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Discussion Starter #1
So I've come to the conclusion I need some help, here's my situation, I have an 01 2500 24v 2wd just hit 250k last week (motor is stock never had a programmer on it, just upgraded torque converter for towing ) and I one day I was coming home and as I had stopped at a light the truck started to sputter, I knew I wasn't out of diesel becasue I had 1/2 a tank. I pull off to the side, kill it and pop the hood and go turn the key and my lift pump doesn't come on, now when I got this truck it had a fass drrp( or whatever it's called ) mounted to the block and the people before me had it in the stock lift pump plug and it was working, but a week after I got it the lift pump went out. Yay not even a week and it's dead.. so I pull the lift pump and the wires look like they were burnt right though where the wires go to the pump. (weird right?) So I open the lift pump up, fix the wiring issue, plug it back in and it doesn't come on... so I take the wires and touch it to the battery and the pump kicks on, so I have electrical issues just want I needed.... so I run the positive wire to a key ON fuse and the negative to the battery, hook it up, bleed lines, and the truck runs again! Well that set up worked for about 10k miles(more or less) and then the fass took a dump (pump that went out at the light). So I buy a raptor 4g 100gph pump a few days ago and do everything the instructions say and when it's all done I turn the key on and the raptor doesn't come on... I run the positive and negative wire from my old pump and it kicks on when the key is on just like the old fass..... okay so that works, now I know that the stock lift pump plug is no good. So when all is done I crack the lines to bleed the air and now another problem comes up (it's been a long weekend for me). The injection pump isn't pumping fuel, but it IS getting to fuel to #4, #5 and I'm not sure about #6 casue I can't get to it, but #1 and #3 have no fuel coming out of it (can't get to #2 casue of intake horn). So that's the wall I'm at now, the lift pump is getting fuel to the VP44 but with the lines cracked fuel is only coming out of 4 and 5 but not 1 and 3 when you turn the motor over... no codes or check eng. lights... could it be an electrical problem inside the ECM?? Or is the VP done for even thought it's not that old?( the guy before me put a new Vp44 in 1k miles before he sold it to me, I have the paperwork so it's legit ). I would really appreciate if anybody knows what in the world is going on and if this has ever happened to anybody else. Thanks
 

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Maybe , maybe and maybe.
First the original lift pump is powered directly from the ECM and after market ones should not be and a relay used. The ECM and non operating lift pump(s) are the root of your problems but at this point, yes the ECM and VP could both be bad.

First pull codes with scan tool rather than the key.

Then:
Does the Wait to start light come on immediately with the key to ON every time?

Also the lift pump circuit could have been damaged in it from running the after market lift pumps directly. Check fuses and relays under hood.

ECM and lift pump have to be operating first for the VP44 to work correctly or be tested. So pull codes with scan tool and check WTS light.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Okay I'm gonna have to get a real scan tool from a buddy of mine here this week but I do have a cheap code reader and it gave me the code PO230 but that was the only one, and yes the WTS does come on as soon as I turn the key to on position, thank you so much for the information you gave me and I'm really hoping I can get to the bottom of this!
 

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0230 is reflecting your wire and voltage issue. Trace that back to the ECM and rewire the lift pump with a relay triggered by the ECM but supplied by a separate hot relay. That is where to start, maybe not all but is where to start.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you so much for the help! Did as you said and it worked, now that that works could it possibly be just the fuel pressure that needs to be adjusted? I know that the vp needs a certain pressure before being started up(it's like 8 psi right?) So could it possibly be that the vp isn't getting the right pressure to push the fuel to the injectors?
 

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No the VP does to need a specific pressure to start. It just has to have fuel flow to it. Lift pump does not have to even be running to start. But it needs 10+ pounds running for good lubrication and cooling in the VP.
But if the lift pump was not running it would cause it to die when running. If it was bad for a long time it damaged the VP too.
You got the lift pump running, will it start now? If not try bleeding injectors 1,3 and 4 at least. 10 second cranks and at least 1 minute rest for starter. They should start squirting around fitting, not dribbling or bubbles. If that is all you can get, even on just some cylinders, after several attempts, the VP is bad. Don't give up too soon. Close them as they squirt and it should start firing and run.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No the VP does to need a specific pressure to start. It just has to have fuel flow to it. Lift pump does not have to even be running to start. But it needs 10+ pounds running for good lubrication and cooling in the VP.
But if the lift pump was not running it would cause it to die when running. If it was bad for a long time it damaged the VP too.
You got the lift pump running, will it start now? If not try bleeding injectors 1,3 and 4 at least. 10 second cranks and at least 1 minute rest for starter. They should start squirting around fitting, not dribbling or bubbles. If that is all you can get, even on just some cylinders, after several attempts, the VP is bad. Don't give up too soon. Close them as they squirt and it should start firing and run.
So this is what it's doing now, I'm only getting fuel to #4 injector, like nothing to any other injector, at this point I have no idea what's going on with it and its causing me a huge headache, help would be extremely appreciated at this point and maybe a 12 valve instead of this 24 lol
 

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How much time have you cranked on it with the other injector lines cracked? If you have done substantial cranking and that is all you are getting you likley have internal timing failure in the VP. It is toast and was probably casued by a bad lift pump at some point. Being a mechanical failure, sometimes it does not throw a code. Sometimes it will throw the P0216 VP44 death code, we call it. If it does throw the code it is most always accurate and has similar symptoms. The timing piston is not sending fuel to some/most or all cylinders.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
-Update-

Well it's been awhile since I've been able to get on here and here's an update, so I bought a new vp44 installed it, and still no start...at least its giving me a code -p1689- no communication from ecm to ip. At this point if I dont figure it out here pretty soon I'm gonna get rid of it so I can go find a different truck (prob a 12v) casue its beginning to be a major pain to deal with.. could it just be a bad connection somewhere?? Hopefully I can get to the bottom of this and all help is greatly appreciated
 

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Did you clear codes and see what comes back. How did you bleed the VP44 after installation?
 

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Yes I cleared the codes and the same code came on next time I tried to start it, and we bleed it right up by the injectors on 1,3,4 and still no fuel, and lift pump is working great with plenty of fuel to fuel filter
 

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You got no squirt from 1 3 & 4? How many times did you crank it over for at least 10 seconds when bleeding? Have you tried to hot wire the VP? If not, search that here and try it. If When bled and hot wired it starts and idles it is probably the ECM not powering it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah nothing from 1,3,4. And we tried cranking it over atleast 5 times and nothing, I will do the hot wire test tomorrow to see if it's the ecm. But I do know that when I checked the plug going from the ecm to the ip that it had power to the ones its supposed to, and pin 5 (the one that turns on when your shut the truck off) worked like it was suspsoe to, I dont know if that matters when trying to figure this out but I put a multimeter to it and it had 12 volts to the plug when key is on
 

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First try another 10 cranking sessions with those lines cracked open. First charge batteries.
 

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Crank 10 seconds on charged batteries and let rest 2-3 minutes between.
 

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Alright will do today when I'm off of work, hopefully it will finally work today is what I'm hoping for, also thank you so much for all of the help and info
 

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So had the batteries ready to go and did the crank for 10 sec and sit for 2 and after awhile it was wanting to fire off, at one point it ran and I had control of the gas and everything but my dumb self left off the gas pedal thinking it would idle and it died... tried it again after and was getting really close to starting but the batteries started to get kinda weak so had to call it a day to let it charge up throught the night. Hopefully it will be back up and running this week.
 

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That is strange. Once it ran for 10 seconds or so it should have smoothed out and ran of its own. Either it is not getting fuel from the lift pump, or you have electrical issues, or you got a bad rebuilt VP44. Where did you get it? Crack a fittinf on teh line into the VP and bump the starter and see if fuel sprays out around it good? Then close quickly to prevent fuel all over.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I got the pump from thoroughbred and its getting fuel up to the injectors, we had 1,3,4 cracked and it was squirtin out of there like its suspsoe to when it ran for the while we had got it it was definitely working right. When it did start I did the computer reset trick thing before by holding down the trip button and turning the key on then letting it do its thing. It was after I reset the computer that it had ran then died after I let off the pedal
 

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I do not know about any computer reset that way. I know you can pull codes like that is all. My 99 does none of that. I suggest that from now on you use a scan tool and don't mess with that. What exactly does it do or say? Why did you do it?
 
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