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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want to put a 4k gsk in my truck. I just wanted to know if i put it in do i have to put the 60lb valve springs in? Also if im going to do that will the stock push rods be ok or do i need to replace them to?:confused013: Thanks for any info!
 

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its recommended that you do the springs..... you can float the valves at 3200....... so its kinda a judgement thing to most people....... i have em and it spins over 3200 nicely.... some people dont have them and can spin to 4k w/o popping..... if it pops its generally the valves floating.....


hope this helps ya out
 

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I've read of people (on other forums) saying they have run 4k GSK's up to 3800RPMs, on stock valve springs, with no *noticeable* valve float.
Not that it's a good idea, but it's not a fixed RPM number that people can give you that will be safe, just that it seems safe to say that 3200RPMs and below is fine on stock valve springs.
Above 3200 RPM (3250 and up) is where they say some valve float has been known to occur.
I've read people saying "up to 3400 is OK" and 3600 and 3456. Everyone has their own results.
I tell you one thing.. it's NOT the kind of thing I want to find out by running my revs until I hear valve slap!! That's SUCH a bad idea. A little is all it takes to trash your pistons.

My question:
There is a way to install the 4k gov springs where you use less springs (maybe only the large & medium springs, with NO small spring or ???) and you do, basically a 3200RPM GSK. I guess there was a "GSK Clarification" thread at either Comp Diesel or Diesel Bombers forum, but it was removed by the author.

I read that this GSK variation install was recommended by Weston in that missing thread.

Anybody here know what that special ~3200RPM spring setup was?!??
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the info it confirms what i thought. As for the push rods i am not sure about and when i do the valve springs do i need the billit spring retainers and keepers?
 

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push rods dont seem to be a huge factor...... cummins originals are well built.... if you can swing the 350 for the retainers and keepers do it..... if not you really dont need them up to 4k
 
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3500 rpm is a SAFE cutoff for stock springs

Weston tested how far he could push a motor on stock springs and it had piston to valve contact at 4100rpm

Push rods generally dont need to be replaced unless your turning 4000+ rpm or pushing some serious power.

There is a thread on compd talking about the effect on performance pushrods and how they can add power cause they wont flex as much under load, thus opening the valve sooner and farther but there is no dyno proven results from this assumption yet. But there will probalby be some sort of test comming along soon for this. Im keeping an eye on it...
 

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There is a thread on compd talking about the effect on performance pushrods and how they can add power cause they wont flex as much under load, thus opening the valve sooner and farther but there is no dyno proven results from this assumption yet. But there will probalby be some sort of test comming along soon for this. Im keeping an eye on it...
if the pushrods are bending enough to actually CAUSE a loss of power then your about to get your golden chance to change them anyway.
 

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When you change the valve springs on these is it like a gasser were you use shop air to keep the valves closed? Meaning I'd have to buy the adapter. Or is there another method?
 
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When you change the valve springs on these is it like a gasser were you use shop air to keep the valves closed? Meaning I'd have to buy the adapter. Or is there another method?
there is an adapter to use shop air to do it but you can also compress the spring and rotate the motor over untill the piston pushes up on the valve and holds it up. Then you can change the springs on that cylinder without dropping valves..
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I've heard that the keepers and retainers are not a good idea because they dont last as long and are not reliable for street use. Is this true or not? And as for the push rods if i were to upgrade them what ones would i want? I saw some on pure diesel power from $190-$320 i know haisley makes good products so would those be a good choice?:confused013:
 
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