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I ordered a gov. spring, should be here end of this week or beginin of next. But I need detailed instructions on how to install it right, i dont want to frig this up. Also am I goin to have to change my idle or anything?
 

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hey go to page 6 of the performance parts discussion and scroll down till you see "where should i buy the 3,200 rpm spring" and there you go
 

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By all rights the thread needs to be retitled to "Spring Replacement" or "Gov Spring Pictures" as it has nothing to do with a VE pump rebuild.

I'll let it slide as the originator may, at some point, include a rebuild reference. If not, it will need to be changed as it complicates a search for information.
 

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They make it out to be way harder than it really is. The first time I did it, took maybe an hour and a half. Last one I did, 1 hour and I removed the AFC lever and tapped the ball holes and used set screws instead of gooping in the bb's.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
They make it out to be way harder than it really is. The first time I did it, took maybe an hour and a half. Last one I did, 1 hour and I removed the AFC lever and tapped the ball holes and used set screws instead of gooping in the bb's.
not gettin it?
ball holes? and goopin what bb's
 

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The ball bearing holes. You know.......the ones that keep the fuel from squirting out form the shaft holes that are drilled in the side of the pump.

The factory method is ball bearings. They are pressed into the soft pump body to seal the holes. The reseal methgod is to machine them holes out to install a steel cup plug. That's work. So you can goop them with some liquid metal epoxy. The pump shop method is to use a slight oversized bearing to press back in there.

This is pump rebuild jargan and I could explain it further if need be.
 
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