yes, real gauge. i run rotella 15W-40 but now that i think about it i dont know if i chose trippleT or T6...
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June's Cummins of the Month is now open for entries! SUMMER FUN
grid heater and oil pressure
is 81psi at cold idle to high? my truck starts there and falls to 38psi at idle when warm.
its gotten a bit chilly here and ive started to notice it a bit harder to crank and more white smoke. my "wait to start" light has not come on yet. what type of diagnostic can i do to test this with out needing to make the engine colder?
thanks.
its gotten a bit chilly here and ive started to notice it a bit harder to crank and more white smoke. my "wait to start" light has not come on yet. what type of diagnostic can i do to test this with out needing to make the engine colder?
thanks.
1 - 16 of 34 Posts
it hit about 30F day before yesterday and no wait to start light, it was cold enough to produce just a little bit of white smoke but not a lot. the fuses are all good for the grid heater so maybe its just not cold enough yet.
no light and no heating
can i force that circuit to close to test it?
the ECM has self diags on it right? if an ECM goes bad i would assume other would go wrong and the WTS would be the least of my problems. seems strange only one function would go bad?
if everything but the WTS works then i suppose i dont care, ill just delete the heater and call it a day.
if everything but the WTS works then i suppose i dont care, ill just delete the heater and call it a day.
just did a google of ecms, 650 going rate? my pcm was like 120 at a scrap yard.
well ill run with it and see what happens, what all does that control? if the truck is on and it goes out does it shut off or will it stay running?
well ill run with it and see what happens, what all does that control? if the truck is on and it goes out does it shut off or will it stay running?
ill double check tomorrow but i think its staying at 13V. the batteries are good but they are not always fully charged. my drive to work is rather short and my radio pulls about the same as my at is producing i think. the batteries stay charged if i dont blast the music but do not remain charged when its turned loud and i dont drive long enough. i will need to install a second alternator i think.
the alt has no ripple its a few months old. the volume of the system does impact how the batteries charge as the truck takes about 5 turns of the flexplate to start durring cranking (im pretty sure there is a small air leak in the fuel system by the pump that is allowing the fuel to back drain as i can bump the starter and let the pump run a bit and it starts faster). my short 4 mile drive to work is not enough time to allow the alt to charge the batteries back up after that draw. the radio pulls about 350A at full tilt, the alternator puts out about 405A at full tilt so its pretty close.
ill report back in about an hour on the WTS light as im about to leave for work.
ill report back in about an hour on the WTS light as im about to leave for work.
the voltage gauge started at 13 and stayed there, i never saw it drop or go back up. HOWEVER after letting it sit for 20 seconds and THEN starting it fired up instantly. i do not know if its a fluke or if the heater is actually working??? now i have NEVER seen these batteries drop like you say they will, my understanding is the heater core only pulls like 300A right? so thats a very small load to make them go from 13 to 8.
300A does not seem very much, i can use my winch and not have more than a 0.4V drop over a 15 min period and it pulls a good deal over 300A. i have 4 group 49 AGM's from sears (diehard platinum), they are rated at 850CCA each and an alternator that puts out 290A at idle.
i did the test this morning, i noticed no voltage drop but it started easier as if the grid heater was working. there was no WTS light. maybe i should get a clamp meeter and check for current draw when i turn the key forward?
i did the test this morning, i noticed no voltage drop but it started easier as if the grid heater was working. there was no WTS light. maybe i should get a clamp meeter and check for current draw when i turn the key forward?
im still working on that remote starter install and i came across 4 cut wires in a harness above the white box with bolt in plug to the left of the steering column. anyone know what the wires coming from the top of that box go to? the front 4 wires were cut.
shop labor rates would be 4200.00 (ish) for this install
i am a viper installer, i won all that product at the local training we had a couple days ago in the raffle. so far its a pretty sweet system
the wires were not aftermarket, they were part of the factory harness and in the main wiring harness to the engine bay. a black/orange wire, brown/blue, brown, and a yellow/violet.
i am a viper installer, i won all that product at the local training we had a couple days ago in the raffle. so far its a pretty sweet system
the wires were not aftermarket, they were part of the factory harness and in the main wiring harness to the engine bay. a black/orange wire, brown/blue, brown, and a yellow/violet.
no trailer harness plug. the wiring that was cut was VERY tight up in there. it is most certainly factory and is coming out of the top of the junction box that has a plug held in with a bolt on its face, to the left of the steering column under the dash. this wiring goes thorugh the fire wall and into the distro box of fuses under the hood. it looks to me like someone had something tied or wrapped around this large factory harness and in the process of cutting it off they snipped these wires. the wires are all next to one another. i have not tested voltage on these wires but perhaps i will, im getting more curious as to wtf they were for. the FSM shows the plug i speak of but goes into no further detail im afraid.
at shop rates the install would be as follows, yes that 4200 was a typo.
5706- 499.99
vsm 250 - 350.00
relays X6- 179.94
451m - 39.99
508D - 129.99
516L - 199.99
506M - 59.99
diodeiso - 49.99
504D - 29.99
shop - 7.79
the following is labor
removal of old system - 69.99
tach hook up - 29.99
factory alarm disarm - 29.99
radar sensor - 79.99
8ga power run - 99.99
window hook up - 149.99
defrost hook up - 75.00
wiper hook up - 125.99
aditional siren wiringX12 - 179.94
winch hook up - 99.99
clean up of current wiring - 95.00/hour
rear tool box sensor - 39.99
passenger door - 75.00
total of 2711.51
189.80 of tax
for a grand total of $2900.51
at shop rates the install would be as follows, yes that 4200 was a typo.
5706- 499.99
vsm 250 - 350.00
relays X6- 179.94
451m - 39.99
508D - 129.99
516L - 199.99
506M - 59.99
diodeiso - 49.99
504D - 29.99
shop - 7.79
the following is labor
removal of old system - 69.99
tach hook up - 29.99
factory alarm disarm - 29.99
radar sensor - 79.99
8ga power run - 99.99
window hook up - 149.99
defrost hook up - 75.00
wiper hook up - 125.99
aditional siren wiringX12 - 179.94
winch hook up - 99.99
clean up of current wiring - 95.00/hour
rear tool box sensor - 39.99
passenger door - 75.00
total of 2711.51
189.80 of tax
for a grand total of $2900.51
i was in the shop over night and im still not done. the main reason it is taking so long is when i bought this truck a couple years ago i was mostly mechanical. i had to replace the entire dash and swap it from another dodge ram. now that i have been working in electrical at my shop i have learned more in this last year than i had known my entire life. thus i am unfu**ing a good deal of the wiring inside the dash area that i had to repair from the previous owner and i attempted to repair when i bought the truck.
aside from that our shop rates are 95.00 an hour, the average remote starter is around 750.00 installed for newer vehicles and around the 500.00 range for older ones.
aside from that our shop rates are 95.00 an hour, the average remote starter is around 750.00 installed for newer vehicles and around the 500.00 range for older ones.
1 - 16 of 34 Posts
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