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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok this is kinda a newb question but can I take my grid heater completely out and bolt my intake horn directly to the block?

I have seen a couple threads close to this topic but no one hasn't actually wrote up anything a "complete" delete of the grid heater. Usually the thread covers gutting out the old one and putting it back on... Any input on the subject would be awesome thanks!!!
 

· MOLON LABE
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no you cant bolt the horn directly to the head. the cold side piping would not let you, you need something there to make everything fit right.

if you stay in hawaii id delete it. if youre moving back to colorado keep it. theres not much to gain by removing it.
 
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you can gut the grid heater or buy the block from cummins or from several venders. glacer, winspeed and others make them. the grid heater is for emission control and is not needed. the industrial cummins spacer block is #3988808 i think it is $29 the coldest i have started my truck was 20* below zero. the few mornings that was colder i decided i did not want to play out side.

 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys!!!! Huge help!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
One more thing fellas what do I do with cables connected on the fuel rail side. Because if I do end up gutting it, will it throw a code or can I take all those cables completely out
 

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One more thing fellas what do I do with cables connected on the fuel rail side. Because if I do end up gutting it, will it throw a code or can I take all those cables completely out
won't throw a code BUT you must disconnect the cables from the relays OR disconnect the relays so they don't energize the cables!
If you don't and they touch metal (especially an injector line) it won't be pretty.
 
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it depends your truck is in transition. the 04.5 up trucks throws 2 different codes. first code if it is below 55* the ecm calls for the heater, during the wait to start time the ecm looks for the voltage drop, if it does not see it a code is set off. this one is easy, just do wait to start. turn the key on and start the truck. the second one is when below 55* and ecm calls for the heater the ecm looks to see relay current. there is two ways to handle this the wire from the battery to the solenoids is actually a fuse link. just remove it.the ecm sees the solenoids still work and no code. i remove the two wires from the solenoids to the grid just to clean it up. the second way is what i do the most. the control wire from the ecm to the solenoids is a 16 gage green wire. i remove everything. fuse link, solenoids,grid wire and mounting brackets. next i dig around and find me about a 24 ohm 10 watt resistor and hook it between ground and the green wire. really cleans it up. you can probably go higher on the ohms I'm just to lazy to try, i know this works and have fixed and adjustable in this size.
 

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Delete it....your truck will be fine

My truck will sit for 1-2 weeks without use during the winter

It will start and idle fine, without plugging it in either











 
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· MOLON LABE
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helps the burn when cold, zip after warmed up. it doesn't come on.
lol yeah i get that. i was curious as to why the grid heater would be considered "emissions" equipment.
 

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lol yeah i get that. i was curious as to why the grid heater would be considered "emissions" equipment.
should have expanded a little bit I guess (I do that alot, cliff notes answers).
Helps burn the fuel more efficiently when cold, less emissions/unburned fuel out the tailpipe.
Same reason (more or less) gassers/diesels have the cat conv. close to the engine and run hotter (nowadays). The faster they can get the cat hot (lit off) the less emissions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So Gutted out my heater grid and took out the wiring and everything... One word! WOW night and day difference in spool up. Highly pleased. Thanks again for all the input guys!!!!!
 

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So Gutted out my heater grid and took out the wiring and everything... One word! WOW night and day difference in spool up. Highly pleased. Thanks again for all the input guys!!!!!
i really need to get into the aftermarket diesel industry:doh:
 

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So I guess we're hearing of real-world differences (seat of the pants) improvements. I'm interested. Are there any others who can confirm snappier performance spool up/gains?

--D
 

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Oh and I forgot to mention my egts at "operating temp" used to be about 380-390 and they have been consistently 360-370 so for me this DIY budget upgrade was well worth 25 minutes of my time.
 

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OK talked me into it. My grid heater relays burned up one morning so I unplugged the heater and relays. Truck has run fine for 3 months and starts easily in 20 degree weather. So yeah i'm gonna gut that sucker this weekend. Thanks yall...
 

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It was +2 this morning and -15 wind chill this morning

My truck has been sitting for 5 days also, and it was not plugged in

My truck started up and idled completely fine
 
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