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TECH SPECIALIST
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Oh man what a bummer, I'm really sorry to hear this. Well I can only add I knew I would be going to a Meziere pump with an 8 blade, anti cavitation, axial flow impeller one day, and glad I have no issues so far other than I expect it won't keep up with demand on the hottest days under full throttle conditions, but, we will soon see! I have my hills and routes all planned out for the testing, just need to see 120 deg heat!
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Yeah but how often are you full throttle for and amount of time? I looked at the blades on the Gates pump on Rockauto.com and compared them to the pics I took of the e-pump before the install, I dont see them being much different other than the e-pump has a closed mounting point of each blade to the drive plate, which should flow better than the gates I was looking at.
 

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Discussion Starter #382
That would be towing up hills I guess where you'd see extended 3000 rpms, and also worst case scenario for a head gasket failure. So I think the elec pumps do flow more @ idle and low rpms due to the impeller does have more surface area on the blades. Good eye on catching that. The OEM pump starts to take over and pass the elec pump around 2K and up. I'm guessing they desighned the OEM to be run below 2400 to 2500 rpm except for short bursts of high rpm like passing because the pressure on the hoses and gaskets goes way above normal after that.
 

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Discussion Starter #383
Also want to add while doing the testing for coolant pressure I had a "coolant bypass" hooked up and set to pop @ 25 psi and still I was seeing 50+ psi with the OEM pump. But, if you pay attention there is no need to run over 2500 rpm with the torque these engines have drive it like a Diesel not a gasser!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #384
It's all about quality. Cheap electronics will burn up and crap out faster than a cheap water pump. Now the question is which parts are readily available at any parts store in the country?
So you're assuming cheap electronics...why? The company has been in business for 50+ years and has a stellar reputation.
 

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Discussion Starter #385
BTW I have a New Summit pump for sale in the pic, it was damaged and I can't figure out how to reassemble, and the cover is cracked, but someone may want to use it for spare parts. $20.00 plus shipping and it's yours.
 

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BTW I have a New Summit pump for sale in the pic, it was damaged and I can't figure out how to reassemble, and the cover is cracked, but someone may want to use it for spare parts. $20.00 plus shipping and it's yours.
Wow your pump was bad. Maybe summit pumps don’t hold up. Mine was just the wiring. How did it get damaged
 

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Discussion Starter #387
Wow your pump was bad. Maybe summit pumps don’t hold up. Mine was just the wiring. How did it get damaged
Not the pumps fault, I bought an extra, and dropped it or something and took it apart to check it out now I can't get the cover back on, or should I say the brushes...I'm assuming the motor is fine, just the housing cover is damaged.
 

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Discussion Starter #388
To the guy that said his pump is making noise. If you're the guy that said he used an impact chisel to take the pulley off it's probably why it's making noise....:unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter #389
Something really strange happened recently, and it turned out to be related to my electric water pump. The pump was running when parked and draining the battery. It took me a few days and cost me a new battery. It all started with welding a bracket to the frame rail, and then the battery was dead the next day! I tried charging them but no luck, they would only hold 5 volts, so I bought a new battery and installed it, and truck started. Next morning battery read 6.5volts DEAD as all heck! So, I was at wits end trying to figure out where the drain was coming from. Finnaly after recharging the new battery AGAIN the next morning battery was again dead, but, I heard a strange noise from the engine barely audible and I recognized it instantly as the water pump barely limping along. I went to check the switch, and it was in the off position. So, what was causing the pump to run? Well, I checked for shorts everywhere and finally found a loose wire on the back of the switch. That seems to have fixed it. What really happened? I still don't know, but it is running fine again, and battery is holding strong at 13 volts!
 

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Discussion Starter #390
So, I have at least one theory now, the pumps speed controller will turn the pump on after shut off to allow the coolant to continue to circulate as well as run the fans until it reaches 185 deg or so. Maybe it's possible I shorted something out inside the controller while welding, and it turned the pump on and left it on? hmmm, I will be for sure watching this, as maybe it reset itself, or ? It's probably a good idea and I normally do disconnect the neg battery cable when welding, but forgot this time.
 

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Discussion Starter #391
Just to add so far this summer I have been running a 1/2 restrictor in the thermostat housing so the engine warms up faster. Well I can see I need to go bigger since it gets hot also. I still have a 3/4, and 1" restrictor to use on the hottest days, and I will be testing them this year when it gets really hot!!! I still haven't tested the Meziere 10 amp 8 blade pump that I expect to be using for the life of the truck if things go as expected.
 

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Discussion Starter #392
Upgraded to the 1" restrictor and went for a drive 110 deg no fans I got maybe 10 miles combined city and hwy. I didn't get far before it started to get hot 215 and climbing. If I can't keep temps under control with the fans on, the next step will be a bigger pump. I did expect this to happen, but needed to prove it.
 

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i cant see the radiator being able to keep up without additional airflow, think about it, the amount of air flow thru the 2 grill openings is what maybe half of the rad surface?... in those temps it gets even tougher to shed the heat.

the only other thing you could try is to divert airflow from the bottom to the zero flow areas. would require duct work to get that done, then if you have an AT, space becomes the next challenge.

with your fan setup your also blocking airflow thru the core. could pull the shroud and go to a simple low current fan setup as a backup. remember that with the shroud your probably developing a high pressure zone in front of the radiator.... which brings to mind an ah ha moment... do you have the rubber flaps used to relieve that pressure?
 

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these flaps...

 

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On the way to work I started thinking about the issue of having high pressure on the front side of the radiator and a couple of things came to mind... 1 is you could try to form a box between the CAC/trans cooler and the radiator above the lower cross member. this would prevent any air escape from the sides of that region and force flow thru the radiator. It will spin the fans without the flaps (I think). and #2... I will soon have a garage to set up the fan test chamber again and intend to have a look at this issue since I also need flaps. Would want to determine how many would be needed. So how do I figure that out??? Setup the chamber and simulate (to a point) the airflow into the front of the shroud and measure the out flow. Would use the 2 volvo fans I have as spares to force air into the front, or use one of the large house fans I have that move a ton of air into the front of the shroud. Should be able to measure the flow into the shroud and compare it against the outflow.

Fans are holding me back for improved mpg... still only averaging low 22's every tank. The one fan that is connected runs near 100% on low a lot now that it is warmer. Zero cooling issues with just the one fan.
 

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Discussion Starter #396
My fan shroud has 16 of those rubber flaps, but I guess it needs the fans on to help pull air through. I kinda figured that, but wanted to prove it first. I'll try going again today with fans on, supposed to be in the 100 teens if it still gets too hot, then time to swap motors.
 

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that shroud was part of the fan kit right? I'm wondering if the airflow needs to be stalled a bit to help with the heat transfer... could be tested by taping a few of them closed
 

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Discussion Starter #398
True, it's all a matched set with the exception of the water pump, that's why I'm thinking more pump is needed. I had no issues when temps were below 90 deg at all. I just found the cutoff point for reliability I guess. The problem is we have a lot of 110+ deg days here. But most of my trips a very short anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter #399
Today handles this crazy heat fine with the fans in the mix with the exception of a long upgrade it was slowly climbing into the teens, so I'm not recommending any long steep mountain drives or towing in this heat. Interestingly I temp checked the radiator core and it was only 120 deg, so I'm betting having an inline pump mounted at the radiator exit into the block will solve all issues, and that it's related to not enough block pressure, or not a strong enough flow to pull/push the coolant through the head etc. the other pump I have will literally pull the coolant from the radiator, and then push it through the block, and that I'm thinking will be the key in these elevated temps.
 

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Discussion Starter #400 (Edited)
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Update... Well, it's been a long time, 1 year, 400 posts and replies... I knew this day was coming, and frankly hard to wait, but I feel I have all the data I need from the Summit electric pump, and recently another member here steve05ram360 has his pump although a different brand showing signs of letting go from bearing noise/failure. I feel it's time to move on to what I hope is my last experimental pump. As you can see the impeller design is different, and quite impressive with 8 blades instead of 5, and a larger motor to drive it. It is an axial flow, anti cavitation design, and I will be using the same variable speed Pulse Width Modulator to control the pumps speed and all other functions of the cooling system.... fans, thermostat, etc. Wish us luck as we plunge into this new frontier of design and function for our beloved Cummins powered trucks. I expect this pump to have a higher block pressure, and be able to more readily respond to the needs of a non stock 700 hp motor. I do not consider the Summit pump test a failure, and for a stock motor should do fine for daily driving duties, but not with elevated HP or elevated temperatures combined with towing etc. Which is pretty much what I was told by many in the beginning. The Summit pump performed well in temps as high as 115 deg heat in traffic around town etc. More importantly these new pumps from Meziere come with an unlimited miles guarantee, with special bearings and seals to live a long life in a hard working motor. The downside to this pump is going to be the price @ $600 to 700 depending on model! Yeah, I know, waaay up there, but if it works, and I never have to buy another, it's a win in my book.
 
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