can tell you on Smarty that rail pressure is not increased above the factory safe levels. Just ramps up the curve sooner which helps. More so with the higher rp parameter settings (3 and 4)

Thanks Brian,

I have another question if you don't mind. If I were to set the RP settings on 3 or 4 would it be too much pressure and pop the relief valve.

The reason I ask is I drive conservative for component longevity and MPG. Plus I tow Max limits and am really looking for more MPG rather then Hp/Tq. Also if the rail relief should pop would it reset and at that point would it be weaker?

My thinking is increaseing the rail pressure might give me a bump in MPG. Fuel prices are killing me and my way or life.

Thanks for your time and patience,
Ron

 

[BrianAtSmarty]

Thanks Brian,

I have another question if you don't mind. If I were to set the RP settings on 3 or 4 would it be too much pressure and pop the relief valve.

The reason I ask is I drive conservative for component longevity and MPG. Plus I tow Max limits and am really looking for more MPG rather then Hp/Tq. Also if the rail relief should pop would it reset and at that point would it be weaker?

My thinking is increaseing the rail pressure might give me a bump in MPG. Fuel prices are killing me and my way or life.

Thanks for your time and patience,
Ron

Hi Ron!

Default level will work great for you for MPG.

It is not suggested to use 3 or 4 on RP level for prolonged use.

Relief valves could be a problem over time. You may need to shim, block, or replace if it was to start to pop off. Once they start to go, they get weaker as you mention.

I like using the default rail presure settings.

Thank you!

Brian
SmartyResource

 

[pwr2tow]

Brian or Bob,
Does the Smarty Jr. use modified rail pressure parimeters or stock?

 

[BrianAtSmarty]

Yes sir Ron!

Modified! Ramps up sooner just like the SR.

 

[pac_master_7]

Rail shims/plugs should never be used IMO. None if the tuners have changed the factory ECM limiter of 26110. The factory relief valve doesn't open until much higher than that. If you are running rail much higher than the 26kpsi, you run the risk of potentially ruining injectors IMO.


Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com App

 

[pwr2tow]

Rail shims/plugs should never be used IMO. None if the tuners have changed the factory ECM limiter of 26110. The factory relief valve doesn't open until much higher than that. If you are running rail much higher than the 26kpsi, you run the risk of potentially ruining injectors IMO.

Thanks, that's the info I was looking for.

 

[pwr2tow]

I can tell you on Smarty that rail pressure is not increased above the factory safe levels. Just ramps up the curve sooner which helps. More so with the higher rp parameter settings (3 and 4)

Hi Ron!

Default level will work great for you for MPG.

It is not suggested to use 3 or 4 on RP level for prolonged use.

Relief valves could be a problem over time. You may need to shim, block, or replace if it was to start to pop off. Once they start to go, they get weaker as you mention.

I like using the default rail pressure settings.

Thank you!

Brian
SmartyResource

Rail shims/plugs should never be used IMO. None if the tuners have changed the factory ECM limiter of 26110. The factory relief valve doesn't open until much higher than that. If you are running rail much higher than the 26kpsi, you run the risk of potentially ruining injectors IMO.


Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com App

I understand that the rail pressure is brought on sooner in lower rpms or load demand. If the programmer never increases pressure above a safe limit then what's the down side to running on Sr. RP setting 4. Is it just a precaution due to maybe increased injector wear? or more a liability statement from smarty for the rare occasion that might not even be related?

I read where guys are running an MP8 at 100% for hundreds of thousand of miles without problems. I think the MP8 boosts PSI higher then 26110 psi so why would running the smarty on setting 4 be bad since the smarty doesn't raise RP higher then max stock?

What's the consensus?

Thanks,
Ron

 

[NWRQC]

Rail shims/plugs should never be used IMO. None if the tuners have changed the factory ECM limiter of 26110. The factory relief valve doesn't open until much higher than that. If you are running rail much higher than the 26kpsi, you run the risk of potentially ruining injectors IMO.


Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com App

Don't quote me on this, but I believe that Bosch rates their injectors at an acceptable operational 32K psi. I know that its a lot higher than 26,xxxK. It might be 30K or 31K, but it's in the 30's. I will do my best to post info validating that asap.

I read where guys are running an MP8 at 100% for hundreds of thousand of miles without problems. I think the MP8 boosts PSI higher then 26110 psi so why would running the smarty on setting 4 be bad since the smarty doesn't raise RP higher then max stock?

What's the consensus?

Thanks,
Ron

I'm new to the MP8, but you are correct in that it raises rail pressure higher than 26K. It's a pressure box and thats what it's intended purpose is.

 

[pwr2tow]

NWRQC,
Now that's interesting and why I'm questioning Smarty when they say don't run on RP setting 3 or 4 for long periods of time.

If the Rail, cp3, injectors are all manufactured to meet pressures way higher then the ECM/programming will allow why do they recommend not to run on RP 3 or4 for long periods of time?

Guys who haul for a living will run higher RP psi stock due to engine load in stock programming.

What am I missing? or do I have it correct and could run RP setting 4 constantly?

Hellp me out ladies and gentlemen.

You can PM me if you don't want it published here.

 

[NWRQC]

NWRQC,
Now that's interesting and why I'm questioning Smarty when they say don't run on RP setting 3 or 4 for long periods of time.

If the Rail, cp3, injectors are all manufactured to meet pressures way higher then the ECM/programming will allow why do they recommend not to run on RP 3 or4 for long periods of time?

Guys who haul for a living will run higher RP psi stock due to engine load in stock programming.

What am I missing? or do I have it correct and could run RP setting 4 constantly?

Hellp me out ladies and gentlemen.

You can PM me if you don't want it published here.

The question that I have is how high is the rail pressure on setting 3 or 4?
Now that I have the MP8 I don't know what my actual rail pressure is, but a rp gauge is in the works. oh my relief is shimmed. If that matters.

By long periods of time I believe that they mean "don't floor it for 5 min". Daily driving and driving like a sane person I don't think you'll have any issues because your RP won't be that high for any period of time.

 

[pwr2tow]

The question that I have is how high is the rail pressure on setting 3 or 4?
Hopefully I'll find out within the week. I have a RP app on my smart phone and Sr. is in route. I'm in the middle of a blizzard watch right now.


Now that I have the MP8 I don't know what my actual rail pressure is, but a rp gauge is in the works. oh my relief is shimmed. If that matters.

I going to run without shimming and definitely not plugging. Will find out after running on 3 and 4 if I need the shims.

By long periods of time I believe that they mean "don't floor it for 5 min". Daily driving and driving like a sane person I don't think you'll have any issues because your RP won't be that high for any period of time.
I truly hope that's what Smarty means. My trucks a daily driver and towing machine. When I tow I tow with caution listening and analyzing everything going on

Answers in red for clarity.