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Discussion Starter #1
Howdy, I've owned 3 Duramax's (2 LB7's and on LBZ) and barely tinkered on a couple PowerStrokes, but have never owned or even driven a RAM

I'm looking into 2011 - 2018 2500 or 3500 CCSB's, 4x4, obviously Cummins, and I'm just trying to get my facts straight on the intricacies of each year and what to avoid/look for in each. Ideally I'm looking for an optioned out or mid trim one.
I love my Duramax's, but the main reasons I'm switching is to A. - get something with a more up to date/plush interior for my lady, B. - little more spacious inside cab, C. - cut down on misc. repair items that come with a nearly 20 year old truck.

A few people have suggested I go 2014 + for what I assume is the "better" emissions system, is that a general consensus?

One of the primary reasons I'm upgrading is interior. Are there any years to stay away from for interior issues? How do these trucks hold up after 100K + miles on 11+ model? I know the 2nd and 3rd gen's had a bad wrap for interior durability and the joke was the motor would outlive the truck. I also know the past few years Ram has really improved the quality, but what about 11-18' years and longevity? My mom had a 2015ish Dodge Durango and that thing squeaked and rattled like crazy after only 20-40k miles.

Can someone set me straight on the coil spring vs leaf spring? When did coil spring start or become an option, and has leaf spring always been an option all years? I know all 3500's will be leaf spring. I'm leaning towards leaf spring so on the rare/few occasions I do tow heavier (15k ish) I don't get swaying with the track bar swinging the axle back and forth during it's travel. Just trying to narrow down years for coil springs so I know what to look for.

Transmissions, it's either the 68RFE or some 3500's had the Aisin with the HO option right? I don't really plan on modifying the truck performance wise, at most an exhaust and maybe a tune, so I assume the 68RFE will be fine? An Aisin would be nice but I'm not going to let that limit my search. Will the 68RFE be a million mile trans under stock power or do I have to assume it's going to take a dump at some point? I'm looking at ideally trucks with under 100k, but will consider 100-150

Speaking of 100-150k miles, I hear there's an emissions service that is mandatory at 67,500 - what happens if someone skipped that? Should I pass on the truck?

And finally, is the base 6.7 motor exactly the same between 11 and 18 with the only difference being emissions? Same turbo/head gasket/injectors etc?
11-12 had EGR, CAT, DPF and NOX Cat?
13-18 has EGR, CAT, DPF and SCR?

Any other significant things to know or look for? 4wd systems?

Thanks in advance for any help or input
 

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2011 Ram 2500 4x4 6.7 68RFE 4 inch lift
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Bought my 11’ 2500 2 years ago, SO (standard output) 68rfe, 4x4 CC with 172k. Now has 188k. Interior is leather, it’s a Laramie Longhorn. Emissions is EGR, Cat in down pipe, NOX and DPF. I’m in Commiefornia, so smog is every 2 years. Pass each time without issue. It has 650lbft factory, moves along really good with factory 3:73’s and 35’s on a 4 inch lift. 13’ and up went to DEF and SCR and don’t use the EGR as mush as the 12’ and down. 13’ and up get better fuel mileage, but if ya get a 12’ and down, there are ways to make it get better mileage and durability. I have no complaints, the family has room now compared to my 99’ and at 70 mph it’s turning 1500 rpm’s, it’s quiet, ac works great and I like the Navigation too.
 

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Your gonna miss the ride quality going to a ram !
I made the switch like your thinking of. The ride quality is the only thing I really miss. I've upgraded to "softer" front springs, and aired my tires way down to improve the ride. It deffinitly helped.
The interior quality and exhaust brake is what sold me on the ram. It's a great rig

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the feedback so far. I plan to go with a Carli starter setup and at least 35s, so I’m hoping that will make up for the ride.

One thing I think I forgot about was front suspension, when did they start the radius arm? Carlis website has two different year breaks, did radius start in ‘13 or ‘14?
 

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Thanks for the feedback so far. I plan to go with a Carli starter setup and at least 35s, so I’m hoping that will make up for the ride.

One thing I think I forgot about was front suspension, when did they start the radius arm? Carlis website has two different year breaks, did radius start in ‘13 or ‘14?
I believe the 3500 started in ‘13 and the 2500 started in ‘14
 

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I believe the 3500 started in ‘13 and the 2500 started in ‘14
Yup but as usual there have been one or two trucks on here that didn’t follow the rule.
 
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Well, I went from a 15’ 2500 Laramie to a new GMC 2500. Just the opposite of what your trying to do. I can tell you the interior space on the new GM’s is more spacious than the Rams. (mega cab might be the exception)
 

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Better emissions... I guess it is supposed to be better in the ‘13+ models. I had a ‘15 and pretty sure I was having DPF issues around the 30k mark. My power and MPG’s dropped. But “the computer checks out” so the dealership never looked deeper into it.

Coil Springs.... ‘13+ on the 2500’s have the coil springs.

68RFE if you are towing within specs, driving like an adult, and doing the maintenance usually are fine. There is a programming bug that I found, and the last ‘18 I drove still had it. In my ‘07.5 I had a +60 HP tune and never had a problem with my 68RFE. With the Aisin (3500 only) you will get the HO engine. Maintenance intervals are shorter, and from what I understand a little more harsh if you drive more empty vs loaded.

The 67,500 interval probably includes the replacement of the Crank Case Ventilation filter, cleaning of the EGR cooler and system. I don’t think it would be the end of the world, but you might get a check engine light if it gets really plugged. Happened to me with an ‘07 Duramax with 285k.

But between ‘13-‘18 the engine is pretty much the same with some programming tweaks through the years. Also during this time all SRW trucks have the 3.42 gears. Honestly it was one of my biggest disappointments moving from my ‘07.5 Ram to my ‘15.


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The Chevy and Gmc definitely has a better, smoother quieter ride. I have a 2008 Silverado 3500 dually and a 2018 Ram 3500 dually. The Chevy feels like it will run laps around the Ram. Also you have to get used to the transmission shifting feels a lot different. The Allison just shifts and it’s done the 68rfe unlocks the converter shifts and then locks again revving up in between (shift flare). Allison feels more connected and tight no shift flare. Going straight from one to another the Ram transmission doesn’t feel like a good lasting strong transmission although it might be. The Ram feels more stable pulling a load to me. And the exhaust brake is probably the best you can get in a pickup. Ram definitely feels slower than the Gmc. My first time towing with the Ram before it was really broke in I thought to myself what the hell did I buy. Definitely got better after break in.


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2011 Ram 2500 4x4 6.7 68RFE 4 inch lift
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Well when ya have independent front suspension, it’s going to give a smoother ride.
 

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I'd go with a '13+. Better front suspension/steering, emissions, coil spring rear and improved cab and interior. The Uconnect system on the 13+ trucks is so much nicer then the 11-12 trucks.

But with that said, if the right deal came up on a '11-12 came up by no means would I ignore it.
 

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From my limited time with a ‘19 Chevy, the somewhat “softer” ride is easily outweighed by the Dodges I’ve driven having less sway, body role, less give to wind/aero, and the Dodges not feeling like they were about to fall apart.
 
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2012 Ram 2500 EzLynk 2.0 CSP 5 by CTT Tuning, 5" tback exhaust, gdp intake horn, revmax valve body
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Howdy, I've owned 3 Duramax's (2 LB7's and on LBZ) and barely tinkered on a couple PowerStrokes, but have never owned or even driven a RAM

I'm looking into 2011 - 2018 2500 or 3500 CCSB's, 4x4, obviously Cummins, and I'm just trying to get my facts straight on the intricacies of each year and what to avoid/look for in each. Ideally I'm looking for an optioned out or mid trim one.
I love my Duramax's, but the main reasons I'm switching is to A. - get something with a more up to date/plush interior for my lady, B. - little more spacious inside cab, C. - cut down on misc. repair items that come with a nearly 20 year old truck.

A few people have suggested I go 2014 + for what I assume is the "better" emissions system, is that a general consensus?

One of the primary reasons I'm upgrading is interior. Are there any years to stay away from for interior issues? How do these trucks hold up after 100K + miles on 11+ model? I know the 2nd and 3rd gen's had a bad wrap for interior durability and the joke was the motor would outlive the truck. I also know the past few years Ram has really improved the quality, but what about 11-18' years and longevity? My mom had a 2015ish Dodge Durango and that thing squeaked and rattled like crazy after only 20-40k miles.

Can someone set me straight on the coil spring vs leaf spring? When did coil spring start or become an option, and has leaf spring always been an option all years? I know all 3500's will be leaf spring. I'm leaning towards leaf spring so on the rare/few occasions I do tow heavier (15k ish) I don't get swaying with the track bar swinging the axle back and forth during it's travel. Just trying to narrow down years for coil springs so I know what to look for.

Transmissions, it's either the 68RFE or some 3500's had the Aisin with the HO option right? I don't really plan on modifying the truck performance wise, at most an exhaust and maybe a tune, so I assume the 68RFE will be fine? An Aisin would be nice but I'm not going to let that limit my search. Will the 68RFE be a million mile trans under stock power or do I have to assume it's going to take a dump at some point? I'm looking at ideally trucks with under 100k, but will consider 100-150

Speaking of 100-150k miles, I hear there's an emissions service that is mandatory at 67,500 - what happens if someone skipped that? Should I pass on the truck?

And finally, is the base 6.7 motor exactly the same between 11 and 18 with the only difference being emissions? Same turbo/head gasket/injectors etc?
11-12 had EGR, CAT, DPF and NOX Cat?
13-18 has EGR, CAT, DPF and SCR?

Any other significant things to know or look for? 4wd systems?

Thanks in advance for any help or input
I have a 2012 Laramie and honestly, the interior sucks. Majority of my trim pieces are superglued on and everything rattles. My buddy has same truck but a 14' and the interior is leaps and bounds better. The screen and evic is far better, trim pieces are nicer, overall a better looking interior. If you can go for the 2013+ interior. Still a great truck and the issues I listed are VERY minor but just thought id let ya know.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have a 2012 Laramie and honestly, the interior sucks. Majority of my trim pieces are superglued on and everything rattles. My buddy has same truck but a 14' and the interior is leaps and bounds better. The screen and evic is far better, trim pieces are nicer, overall a better looking interior. If you can go for the 2013+ interior. Still a great truck and the issues I listed are VERY minor but just thought id let ya know.
That perfect feedback, thanks for sharing!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I think I have the coil spring rear suspension still mixed up, so after 2013 it was an option to have coil springs or was it the only way 2500s came?
 

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Starting in 2013 all 2500's have rear coil springs unless it has the optional air suspension, then you get air springs. No leaf springs available in a 2500.

All 3500's, single rear wheel and dually's, have rear leaf spring. Also available with optional rear helper air springs
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Starting in 2013 all 2500's have rear coil springs unless it has the optional air suspension, then you get air springs. No leaf springs available in a 2500.

All 3500's, single rear wheel and dually's, have rear leaf spring. Also available with optional rear helper air springs
Okay thank you for clearing that up. I misunderstood and thought you could get a 2013+ 2500 either way. Good to know.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Another question, with electronic shift on the transfer case, it looks like the NP273 ended in '12 and the BW 4446 started in '13 to present?

What does "4WD LOCK" mean, is there an electronic locker option on these trucks like the Super Duty?
 

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From my limited time with a ‘19 Chevy, the somewhat “softer” ride is easily outweighed by the Dodges I’ve driven having less sway, body role, less give to wind/aero, and the Dodges not feeling like they were about to fall apart.
Mmmmkay...yeah them new Chebbies are like total rattle traps...lol
 

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Also you have to get used to the transmission shifting feels a lot different. The Allison just shifts and it’s done the 68rfe unlocks the converter shifts and then locks again revving up in between (shift flare). Allison feels more connected and tight no shift flare. Going straight from one to another the Ram transmission doesn’t feel like a good lasting strong transmission although it might be.
^This. I know the 68rfe is a reliable unit, but good gawd. It's almost like Dodge engineers were like, "Hey lets design a GOOD transmission this time" and someone from marketing came in and said "Make it shift like a wet bag of dog sh!t or people won't be able to identify with it as a Ram truck!"

I have a 2016 68rfe truck, I've had many other Rams and a couple Dmax trucks, and I'd take the 5 speed Alli from my 02 Dmax, with a bad torque converter, defective nsbu switch and a leaky tail shaft over the "perfectly" operating" 68 in the current truck. There are workarounds and it's better when towing than driving empty, but if you're even remotely prone to fixating on how the trans shifts, you'll be best off to walk past the 68re trucks!

Otherwise, I wouldn't put one truck clearly ahead of the other in most any normal type of use.
But I would be shooting for 2015 - up Ram. No dual radiator. Prefer 3500 for the leafs, but the coils aint bad. probably want to bag it sooner than equivalent leafs if hauling weight regularly.
Up to the chassis change in 2013/2014, the "4th Gen" rams were essentially a 3rd gen with new sheet metal and updated interior. And while an improvement over late 3rd gen interior, newer = better here too, IMO.

Dmax, I'd be fine with any year except the CP4 years.
 
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