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I just read thru the grid heater post and didn’t see the answer I’m looking for. A Friend just swallowed a grid heater stud ( nut) on his 2013 106,000 miles into #6 cyl and it’s got me wondering if Cummings changed the design in the newer engines ? Mine is a 2018 and I know I have lots of warranty left and all. My question is can I disconnect the grid heater at the solenoid and not kick on a Cel? I live in nw pa and only need it working in the winter. Thanks
 

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How did you not see the answer to your question many times in the various grid heater discussions?
 

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Greetings @Jumpinjoe 🍺
As I understand it, there are 2018 trucks that have swallowed grid heater bolts.
I have not heard of a Gen-5 digesting one yet, but give it a little time. One cold winter should flush them out of the shadows. :sneaky:
In the mean-time I'll search around the forum for a 2018 grid heater disaster post as proof.
Or... Just do a full delete and be done with all of it.👍

Not to worry though. . .
Testing has proved that the chances digesting a grid heater bolt are literally "a few" in 500,000.
Best regards,
-Ej-
 

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the easy smart way to handle it is to disconnect the grid heater power line at the solenoid so you don't have a charged line bouncing around. if it's the correct temp for the grid heater to start kicking in, and it's disconnected, you can avoid the check engine light by immediately turning the motor over. if you get in, cycle key to on but do not crank, the computer will look for grid heater turning on and not see the draw and throw a code. so short answer, a disconnected grid heater will
not throw a code if you don't allow it time to cycle on.
 

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It's easier to disconnect the feed at the battery post. And so far I haven't seen any codes pop up no matter what I do with the key. That's over a couple of years now, and down to -10 or so.
 

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Am I missing something? How does disconnecting the power to the grid heater prevent the bolt from failing into a cylinder? Wouldn’t you have to remove the whole heater?
 

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Am I missing something? How does disconnecting the power to the grid heater prevent the bolt from failing into a cylinder? Wouldn’t you have to remove the whole heater?
The electrical current running through the bolt when the grid heater cycles is what causes it to arc and fail.
 
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That video was awesome, but ya really got to see the WHOLE thing.
This user nailed it! Just buy a Ram HD with a Hemi. 😃
Cures the grid heater problem...
You can idle for days with no ill effects...
Cold weather doesn’t bother it...
Better payload capacity...
Cheaper oil changes...
Lower monthly truck payments...
And the kicker: Most FCA service techs at least have a clue when wrenching on a Hemi.(y)
 

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Anybody want to post a circled pic of which wire on the passenger battery cable to disconnect?
 

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It's a lot easier for me to just tell you that it's the one going to the grid heater solenoid. Sorry.
This. Follow the wires it can’t get any easier.
 

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Stole this picture from the other monster thread.
Believe it's where the wire is attached to the grid heater solenoid.
Tried to find it the other day but the dam skeeters drove me back inside.
All I know is that it's somewhere on the drivers side!
 

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Stole this picture from the other monster thread.
Believe it's where the wire is attached to the grid heater solenoid.
Tried to find it the other day but the dam skeeters drove me back inside.
All I know is that it's somewhere on the drivers side!
Do not disconnect here. You will have a live wire to deal with. Disconnect it at the passenger (right) side battery. The solenoid sits right next to the battery above the turbo piping.
 

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Do not disconnect here. You will have a live wire to deal with. Disconnect it at the passenger (right) side battery. The solenoid sits right next to the battery above the turbo piping.
OK, so there's the wire from the passenger side battery to the solenoid, also on the passenger side, then the wire from the solenoid to the grid heater on the driver's side. And that picture shows the wire attached to the grid heater on the driver's side, not the solenoid, if I understand this right.
 

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OK, so there's the wire from the passenger side battery to the solenoid, also on the passenger side, then the wire from the solenoid to the grid heater on the driver's side. And that picture shows the wire attached to the grid heater on the driver's side, not the solenoid, if I understand this right.

Disconnect the other end of the wire in the picture. Tie it out of the way. No live wires to deal with.
 
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