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Discussion Starter #242
Looking at that picture my eye instantly see's the limited wrap on the Alt pulley and draws a straight line to the PS pump. I really don't think it's going to be a problem since I now drive living below 2000 rpm's. I will check it though for ne1 else that wants to try my hair brain ideas. lol
 

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That looks like worse belt wrap than gators.

I was more thinking about a smooth idler that pushed the belt down.


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Discussion Starter #244
That looks like worse belt wrap than gators.

I was more thinking about a smooth idler that pushed the belt down.


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When I had it apart I already did a layout of the bolt hole locations. I would probably add a spring idler pulley like you said to push down if I see it getting slack after accelerating it might get some slack in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #245
Ok, we checked it blipping the throttle from 2 to 3k and the belt is rock solid...it does not move at all... these belts rotate so slow, there just isn't much centrifugal force acting on it, even by letting off the gas fast does nothing to it to create any slack or bounce.
 

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That looks like worse belt wrap than gators.

I was more thinking about a smooth idler that pushed the belt down.


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thats his motor...
 

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Discussion Starter #247
We're all waiting on pins and needles here to see what kind of mileage improvement you get since you're the MPG guru here!
 

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Well time will tell... I ordered the belt & tensioner from RockAuto and should be here next friday. I am curious though as to the benefit of removing the fan pulley as it just sits there. The idler pulley, not so much since it spins for ever when off the truck ( well at least the steel one did). I also think this pulley

89556

would drop right in on the upper idler pulley with no mods but maybe a slightly shorter belt. ($45 @ Rock auto). It is plastic and should be super light, maybe even lighter than the AL one I put on.

The weather has turned cooler here these days so peak mpg #'s may not happen for 9+ months or so. I'd expect 21~22 every tank as it sits. FWIW, I did realize my airbox baro sensor had been reading low which was pulling back timing some. This also made me realize that the correction for it needs a tweek. Have a slight timing rattle when pressure drops to 14.5 & below. Easy fix and will have it installed tonight (I hope)...
 

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Discussion Starter #249
The fan pulley is on the stiff side on mine, even when packed with new grease, and the disc that it mounts to is very heavy, the whole assembly weighs 9 lbs without the pulley.
 

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Discussion Starter #250
Also I ran into another idea with a dual outlet pump like I will be using in the future because it's a more reliable pump you could create a bypass by splitting the return flow. One line goes back to the block, and the second line back to the thermostat housing to go through the radiator again before returning to the block. That's what I would recommend for extremely heavy use AKA towing etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #251
So, the next item seems to be the HP losses to power steering. Asking around to my racer friends and reading other forums there are a lot of guys that claim by taking the PS belt off before they make a pass at the drag strip is netting them 2 to 3 tenths of a second off their timeslips. Maybe an electrohydraulic combo would net some MPG gains as well.
 

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So, the next item seems to be the HP losses to power steering. Asking around to my racer friends and reading other forums there are a lot of guys that claim by taking the PS belt off before they make a pass at the drag strip is netting them 2 to 3 tenths of a second off their timeslips. Maybe an electrohydraulic combo would net some MPG gains as well.
big concern with that is the brakes... no pump, no brakes. Maybe if the tasks were split into 2 pumps...
 

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Discussion Starter #254
I was thinking more along the lines of keeping the OEM pump, but turning the pulley with an electric DC motor. But, that's interesting non the less. Those Aussies...
 

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Discussion Starter #255

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Discussion Starter #256
Still doing testing on my PWM, I noticed yesterday after shutting off I waited to see how long the "after run" circuit would power the pump and fans, and just like it says in the Manual it shuts off when the coolant temps reach 175*...Nice. So far everything is working as advertised.
 

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I think it would be great but if the factory pump flows around 3-4 gpm @ 1500 psi then it will take between 2.6-3.5 hp motor.

A 12v dc motor rated at 3hp is 2200 watts!


From what I can find the hydroboost seems to requires around 2-3gpm.


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Discussion Starter #259
That link you posted about the Ultimate Power Steering elec pump got me thinking, since I want to upgrade to the 08+ pump anyway. That's a lot of $$$ though!
 

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Discussion Starter #260
I got a used 08-9 pump on ebay for $80.00 same one they're selling @ DPP for $819.00
 
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