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My spun smoothly, not real easy but solid feeling with no wobble. What I did was drove it for a few miles and checked the hub temps with an infrared temp gun. They were a little warm at first but that may have just been from braking several times or maybe they just had to break-in a bit. The warmest I saw was 125F and subsequent checks during a 600 mile trip were even less around 100.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Cool Beans, as far as the axle snap ring goes when you put the locking hubs on, is it really necessary, I know that there is a groove but when you put the hub body in you really can't see it unless there is a trick.
 

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There are three rings. The small one that goes over the axle shaft I used a snap ring pliers with no problem. The other two big rings go side by side in the same groove in the hub in front of the black part of the lock out. Without the big spiral ring right next to the big snap ring the lock-out dial will rattle over bumps in the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
I pulled apart the hub assembly and did another check, the groove on the axle shaft is so far back that with the hub body pushed in there is no way that little snap ring will work, I can't even see the groove, then again I have the stubby hubs so I don't know if that makes a difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Well I called Solid axle this morning about the snap ring, I was told that for some trucks it needs to be used but for mine which it really doesn't unless you slide the axle shaft outward's which I wont do so it's all together and there is no end play top to bottom and side to side and it spins a lot better than the stock hubs, here are some pics of them on. I have decided to leave the hubs exposed that way it shows them off.
908691
908692
908693
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Well I took her out this morning to see how good or bad I did, so I did kind of short hop to see if I get any noise or grinding which I did not, about half way to where I was going I pulled over and checked the hubs to see how warm or hot they were, they were warm but I did notice that the drivers side was slightly warmer then the passenger side, when I got to my turn around point I checked again and the same results, I then brought her back to the house nonstop and when I got home and parked, I checked again and still the same, drivers side was still warmer than the passenger side, I went ahead and pulled out one of my hydraulic jack stands and checked for end play, the drivers side there was none either side to side and top to bottom but when I did the passenger side I didn't get any side to side but I did get just a little bit top to bottom which tells me that I need to tighten down the inner spindle nut back down to 50 FTLBS then back it off 1/8 instead of 1/4, but all in all my first impression with the Carli Ball Joints and hubs was great, no wondering, less felt bumps and I did notice a slightly increase in MPG, now if someone could chime in, other than taking the wheel off, do I need to remove the caliper and rotor or can I leave them on to make the adjustment? as a side note, I did notice on the sealed hubs, there was a blue heat ring on the inside and it was worse on the drivers side then on the passenger side but the heat rings were on both.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Well come to find out that it's not really the hub but the brake rotor, I took the wheel off and the movement that I am getting is from the rotor and I can even see it, if I grab the hub and go back and forth with it there's no movement but if grab the rotor and go from side to side then I can see it, so what would be a good fix for that?
 

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Once the jugs are torqued, the rotor movement stops. Also, the 50ftlbs and backing off a 1/4 turn is BS! The spindle groove and holes in that washer to line up with the tit dictate how tight or loose that nut is and then the outer nut is what keeps everything in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Even with the wheels torqued down the passenger side rotor still had some minor slop, the rotors are original, I had them turned when I did the power stop Z36 pads, I went ahead and ordered a full set of Power Stop rotors, believe it or not, some tire shops will put the wheels back on any vehicle with an air impact to tight and that warps the rotor, I have had that happen with my 96 GMC so if I take my vehicles in to get worked on and they need to remove the wheels then fine but when they put them back on I tell them to do it by hand then use your torque wrench to torque them down.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
So I still have this burning question on the hubs, is it normal for the drivers side hub to get warmer than the passenger side?
 

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Mine did for awhile, but I’m mostly in town driving. Then we made a few trips over to the Central Coast to visit family and they were both even in temps after that. If your experiencing large temperature differences between them, then I’d be concerned, but if it’s a few degrees, it could also be air pressure differential between the tires or dragging calipers.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
I do need to get one of those laser temp guns and keep an eye on it, I just figured that since the drivers side has a shorter axle shaft then the drivers side that would be the difference.
 

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Anyone know what a safe operating temp is for the hubs?

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Well after putting some miles on the truck today, I went to Lowe's to get one of those temperature gizmos, the highest reading I have gotten so far was 114 pass side and 115 drivers side and so far nothing over that, I have heard about heat transfer from the rotors to the hubs which is possible and my highest MPG so far has been 19.7 so they are making a difference, I do have the S&B cold air intake with the snorkel which has been on the truck for the last 7 years other than that I am happy with the results so far.
 

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Well after putting some miles on the truck today, I went to Lowe's to get one of those temperature gizmos, the highest reading I have gotten so far was 114 pass side and 115 drivers side and so far nothing over that, I have heard about heat transfer from the rotors to the hubs which is possible and my highest MPG so far has been 19.7 so they are making a difference.
Majority of the time the temperature difference in the hub depends on the preloading of the bearing. If one is tighter than the other when you do that step, you could experience warmer temps, even hot. Over tightening is where you will get hotter temps. I've done multi-state road trips then checked my hubs (not with a temp gun). They are warm to the touch, but not hot. I could easily keep my hand on them and not get burned.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
That's what I thought to about the bearings, one being tighter than the other, and as soon as I get the new rotors I plan on doing some adjusting with the spindle nut while I have the calipers off and maybe kind of get a look to see if I need to squirt some grease in there so that's the game plan as of now.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Well after getting the Power Stop drilled and slotted rotors in, I did the swap from the old to the new, rechecked the hubs "Mainly on the drivers side" I had to loosen up the inner spindle nut just ever so slightly and put in just a little more grease, I took her out and did the brake pad break in for the new rotors "40-10 5X and 35-5 5x then 5 min continuously" my first stop the hubs were reading mid 80's on the pass side and low 90's drivers side and the rotors were reading 110F, then took of again and drove down a ways, pulled over and checked again and same results, I did this 3 more times till I got home and did the final reading and no change, since doing that the hubs are running cooler from when I first put them on, so yes some adjustments need to be done after the initial install, I also noticed a bigger increase in the MPG, I was getting around 18ish or so at first but after doing the rotors and minor adjustments I have gotten a bigger increase in the MPG's (See Pics), so yeah I am a happy camper and anyone wanting to do this, go for it and you too will be happy. The next pet project is getting the brake system flushed which will be today or tomorrow, I have one of those pneumatic brake fluid bleeder tool's coming in today so I get to see how that works.
 

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