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Discussion Starter #41
Be sure to get reputable AN fittings if going that route. I purchased -8AN for a non critical project, which is supposed to be 1/2". The hole diameter on the male end was 0.420. That was closer to 3/8 than 1/2". Needless to say, they were all returned.

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I had Vibrant in mind but hadn't had had a chance to look very hard yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
So which side of the stock auto cooler is inlet and which is outlet?
 

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Discussion Starter #43
After looking around at diagrams I think the inlet of the stock cooler is the line that ties to the drivers side of the cooler.

I've ordered all my fittings. I went with jegs fittings and hose. I have them on my bypass filter and my coolant filter and I haven't had a problem with them. I looked at vibrant, the fittings weren't drastically different in price but the hose was. I could have done vibrant fittings with jegs hose but why mix and match?

I ended up going with standard AN stuff between the pump and cooler and push-lock for the suction and return. The push-lock is a bit cheaper and rated for 250psi but I wouldn't feel right about it without clamps or something.

It's going to be a fairly expensive little project but it could be done for less if you used regular fuel and oil rated hose with barb fittings and clamps.
 

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This is definitely a to do project.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Got all my parts but some overtime came up at work so I'll be postponing this a little longer.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Here is the pump and filter setup as well as my broken shift boot. The rubber must have cracked some time last winter because I know there was not fluid seeping out the summer before that. I am going to refill with Amsoil manual transmission and transaxle 75-90. I will do a little driving before I get the pump wired up so it will be a direct comparison of fluids. The fluid in there now is the mobile delvac synthetic transmission fluid 50 with a little bit of Amsoil syncromesh added because I had shifting issues.
IMG_20190909_112004_1568201817133.jpg MVIMG_20190910_161333_1568202197217.jpg IMG_20190906_162800_1568201899445.jpg IMG_20190910_095245_1568201941100.jpg IMG_20190910_095506_1568202015306.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #48
I am replacing it with the standard boot.

Suction comes off the bottom the return is the line on top. The plate I have on the other side has a hole the correct height for the extra quart fill. They are TDS PTO covers. I plan on filling it to there, filling the filter, running it for a while, then checking and adding a bit if I need.
IMG_20190911_134129_1568231100361.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #50
I have everything installed short of wiring the pump. I misjudged how much fluid I would need so I had to order more. I had enough to fill the transmission and half of the filter. None of the lines or the cooler are filled yet. I will just not run the pump until I get some more fluid.
IMG_20190910_091924_1568260498607.jpg IMG_20190911_182327_1568260665044.jpg IMG_20190910_131932_1568260535746.jpg MVIMG_20190910_160931_1568260578948.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #52
I really like them. The one on the passenger side has the corrected height fill port for the extra quart of fluid. The one on the driver side that I did all the modifications to was a blank and it's only $45 IIRC. if you were planning on doing a cooler like this I would definitely go with these over something like the fast coolers. There's a significant cost difference and I don't think you get all that much cooling out of bolt on type coolers.
 

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I took some photos of my setup. I have a 34 row exchanger with 1/2 an fittings and lines. My exchanger is over the driveshaft. The oil gets pulled from the drain hole and it gets returned on the fill hole.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
I took some photos of my setup. I have a 34 row exchanger with 1/2 an fittings and lines. My exchanger is over the driveshaft. The oil gets pulled from the drain hole and it gets returned on the fill hole.
That looks good and out of the way. What did you use for a pump? Is that an 4500 or 5600? The drain and fill must be pipe thread? The drain on the g56 is directly on the bottom so I didn't want to have anything hanging down. There are also not pipe thread. I'm sure I could have figured it out and used the fill for the return, but the plate was easy and it was coming off anyway.

Also the bar mounted high above your driveline, is that for a traction bar setup?

How long have you run that gear vendors setup? Do you tow with it? How much power are you running through it?
 

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That looks good and out of the way. What did you use for a pump? Is that an 4500 or 5600? The drain and fill must be pipe thread? The drain on the g56 is directly on the bottom so I didn't want to have anything hanging down. There are also not pipe thread. I'm sure I could have figured it out and used the fill for the return, but the plate was easy and it was coming off anyway.

Also the bar mounted high above your driveline, is that for a traction bar setup?

How long have you run that gear vendors setup? Do you tow with it? How much power are you running through it?
I used a standard transfer pump. I have one for my engine pre-oiler (attached below) and I also have another one for my auxilary fuel tank pump as well. It also has a spin on filter plumbed in as well.

Makes sense on the drain plug if it is on the bottom. I would have done the same if that were the case for me.

The truck is a 2003 2500 but heavily modified. I swapped in a 6.7 cummins with an Eaton FSO8406a (much more stout).

The bar above the drive line is a ladder bar. Traction bars are Junk. I am putting 1000 hp thru my axle and I don't get any axle wrap and I also go off roading and I still get full articulation compared to a traction bar setup.

I have had the gear vendors for a couple years. I haven't broken it so far. I have towed an rv with it but I never engaged it while towing. I usually use it when I am unloaded cruising on the freeway. I get 1650 rpm at 70mph with it in the highest gear. Overall I like it but I am worried I could break it if I am too hard on it. My truck weighs 9300lbs with me in it and I can spin my 37inch tires going 70mph. Again, it hasn't broken yet, but i am careful when I use it.
 

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Discussion Starter #56 (Edited)
Oh yeah, I remember the Eaton now. Does it run warm without the cooler?

I've got some traction bars on mine that I didn't get the angles right on so they don't let the suspension move like it should. I've learned a lot since then and it's on the to do list to change them. I think if I get the angles right it should allow proper movement and articulation. If I was going to be doing serious off-roading I would go with a ladder bar setup. I've got a little Toyota for that though.
IMG_20190822_063643_1568509568339.jpg

That's a pretty sweet rig you've got.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
My initial impression is that this Amsoil MTG runs cooler than the Mobil Delvac synthetic 50 with a quart of Amsoil syncromesh added. (To help with tough shifting) without the cooler pump running.
The weather is significantly cooler though so it isn't that much of a direct comparison. If it will warm again I will be able to tell for sure.
Another thing to note is that it seems to be shifting very well.
 

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Do you have any concerns of the oil temps being too low?

What about condensation buildup internally?

What temp does your pump kick on at? (sorry, I think you mentioned it earlier)
 

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I spy special fasteners , Tcase adapter plate and a giant Hiem suspention thingy .

NOT your average truck !

That truck might deserve its own feature thread !!
 
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