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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
im really thinking about rebuilding my tranny its starting to make noise somtimes...im really trying to get into sled pulling and it would just be nice to start with a fresh tranny i know the getrag isnt the best for that but thats what i have and i have to make do with it for now but any ways im trying to find out how hard would it be to rebuild this tranny? ive found rebuild kits for around 300$ and have lots of tools and acess to a machine shop ive rebuilt old 4 speeds and my harley davidson 5spd but would just like to know of any secrets or tricks or suprise's of the getrag? so if you have any info or input lets here it....thanks
 

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This is a touchy trans to setup. If you do not have a manual covering it. Get one. The 92 FSM does not have the getrag rebuild in it. The 93 manual does.
 

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My 93 Getrag had been gone thru once before I bought it and the truck only had 78,000 miles on it. I went thru it 3 months after I got the truck because the mainshaft pilot bearing went bad and 33,000 miles later it had a major failure of that same bearing and it trashed the imput and syncro assy. So that makes three failures within 113,000 miles!

IMHO, save your money and convert it to an NV4500 like I just did and don't look back!

Oh, and the NV4500s are easier to work on than the Getrags.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
This is a touchy trans to setup. If you do not have a manual covering it. Get one. The 92 FSM does not have the getrag rebuild in it. The 93 manual does.
FSM? do you think it could be done in a weekend i have a car lift and tranny jack? a shop in my town said 1200 for a rebuild and 2500 for a exchange i dont have 1200 bucks or else i would consider it
 

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FYI, the 93 manual has both the G360 and NV4500 in the same manual. That was the first thing I bought after I got the truck.

The G360 has some rather strict requirements on mainshaft assembly preload. It's not that hard, ya just have to pay attention. Yeah, if you got all the parts you need, you can do it in a weekend if you hustle!

Also, watch the syncro assys as they have some little springs in there with a bunch of tension on'em and they are VERY easy to loose! I think I have one in the next state cuz it sure ain't in my shop! Extra two days getting a replacement!

Standard Transmission and Gear in Ft Worth, Tx has your parts at a decent price. Some stuff however is getting hard to get because they haven't been made in so long. That was one reason I decided to go the NV4500 route.

Good luck!
 

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It could be done in a weekend.

I saw one taken apart at Smoke Over Peru #3 and put back together at SOP #4 a year later.

The guy wasn't in to big of a hurry and didn't want to do it by himself. :rof
 

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OMG Yes watch out for the flying little springs and balls... LOL Been there done that. It can be done in a weekend pretty easy. Thats when I did mine it lasted about 60k miles at 900ftlbs befor it exploded and got an NV4500.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
im sure im going to run into some problem..its just my luck but im gunna go for it prolly do it in the next couple of weeks and also try to get a south bend in there:$:if i can get it all back together it should be pretty sweet:peelout
 

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There is a 4X4 NV for cheap in the dodge parts section of the diesel garage.
 

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Other than being careful about preload be extra observant of the input shaft bearing. If it is worn, so will be the race which is built into the shaft. It is necessary to replace the input shaft if there is any wear on the race. This bearing, its lubrication and cooling is the one big defect in an otherwise great transmission.

It is really necessary to overfill the getrag by about two us quarts. This will keep this overworked bearing cool. It is also important to keep one's rpms up or to avoid heavy torque when the engine is turning below 1500 rpms. Usually you will hear or feel a rattle when the 'rag is unhappy. If you ignore these quirks a short life is the result. Pay attention to these issues and the getrag will outlast the NV. Use the recommended 5/30 oil so that sufficient lube will penetrate to the wear surfaces. Gearlube will cause premature wear because the preload on the bearings makes it hard for thicker lubes to cool the wearpoints.
 
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