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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The process of going with an electric water pump and fans yielded some interesting ideas.

First off I removed the fan, and OEM water pump to reduce drag, and tidy up the front of the engine.

Part of my reason for doing this was being disabled, and bored... it took me several years to get done a little at a time. The other reason was too many people said don't do it, it will never work, and you'll be sorry. That's all I needed to hear...What happened next was unexpected. I had a lot of extra belt wrapped around pulleys that were no longer doing anything but spinning. So, I was able to remove 3 extra pulleys.... I just needed the right sized belt to compensate... so, with some careful measuring and 3 custom length belts and trips to the auto parts store later I finally had it. The new belt is 4' ft shorter lol, and it reduced some Nano drag on the crank, I hope. I hope the belt doesn't slip, but it has at least 120 deg of wrap on all pulleys.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Just wanted to add before starting this project I upgraded several parts to handle the extra electric load. 1. Mean Green alt. 2. 2 yellow top Ultima Batteries re-located under the bed. 3. Complete re-wire with heavy gauge primary, alt feed, and ground wires with Military lugs, and load center tray.

Any questions, comments, concerns... bring it on!
 

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I would be interested in seeing pictures of your battery setup. What is this load tray you speak of?

Also I see a fleece billet fan pulley in one of your photo bucket pictures. Did you ever run that with your stock fan? Did you have to have a shorter belt? Their website says you MAY need a shorter belt.

EDIT: Just noticed that the picture with the fleece pulley has the electric water pump so my second question isn't really applicable.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I would be interested in seeing pictures of your battery setup. What is this load tray you speak of?

Also I see a fleece billet fan pulley in one of your photo bucket pictures. Did you ever run that with your stock fan? Did you have to have a shorter belt? Their website says you MAY need a shorter belt.

EDIT: Just noticed that the picture with the fleece pulley has the electric water pump so my second question isn't really applicable.
Yes, you need a smaller belt because of the water pump and fan pulley is smaller as well. The billet pulley is meant to be run without a fan. Wait, maybe not. I guess you could still use the fan. it would be a shame to cover up such beauty though!
 

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Since you don't have the resistance of a fan or a water pump I bet less belt wrap on pulleys will be fine. If you did have trouble I would bet it would be on the crank first. Maybe in a tight spot making the powers steering pump work while the AC was on? I guess you'll find out and let us know.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I would be interested in seeing pictures of your battery setup. What is this load tray you speak of?



Also I see a fleece billet fan pulley in one of your photo bucket pictures. Did you ever run that with your stock fan? Did you have to have a shorter belt? Their website says you MAY need a shorter belt.

EDIT: Just noticed that the picture with the fleece pulley has the electric water pump so my second question isn't really applicable.
Load center is just where I ran the lead wire off the batteries up to the engine bay connected to a solid copper bus bar rated @ 600 amps continuous load. From there I just ran a small wire to the fuse box, starter motor, and alternator, and the rest can be used for dozens of accessory hook ups.
 

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I did this to a HEMI race truck.

I had rules to follow to stay in a class of racing. To "free" up power I converted to a electric fan and electric water pump. It made a huge improvement, mostly on launching. The engine could span the RPM range a lot easier.

I have "thought" about doing this with my Cummins. I've decided to not do it, mostly for reliability reasons. I'm not sure if would make enough of an improvement on a torquey engine with a much lower red line. On the race HEMI, I would hit just over 7000 RPM. So from ~700RPM to 7100RPM is a large range. The quicker the engine would go from idle to shift point 7100, the better. However, with a non race Cummins, you only have ~700 to 3100 RPM. A much smaller RPM range.

I'd be interested in how you perceive the improvements. Example, easier leaving a light, or faster shift points..




On the belts. I did research on belt contact. You'll note some belt driven devices have 3/4 pulley contact, and other may only have 33% or 50% contact. If its a high strain device, like an AC compressor or alternator you will note 75% contact with pulleys. Most cranks have a very high belt contact. Look at other engine belt routing, you start to see a common design on contact patch.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I realize it might not work if the belt slips I'm ok with that. it's just something I wanted to try before putting it all back together.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Well, I started it up to check for a squeaking belt, and nothing @ start up, and no noise when shutting off. Also, the longest part of the belt I was worried about bouncing, or snapping, runs dead straight, and perfectly true! Probably thanks to a fresh belt tensioner, and new belt.

Also the first thing I noticed was how smooth it was running with the much shorter belt, and less drag.
 

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Seat O meter for take off, and lie O meter for mileage.:wink2:
what if you logged calc load over a stretch of road with CC on for both before & after? (f you do this, find a landmark to disengage CC at repeatedly, then the data can be aligned correctly and evaluated)

with a heavy truck, you may not feel SOTP changes which may lead to a skewed review. As an example, when I did my 2nd rev of the 2nd air dam I was running immediately i felt like the truck was heavier. So I wanted to put data to it and used the method I mentioned and tested all 3 conditions, none, 1st version & 2nd version. That data clearly showed the 1st version was beneficial over both of the others and provided data that confirmed my initial feel that the truck felt heavier with added drag using the 2nd version of the air dam.


Graphed the data looked like this... (viewers of this graph, dont think that warm air soley increased calc load with negative results... you would need to look at the thread where it was initially presented)

 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Pump is in, and waiting coolant. I might add an idler pulley to the alternator if I detect any slipping, but so far all is good.:grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I ran across an interesting article that pointed out something I never considered about the efficiency of an electric fan and shroud. Since the mechanical fan is driven off the engine and the engine moves when accelerating, hitting bumps etc., there needs to be a gap between the blades, and the shroud. Sometimes a big one, as in 1" inch or more, where an electric fan the blade tips run very close to the shroud thus making them far more efficient. Also the beauty of post shut down cooldown with fans running. The under hood temps on any turbo engine have to be pretty high after shut down.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
What have you learned with throttle response, engine load and mpg changes?
I really have almost zero miles yet, I'm still working on getting the wiring secured, and routed. I'm no electrician, so it was a little over my head to do relays, and override switch's and all hooked up. I have 2 toggle switches set up so I can turn the fans on/ off with one, and the other to let the thermostat control them.

I can tell it has a slight increase in power since I did a lot of deletes at one time. Removed water pump, fan pulley, and 2 idler pulley's. Most people when they go electric they still use the OEM fan pulley, and all the idler pulley's, and just remove the fan, but those pulley's create resistance on the engine also, so I found a way to bypass all pulley's that weren't attached to something, IE crank, AC, alternator, and power steering. It took me several try's to get the right belt length, so a big thanks to my local auto parts guy for being patient and exchanging belts for me! I think the belt I ended up with is 82.5" vs 125".
 
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