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Discussion Starter #1
Working on a 93' D250, Automatic. The Original "broom" and a number of the fuseable links went full send/meltdown with a side of smoke. Removed links and burned wiring and swapped in a Safety Hub 150... Not sure what caused multiple fuesable links to go (seemingly at once, or which one went first, and took out the others). The harness in this location was pretty brittle/cracked, and there was a rats nest of wiring under the dash that included multiple alarm systems piggy backing off each other, and various other stereo and aftermarket lighting systems installed by the previous owner, some without fuses. Any way after chasing out wires, repairing damaged/smoked wires and toning the wiring to make sure there was continuity, all wiring seems to now be repaired.

The truck will not start using the key, it does start and run using a remote starter...

Repaired wiring running through ignition switch. After fixing wires, found no power was getting through ignition switch, so that was replaced. Got no start after replacing ignition switch, figured next in line would be the starter relay... replaced relay and still no start. Relay clicks when key is turned to "Run", get all the normal wait to start lights, but no starter turn when key is turned to "Start". Like I said truck will start and run if I use my remote ignition switch, and shuts off when the key is turned to "off". I'm at a loss, at this point...

Is it possible the starter is bad? Did the PCM get fried when the Fuesable links melted down? does the remote start works to turn the starter only because its getting full battery Voltage? Is there a way to test the starter solenoid? Am I missing something? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sorry for the delayed reply. I checked the neutral switch. Fixed the wiring that had melted to the side of the trans for the OD. That's why this is a head scratcher... there's gotta be something else I'm missing.
 

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Don't know if you have the wiring diagrams or not or what your knowledge/skill level is, so please bare with me.
There are 2 connectors on the transmission. The 3 pin is for N safety/backup lights switch. The 2 pin is for OD.
At the back of the engine there are 2 large connectors. The black one carries the neutral safety wire.
From there it goes to the starter relay coil on the left fender. This is different from the starter solenoid that is on the starter.
This completes the ground circuit for the relay coil.
From the relay coil it goes to a connector under the dashboard near the brake pedal. This connector is intended for the clutch, but for an automatic it should be jumpered.
From there it goes to fuse #3 in the fuse block.
Through the start side of the ignition switch.
Through a fusible link and back to the battery.
This completes the positive side of the relay coil circuit.
Next the starter solenoid circuit.
From the solenoid to a 2 pin black connector near the battery.
From the connector to the starter relay contacts.
From the contacts direct to the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Forest Cat, its much appreciated, gonna give it another try next weekend. Think its something I need to give a break. Like I said wiring's in rough shape, and there's probably something I have missed. Ill update if i get it figured out.
 

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If it starts with a remote starter then the starter is good, the PCM is not your problem. Luckily the PCM does very little on these 1st Gens and if you have a 5 speed it could be tossed. Possibly the ign switch could be bad.
 

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The previous owner of my 92 also butchered the wiring. 8 years later I'm still chasing gremlins. A lot of bypass surgery.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Got her sorted out. Thank you guys for your input/ help. I ended up re toning all wires on staring circuit. All were good, as before. So I started checking voltage again. No voltage to the brown wire going to starter... put in a new neutral switch, truck started on the key,, but would not start after being turned off... started looking at grounds and ound one loose, the others dirty and coroded. Ground going to engine block appears to have been spliced at some point... Took a jumper and grouded the new neutral switch to engine ground and truck starts everytime... Nuetral swithch was part of the issue but the grounds are likely the bigger issue. Gonna likely replace grounds and redo batery cables since those are also pretty rough. Thanks again.
 

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Bad grounds are the biggest cause of electrical issues on these old trucks. Glad you got it fixed.
 

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Got her sorted out. Thank you guys for your input/ help. I ended up re toning all wires on staring circuit. All were good, as before. So I started checking voltage again. No voltage to the brown wire going to starter... put in a new neutral switch, truck started on the key,, but would not start after being turned off... started looking at grounds and ound one loose, the others dirty and coroded. Ground going to engine block appears to have been spliced at some point... Took a jumper and grouded the new neutral switch to engine ground and truck starts everytime... Nuetral swithch was part of the issue but the grounds are likely the bigger issue. Gonna likely replace grounds and redo batery cables since those are also pretty rough. Thanks again.
Hey man if you want to redo your fusible I delete mine and I have a video about it
This is the link on YouTube
 
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