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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
That truck looks super clean with no rust or dents at all.
Has it been in California all it's life?

An 18 year old 2004 truck with 200k miles is going to need work.
If all the rubber hoses are original and you are planning to tow long distances, they should all be replaced.
Heater hoses, rad hoses, turbo boots, the 2 silicon heater pipe couplers under exhaust manifold.

The front end will also need work especially if it still has the original Y style steering linkage and steering box.
May need shocks, brakes.
Brakes bled, coolant flush, power steering flush.

I like Redline fluids, MTL in the NV5600, 75W-140 in the rear axle, 75W-90 in the front axle.

Hopefully the HVAC blend doors are working ok. Unfortunately there is no cabin filter in these trucks but one can be retrofitted if you have the HVAC box out.

www.genosgarage.com plus check your local Cummins dealer for the best prices.
Yep, CA trucks don’t really rust. CA DOT only uses sand and plows, no beet juice or salt.

I 100% agree about a thorough maintenance. I’m doing everything on your list and then some.

Though it steers pretty well and no visible play is present in the tie rods or ball joints, I’ll be doing the front end as well. I was liking that the Carli ball joints are lifetime, but my cousin says I should just save my money and get EMF. Not sure which brand tie rods I’ll get yet, Moogs have been hit or miss on the last couple projects.

Fortunately, the PO had the HVAC blend door stuff fixed with metal components I believe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I ordered (3) 26230 hoses for intercooler/charge pipes. Now I’m looking at Geno’s garage and they show 26230a and 26230b. I thought they were the same. Any chance they are and they’re just listed separately?

Water Light Product Automotive lighting Aqua
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Since I have the front drive mostly disassembled, I was thinking of replacing my front main seal. Also, the bearing that the fan clutch pulley rotates on doesn’t sound as quiet as I’d like it to…
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bicycle part Rim Automotive wheel system
 
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It's been a long time since I had a stock turbo and intercooler on my truck!
If I recall, 3 of the boots are identical. The one at the intercooler entry, intercooler exit and at the intake horn.
The long one, that is most failure prone, is at the turbo exit.

Check out the wiring harness under the AC compressor near the oil filter and the fan clutch wires. Both weak points.
If you end up replacing the fan clutch, those things are pricey and most aftermarket replacements do not work properly.
Those things are too freaking complicated. Many guys have gone to old style, simple mechanical fan clutches.

If the original lift pump is still attached to the engine at the rear of the fuel filter cannister, that is also problematic.

I hope you have some kind of gauges or OBDII monitor in your plans.
Boost, pyro, lift pump fuel psi, real oil pressure gauge and more!
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
It's been a long time since I had a stock turbo and intercooler on my truck!
If I recall, 3 of the boots are identical. The one at the intercooler entry, intercooler exit and at the intake horn.
The long one, that is most failure prone, is at the turbo exit.

Check out the wiring harness under the AC compressor near the oil filter and the fan clutch wires. Both weak points.
If you end up replacing the fan clutch, those things are pricey and most aftermarket replacements do not work properly.
Those things are too freaking complicated. Many guys have gone to old style, simple mechanical fan clutches.

If the original lift pump is still attached to the engine at the rear of the fuel filter cannister, that is also problematic.

I hope you have some kind of gauges or OBDII monitor in your plans.
Boost, pyro, lift pump fuel psi, real oil pressure gauge and more!
My fan clutch still works, but I was replacing it as preventative maintenance. What’s the service life for the OEM clutch? I got the Hayden from Napa auto parts for $140. Is there a part number of vehicle application you can give me for the non-electric fan clutch? Edit: I found the adapter to run an obs ford clutch.

I plan on getting a monitor. Maybe a tuner/monitor that has a setting that actually increases mpg.

I was looking at this one. Only problem is all the harness for the different sensors are quite expensive.
 

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I have been using an Edge Evolution CTS for just gauges for about 4 years now, all is good.
Really like the EAS system for being able to add the LP psi and a real oil psi.
If you do buy into it, don't buy transducers from Edge, way overpriced. You can get quality ones on Amazon.com or eBay for about $20-25 as of last year.
I have used both with about 3-5 years of life from them.

 
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If your 2004.0 electronic fan clutch is still working, I would keep it and reinstall it.
Searching on this forum will bring up tons of frustration with these fan clutches plus the mechanical conversion details.
If I recall, only 1 or 2 aftermarket fan clutches will work on these trucks and a pricey OEM replacement is best.

While I like and have 5 Autometer analog gauges, if you are starting from scratch, an OBDII monitor is easiest like Trynto posted above.

Fuel filtration was completely inadequate on these trucks and additional fuel filtration is highly recommended.
The injectors on these trucks are pricey.
Hopefully, and most likely your truck has been converted to in tank lift pump. The OEM in-tank pumps are excellent but you still need to have a lift pump fuel pressure gauge.
Gauges/monitors are pricey but they will save you time, money and stress.


As was mentioned, these are great trucks but are far from perfect and have numerous weak points.
The perfect truck has yet to have been built.
If you bought a 2004 Powerstroke or 2004 Duramax you would have bigger issues. :)
I'm a Ford guy, but in 2004 a Powerstroke 6.0L was already the worst engine ever...
I bought a 2004.5 Cummins in 2004 and never looked back.

Many folks have been dissecting, analyzing, modding, improving these 3rd Gen trucks for nearly 20 years.
There is a ton of info on this forum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I have been using an Edge Evolution CTS for just gauges for about 4 years now, all is good.
Really like the EAS system for being able to add the LP psi and a real oil psi.
If you do buy into it, don't buy transducers from Edge, way overpriced. You can get quality ones on Amazon.com or eBay for about $20-25 as of last year.
I have used both with about 3-5 years of life from them.

I understand that you are running the manual fan clutch mod for your truck from reading another thread. What manual clutch are you running? How does it do towing up grades?
 

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The ford OBS with the adapter and OEM fan.
Haven't towed real heavy, but we did really steep (8-10º+ and miles long) on vacation in mid-Sept. with about 4500 lbs behind it and only about 5-6ºf more than running empty
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
If your 2004.0 electronic fan clutch is still working, I would keep it and reinstall it.
Searching on this forum will bring up tons of frustration with these fan clutches plus the mechanical conversion details.
If I recall, only 1 or 2 aftermarket fan clutches will work on these trucks and a pricey OEM replacement is best.

While I like and have 5 Autometer analog gauges, if you are starting from scratch, an OBDII monitor is easiest like Trynto posted above.

Fuel filtration was completely inadequate on these trucks and additional fuel filtration is highly recommended.
The injectors on these trucks are pricey.
Hopefully, and most likely your truck has been converted to in tank lift pump. The OEM in-tank pumps are excellent but you still need to have a lift pump fuel pressure gauge.
Gauges/monitors are pricey but they will save you time, money and stress.


As was mentioned, these are great trucks but are far from perfect and have numerous weak points.
The perfect truck has yet to have been built.
If you bought a 2004 Powerstroke or 2004 Duramax you would have bigger issues. :)
I'm a Ford guy, but in 2004 a Powerstroke 6.0L was already the worst engine ever...
I bought a 2004.5 Cummins in 2004 and never looked back.

Many folks have been dissecting, analyzing, modding, improving these 3rd Gen trucks for nearly 20 years.
There is a ton of info on this forum.
Do you still have your OEM fan clutch? I read that the main thing is replacing that bearing on the clutch pulley. I rotated mine before going down this rabbit hole and noticed it was a bit noisier than I’d like.

I haven’t gotten to the fuel system yet. I bought a replacement filter for the oem housing to hold me over while I research filters and lift pumps. You are saying for a low hp stockish setup you like the oem in tank over a fass or similar?
 

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Yes the factory in-tank pump works fine for stock power. Put better filtration on it and leave the pump stock.

I also put a thermostatic (all mechanical) fan clutch on my 04 and it worked great, again towing heavy with big hp on an otherwise stock cooling system in the rocky mountains.
 
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Do you still have your OEM fan clutch? I read that the main thing is replacing that bearing on the clutch pulley. I rotated mine before going down this rabbit hole and noticed it was a bit noisier than I’d like.

I haven’t gotten to the fuel system yet. I bought a replacement filter for the oem housing to hold me over while I research filters and lift pumps. You are saying for a low hp stockish setup you like the oem in tank over a fass or similar?


I do still have the original electronic fan clutch on my 2004.5 truck with no issues. I wrapped up the fan clutch wiring and really secured it many years ago.

The best drop in fuel filter in the OEM 3rd Gen fuel filter cannister is the 5 micron Baldwin PF7977. No other drop in filter is better and even the Baldwin is not really adequate.

I'm one of the few that don't like the frame mounted, over priced FASS and Airdog external fuel pumps.
I have had an external Walbro pump for 12 years or so with no issues. Plus the Glacier Diesel air horn mounted fuel filter.
If you already have the in-tank fuel pump, add a lift pump fuel pressure gauge and it will tell you if it is working properly. The in-tank pump has proven deadly reliable and can support 500RWHP without issue.
You can read all about the FASS and Airdog revisions and failures over the years on this forum!
 

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The best drop in fuel filter in the OEM 3rd Gen fuel filter cannister is the 5 micron Baldwin PF7977. No other drop in filter is better and even the Baldwin is not really adequate.
True

I'm one of the few that don't like the frame mounted, over priced FASS and Airdog external fuel pumps.
I have had an external Walbro pump for 12 years or so with no issues. Plus the Glacier Diesel air horn mounted fuel filter.
Same here, not into Fass/Airdog myself. I used a DTT gear pump on my 04 and it worked well for me, If I ever need more supply than the stock 09 pump makes I will probably use a GDP gear pump.
 

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I called dodge for the radiator and water pump. They said the water pump is $303. Yep three hundred bucks!
I got quoted like $330 for a Cummins water-pump at a Dodge dealer, and that was pre-covid bucks by like 3 years!
5 years ago, it was a $160 pump at Cummins or good retailers like Genos, so $183 sounds fair. This IMO is one place I wouldn't skimp, no matter how many tools you carry and how easy they are to replace!

Nice looking truck, better pics than you shard on that "other" forum! LOL
 
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Though it steers pretty well and no visible play is present in the tie rods or ball joints, I’ll be doing the front end as well. I was liking that the Carli ball joints are lifetime, but my cousin says I should just save my money and get EMF. Not sure which brand tie rods I’ll get yet, Moogs have been hit or miss on the last couple projects.
Your $, but I wouldn't even consider jumping on replacing steering linkages and bjs on a good driving truck with no visual play and tires wearing good (presumably?).
IMO, MANY of the "front end issues" on these trucks are fabricated by repair shops.
Almost 190k on original components on the 07 we sold last year (steering box got replaced early on with a reman unit form Nappy, back when some reman parts were good apparently). New owner has been racking up high miles daily, including hauling a big TC all over the country and has yet to touch the front end. Guessing he's in the 210-220k range now for miles. I had 1 axle u joint go out around 150k and replaced both of them and both unit bearings pre-emptively (in hind sight, Ida greased the unit bearings and left them in, but I was thinking the next 150k miles, not selling it as soon as we did)

Lift pump, do you have an in tank pump? Can't be many of the early 3rd Gens still running around with the original engine bay LP. I wouldn't swap an OE in tank LP for a Fass or Airdog if you gave me one free and paid me to change it. You can fab up a 2 micron filter setup cheap or drop $200 on a premade one. Add that after the OE fuel filter and call it a day with the fuel system unless there are issues, IMO.
 
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You are buying too much at Napa, they are the most expensive around. Stick with O'reilly's or Rockauto name brand stuff. What is the price on the Murray? Buy your Fluids and oils at Walmart, Half the price of Napa.
 
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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
You are buying too much at Napa, they are the most expensive around. Stick with O'reilly's or Rockauto name brand stuff. What is the price on the Murray? Buy your Fluids and oils at Walmart, Half the price of Napa.
I’ve put quite a few vehicles together using local auto parts retailers, online retailers, along with buying from the oems. I try to stick to oem as much as possible. During my last couple of projects, I’ve noticed a decent decline in the consistency of the quality of these local auto parts store parts. Unfortunately, not even the dodge dealer can tell if their parts will be chinese until they are in their hands.

Napa used to have a reputation for having the most oem grade parts. Now it’s a crap shoot. That being said, I’m returning the fan clutch and water pump. I’m buying the oem water pump from genos and reusing my existing fan clutch on a new hub bearing.
 

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Plastic used to be a curse, in the 60s, when it came from Japan. Now I say... WOW, genuine plastic! I haven't had any problems with plastic impellors on commercial pumps. They are better in some cases. Bell & Gossett came up with plastic impellors in the 70s and I gladly switched. Keeping coolant additives up is important .
 
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