[HAMMER101]

REPLACED THE SHUT OFF AND RELAY BECAUSE THE LAST ONE BURNED UP AND THE NEW ONE ACTS THE SAME WAY WILL ONLY WORK IF YOU PULL IT UP.

HAMeelout

 

[Dual K20s]

Have you checked the blue activation wire from the starter? That and the relay are the problem 95% of the time. The solenoid itself rarely goes out.

 

[Motorsport Diesel]

There are 2 relays, one controls the solenoids pull up action, the other holds it up.

 

[Dual K20s]

My little one doesn't connect to anything, never has since I bought it

I thought the hold was not wired through a relay?

 

[illflem]

There is no relay for the hold coil, it just goes though the key switch. The smaller relay next to the solenoid lift relay is for the fuel heater.

Sounds like you have a wire problem. Blue wire at the battery could be corroded under the insulation where you can't see it or the small brown wire at the starter is disconnected/dirty.

 

[HAMMER101]

It was the Blue wire at the battery from when the shut off took a chit. thank you very much.

Ham:thumbsup

 

[thescrapman]

Im having a similar problem. I replaced the solenoid & relay but wont work unless I push the rod in manually. I have been looking for this blue wire that a couple people have told me about but I dont have a blue wire. Can someone please, please, please post a picture of this I havent been able to drive my truck for a week & its killing me....Thanx everybody

 

[Joe G.]

If you have a '98 I think there is a relay in the PDC instead of a blue wire. If not, then the center of the last three pictures in this article show the blue wire: http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-tech-articles/58777-joe-g-s-fuel-system-writeup.html

 

[thescrapman]

Mine is a 96 and the link is great but what I noticed this morning is when the key is in the on position there is a liquid boiling around the positive terminal between the post & the clamp the two fuseable links that are connected to a brass eyelet got so hot that I almost got a 3rd degree burn from it. The arm in the coil will only lift if I push it in manually on the old & the new one. The arm will stay in till I turn the key off. I am certain I have a dead short but dont have a clue where to begin to look, I dont know a whole bunch about electrical trouble shooting.

 

[Joe G.]

If you had a dead short it would blow the fusable links. Have you removed the battery cables and all wires from the postitive post of the battery and cleaned them all? If you have not done that you need to do it. Make sure that all the connectors are bright clean and dry before putting them back on the battery connector bolt.

 

[thescrapman]

I have found the problems. I do have a blue wire it was so dirty I couldnt tell it was blue until I scrapped it. I did the test like the link showed & it worked. the other problem is a bad cell in the passenger side battery, that it what was causing the driver side to boil & the lights to go out. Thats probably what shorted out the link. I have one more question, because Im horrible at electrical problems. Do I have to replace the fusable link with a new one & if so where should I get one? Or could I just splice a new wire on? I understand the risk of not using one is if I ever have a problem again I could fry that $92 relay I bought for nothing. Thank you everybody for all the help you have know idea how much it means to me. If any of you are ever in "The Burgh" & need something jsut hollar I will be there. Stephen

 

[Motoracer597]

i am having the same problems as everyone else but none of my gauges work and the wait to start light never turns on. the truck will run for about 10 sec then die.Thats if i by hand lift the solenoid up. What is wrong please help diesel drags are on sunday!!

 

[Joe G.]

Did you read the writeup referred to in post #8 above?