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If I'm reading this correctly, I dont have to worry about the grid heater unless I see below zero temps colder the -10 degrees F.

I have always been aware that you have to wait for the amber "glow plug" light to shut off before starting tho.
I doubt that my 3500 will act much differently at -20 than it does at -10 with the grid heater disconnected. It just haven't got down to -20 in the last few years.

And you don't have to wait for the light to go out. Especially if you disconnect the heater, you probably shouldn't.
But why not just tighten the connection if you want to use the heater? If nothing else it would allow doing a jiggle test.
 

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2011 Ram 2500 4x4 6.7 68RFE 4 inch lift
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I haven’t looked at a grid heater, but it sounds as though a tack weld or tig weld the nut would do the trick.
 

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I doubt that my 3500 will act much differently at -20 than it does at -10 with the grid heater disconnected. It just haven't got down to -20 in the last few years.

And you don't have to wait for the light to go out. Especially if you disconnect the heater, you probably shouldn't.
But why not just tighten the connection if you want to use the heater? If nothing else it would allow doing a jiggle test.
Hey Jimmy, thanks for taking the time to reply to my inquiry.
Yes, tightening the bolt was my first thought, but after reading about the grid heater bolt issue, and my connecting being loose, I'm questioning the integrity of the bolt that has the issue. It sounds like disconnecting the lead on the solenoid is a safer option if in question.

Also, regarding the turn key process, I understand not waiting for the light to go out when starting the truck, but what about when I use remote start. To my understanding, the remote start waits for the light to go out before initiating the engine start. Will using the remote start create a CEL? I've read that the code for the hater grid performance will and will not create a CEL. If it does, the remote start will not work.

Thanks again.
 

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Sorry, can't speak for what happens when using remote start. My 3500 doesn't have it, and I've never used it on the vehicles that do. I want to be there and see and hear what's going on when starting an engine.

But what I do know is that with the cable disconnected there hasn't been any codes of any kind even when waiting for the light to go out. Okay, it hasn't been waiting for it in the true sense, but when playing around with AlfaOBD and such, the ignition gets turned on and left on for a while.
 
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I understand not waiting for the light to go out when starting the truck, but what about when I use remote start. To my understanding, the remote start waits for the light to go out before initiating the engine start. Will using the remote start create a CEL? I've read that the code for the hater grid performance will and will not create a CEL. If it does, the remote start will not work.
The remote start will work with the grid heater disconnected for 3 consecutive start/run cycles.
At that point you will throw a P2609 and the remote start will no longer work.

Re-connect the grid for two start/run cycles and the code will clear and the remote-start will begin working again.
Just sayin' 🍺
 

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W
The remote start will work with the grid heater disconnected for 3 consecutive start/run cycles.
At that point you will throw a P2609 and the remote start will no longer work.

Re-connect the grid for two start/run cycles and the code will clear and the remote-start will begin working again.
Just sayin' 🍺
Thanks for the help, regarding your youtube on the grid heater, where you successful reducing the amps down to 150 and the BCM not sending the p2609 code? If so, I would be very appreciative getting a parts list and schematic if you would be okay sharing.
 

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Thanks for the help, regarding your youtube on the grid heater, where you successful reducing the amps down to 150 and the BCM not sending the p2609 code?
No Sir. Never followed thru on that.

My simple "dummy load" system has been working fine since the day I installed it so I never moved forward with the more complex "fool the BCM" device.
I could explain the concept here if you like... but without a schematic, component values, part numbers, and me proving it in actual operation it would just be a lot of me theory-blabbing. :rolleyes:

One thing I can tell you is that the BCM device would be a lot easier on the batteries and allow a lot more cranking power to the starter in the winter.(y)

Final thought. . .
If my truck would fit in my (heated) garage I probably would have done the BCM thing long ago. ⛄
-Ej-
 

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Hey Jimmy, thanks for taking the time to reply to my inquiry.
Yes, tightening the bolt was my first thought, but after reading about the grid heater bolt issue, and my connecting being loose, I'm questioning the integrity of the bolt that has the issue. It sounds like disconnecting the lead on the solenoid is a safer option if in question.

Also, regarding the turn key process, I understand not waiting for the light to go out when starting the truck, but what about when I use remote start. To my understanding, the remote start waits for the light to go out before initiating the engine start. Will using the remote start create a CEL? I've read that the code for the hater grid performance will and will not create a CEL. If it does, the remote start will not work.

Thanks again.
I did the grid heater Delete on my 2016 and I have remote start. All i did was unhook the main battery wire from the grid heater relay to the grid Heater. I left the battery wire hooked up going to the grid heater relay. which you need to so the PCM will see a current draw when the grid heater is activated. i have remote started my truck in 24 degree weather and have not had any problems. but the truck acts just like the grid heater is hooked up. by that i mean there is a delay like there would be if the grid heater was still working. i hope that makes sense.lol I mean i hope i explained it right .
also yes the remote start will not work if the engine light is on.
 

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I did the grid heater Delete on my 2016 and I have remote start. All i did was unhook the main battery wire from the grid heater relay to the grid Heater. I left the battery wire hooked up going to the grid heater relay. which you need to so the PCM will see a current draw when the grid heater is activated. i have remote started my truck in 24 degree weather and have not had any problems. but the truck acts just like the grid heater is hooked up. by that i mean there is a delay like there would be if the grid heater was still working. i hope that makes sense. lol
Please understand that my intent is NOT to argue or say you are wrong. On the contrary, I am very interested in how your simple & effective 'fix' functions.

I went thru a lot of aggravation and expense to load the IBS with 200 amps via a dummy load mounted behind my engine fan so the BCM 'sees' a healthy grid heater load when the grid heater is in reality disconnected.

Normally, without simulating a 200 amp grid heater load at the Intelligent Battery Sensor every time the Intake Air Heater Relay cycles, the PCM will throw a P2609, light the MIL, and block the remote start feature.

What you did sounds exactly like the @Jimmy N. method but in your case you still have a fully functioning remote start feature.
Nice! (y)
 

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What you did sounds exactly like the @Jimmy N. method but in your case you still have a fully functioning remote start feature.
Nice! (y)
Well, in my case the entire high-amp portion of the system is de-energized, by disconnecting the cable at the battery instead. It's a much easier connection to get to, and if I had a later model Ram (which could catch the solenoid on fire), really the best way. Although, they probably only get hot if there's a load on the system.

I don't know if the vehicle can sense if the solenoid is still activated or not, but I strongly suspect that Ej is correct and that it's looking for a substantial draw, which is the heater itself. In that sense it shouldn't matter where the high-amp portion is interrupted, or if only a primary wire is disconnected making the solenoid inoperable.

What I know for sure is that my 3500 works just fine with the heater disconnected, and that the engine will run better without any shrapnel on top of a piston.
 

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Next item. . .
Hey @Dirrrk I found this diagram in my junk pile from when I was first putting together the "dummy load" version of the Killer Grid Heater Bolt fix.

-Ej- 🍺
 

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Typically. . .
  • Disconcerting either of the thin wires from the grid heater solenoid will cause a P0541 to illuminate the MIL.
  • Disconnecting either of the thick wires from the grid heater relay will cause a P2609 to illuminate the MIL.
A P0541 is a faulty solenoid: (not too bad).
A P2609 is a faulty grid: (pending disaster).
Neither code will cause a Limp Mode...
Well, unless you ignore a P2609 long enough, since running on 5 cylinders has a limping effect. :sneaky:
-Ej- 🍺
 

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I disconnected the grid supply cable from cold side of the relay on my 15 . No codes, no mil. But I don’t have remote start to complicate matters.
 

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OK< question for you guys that know. I have an ‘18 Longhorn Edition with push button start. Here in sunny AZ where I am it MAY get down below freezing so heater is not really needed. So far a double push of the button and it fires right up. The only time I see the little curly grid heater light is when ALL of the lights light up on the intitial button push, but never see the light again after the engine starts.
So, here is my question. If the curly light is not showing, is the grid heater not operating as some say it continues to heat efter the engine has started? Or since the lighht is not showing, the heater is not on?
Thanks guys.
 

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Watch your voltage after startup. If it cycles below normal charging voltage the grid is heating.
K. Thanks. I guess I just will have to remember to watch it immediately upon startup.
 

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Update. Cold start……50 degree ambient temp; double push and volt meter shows 11V for a few seconds after start, then pops up to 14V, WITH all wires connected. Drove 40 miles in to town, warm start, double push of start button……same thing. Dis-connected same wire @Jimmy N. shows in his pic…….nothing changes. Double push and 11V for a few seconds then 14V, cold or hot. WTF?????
 
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