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I have a 15 6.7 ram. It started randomly loosing boost, then randomly coming back. I replaced the map sensor, #2 nox sensor cause it threw a code, and now I have the grid heater voltage to high code. I'm not a master mechanic, but doesn't seem that would effect my boost, or am I wrong? At first start up in the morning, letting the heater cycle or not, the voltage fluctuates from 13-14, give or take, reading the factory voltage gauge. And obviously the lights dim, then bright as the fluctuation happens. Is that normal? Or bad solenoid? My boost loss has dramatically improved, but still a short-term loss here and there. Noteworthy maybe, once it's at full operation temp, as on 15-20 mile drive, I have no boost issues
Turbo actuator maybe sticking causing the boost fluctuation??????? Just a wild guess on my part; maybe more knowledgeable guys will chime in here.
 

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Is there a way to change the temp setpoint at which the grid heater comes on? Maybe AlfaObd?

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Or how hot it gets when it does come on or is that the original question. Say it get a thousand degrees, have it set to turn off at 500. I know this is what EJ was working on but if it could be controlled through AlfaObd would be the cats meow.
 

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hi. i hope you got your remote start to work. so far mine is working fine. also if I didn't tell it right. my grid heater relay is still hooked up, so the pcm can still control it. I just hooked the big wire from the relay to the grid heater. so when its cold enough the relay will still come on but no power is going to the grid heater. i could be wrong but i think the pcm is just looking for a current drop on the relay coil when it is commanded on. my old 2010 was also grid heater deleted and everything was working fine and one morning I started the truck and a few seconded latter the engine light came on. I also noticed i didn't hear the grid heater come on. I looked it over and found one of the relay coil wires came lose. tightened the wire then cleared the code. the truck was back to running like it should.
Going back to the grid heater - I disco'd the lead from the battery to the grid heater relay (as opposed to Mopar71 disconnecting the lead from relay to the grid heater) about three months ago. Remote start continues to operate normally and no codes have been thrown. Mornings around my local area have been in the high teens several times in the past two weeks. Whether or not the block heater is plugged in appears to make no difference. Just an FYI.
 

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My little (light) SRW shortbed hardly sees 6th gear on long highway runs with 3.42's so I was figuring a big dually would certainly have 4.10's or so. :unsure:
 

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My little (light) SRW shortbed hardly sees 6th gear on long highway runs with 3.42's so I was figuring a big dually would certainly have 4.10's or so. :unsure:
Well, the shorter DRW tires help a bit, but I sure wouldn't want less than 3.73s. Rightfully I should have 4.10s, but I tend to drive a bit too fast for those gears.
 
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A 2017 dually with 3.42:1 diff gears? :unsure:
I had no idea that was even possible.
-Ej-
It does. I never really haul or tow more than 10K regularly and the damn thing pulls like a loco with the 3.42 rear. Even with that measly ratio, I’ve never given a second thought about what I hook to the hitch or pintle. The 68RFE likes to get to top gear in a hurry and sometimes with that rear, you have to stomp it a bit to get the trans to drop a gear and TC lock. When not towing, the 3.42 delivers a consistent 19 mpg (hand calculated) if I keep the cruise on 65.
 

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Greetings @Bob Lilley
I have a little 2016 SRW 3500 shortbed with 3.42 gears, Cummins-HO engine, Aisin trans, scale weight about 12,400 pounds.
While I can't say it pulls like a locomotive I will say that it gets 11.5 MPG consistently and very rarely sees 6th gear.

Actually it spends most of its life in 4th & 5th.
However if the ground is flat enough and my foot is heavy enough I can get eventually get it into 6th.

Thanks for the reply & nice camper! (y)
 
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Greetings @Bob Lilley
I have a little 2016 SRW 3500 shortbed with 3.42 gears, Cummins-HO engine, Aisin trans, scale weight about 12,400 pounds.
While I can't say it pulls like a locomotive I will say that it gets 11.5 MPG consistently and very rarely sees 6th gear.

Actually it spends most of its life in 4th & 5th.
However if the ground is flat enough and my foot is heavy enough I can get eventually get it into 6th.

Thanks for the reply & nice camper! (y)
Thank you sir - we LOVE the truck camper. If I could talk the ol' lady into ditching a permanent residence, I'd be living in that thing. Retiring end of '22 and the plan is to chase the warm weather with the motorcycles in tow. Yeah - that MPG for me is interstate with a mild 65 setting on the cruise - empty. I don't have a good around town or "stop/start" MPG rating as the truck sees highways almost exclusively. With the camper in the bed and the trailer hooked, I get about 9-12, headwind depending, at 75 MPH. Regards.
 

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Going back to the grid heater - I disco'd the lead from the battery to the grid heater relay (as opposed to Mopar71 disconnecting the lead from relay to the grid heater) about three months ago. Remote start continues to operate normally and no codes have been thrown. Mornings around my local area have been in the high teens several times in the past two weeks. Whether or not the block heater is plugged in appears to make no difference. Just an FYI.
I forgot to plug my truck in last night and the truck remote started right up this morning in 7 degree weather. Also no codes etc.
 
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