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I'm installing a new VP44 from Bluechip and I'm wondering about getting a fuel press Gauge I would lie to go electric
What brand would be recommended -So far I like the one offered by Pricol I think that was the manufacture
Any Thoughts
Also I aready have a BD low press warning system would that be enough
 

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Autometer, ISSpro, Dipricol, Those are some main ones!
 

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I like the di pricol optix the best out of the big 3.
 

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Isspro or DiPricol
 

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I'm installing a new VP44 from Bluechip and I'm wondering about getting a fuel press Gauge I would lie to go electric
What brand would be recommended -So far I like the one offered by Pricol I think that was the manufacture
Any Thoughts
Also I aready have a BD low press warning system would that be enough
First off don't bother with the low pressure light... They always come on to late. The light normally pops on about 3-5 PSI which is way too low in pressure. Minimum requirement is 10 PSI at least...

Myself I love the diPricol gauges because of the display is marked in 1/2 PSI increments (fuel pressure and boost). Really easy to read on the fly.

http://mopar.cumminsforum.com/personal/2002/bombs/gauges/low-pressure-light.jpg

I've got the Cummins low pressure light and it trips at 3 PSI... Rather worthless I say. But it does get my attention when it does pop on...
 

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anybody got a write up on how to install one of those fuel press gagues? do u tap the actual fass blue fuel line or the VP directly like off a test port or something?
 

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hey marlin tell us how your fuel mileage does. bluechip claims to gain mpg's and ive heard the HRVP's get worse
 

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get a taped banjo bolt and use it on the vp44 where the line from the filter connects. i am cheap and do not like to spend money. you can get a oil pressure gauge install kit that has all of the fittings and six foot of line for $7 at any part's place it comes in either copper or plastic line i buy most of the gauges surplus for between $4 and $7 if you buy new a gauge listed with geno's for $19 is a good one it is 1 1/8 inch and can be mounted in the console area down by the shifter in about 5 minutes it states the gauge is for test purposes only but that is because it is listed by the high dollar gauges. the vp44 will run very well with no fuel pressure just not very long before destroying it . it uses fuel for both cooling and lube do not let the psi drop below 4 under any condition. unlike the p pumps and cr pumps the volume of fuel required has greater increase as the load goes up. the best way to monitor the filter is to look at the gauge every once in a while if under load the presser drops more than normal watch it closer and change before it reaches 4psi, the dirtier a filter is the more efficient it filters so on cp3 pumps it will filter a huge amount of stuff a new one will miss but on the 44 you can not let the flow get below the 4psi pressure level. one other thing if you go cheap and not pretty some gauges do not have built in snubber and the needle will vibrate connect the gauge up first if it does add a needle valve to the install
 

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get a taped banjo bolt and use it on the vp44 where the line from the filter connects. i am cheap and do not like to spend money. you can get a oil pressure gauge install kit that has all of the fittings and six foot of line for $7 at any part's place it comes in either copper or plastic line i buy most of the gauges surplus for between $4 and $7 if you buy new a gauge listed with geno's for $19 is a good one it is 1 1/8 inch and can be mounted in the console area down by the shifter in about 5 minutes it states the gauge is for test purposes only but that is because it is listed by the high dollar gauges. the vp44 will run very well with no fuel pressure just not very long before destroying it . it uses fuel for both cooling and lube do not let the psi drop below 4 under any condition. unlike the p pumps and cr pumps the volume of fuel required has greater increase as the load goes up. the best way to monitor the filter is to look at the gauge every once in a while if under load the presser drops more than normal watch it closer and change before it reaches 4psi, the dirtier a filter is the more efficient it filters so on cp3 pumps it will filter a huge amount of stuff a new one will miss but on the 44 you can not let the flow get below the 4psi pressure level. one other thing if you go cheap and not pretty some gauges do not have built in snubber and the needle will vibrate connect the gauge up first if it does add a needle valve to the install
awesome. thanks man. so if i buy the issopro fuel press gague or something, the one that goes to 40 psi is fine right? and i just use a banjo bolt instead of the origonal connector pieceto replace it. i thought u tapped into the actual fuel line going to the VP:confused013:
 

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if i where you i would go manual, they are more accurate and theres only 2 wires to connect plus they are cheaper and instead of an isolator you can use a needle valve
 

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if i where you i would go manual, they are more accurate and theres only 2 wires to connect plus they are cheaper and instead of an isolator you can use a needle valve
really? i am thinking that route. i got a mechanical boost and i like it but what are the plusses to an electrical fuel press? and whats a needle valve or an isolator?:doh:
 

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Most Fuel Pressure kits will include the tapped banjo bolt.
 

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I personally like the dipricol optix gauges and get the electronic, less hassle no fuel in the cab and they are so much nicer
 

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ok i got a question i need answered guys, does it matter if i plug the ground and or power or the gauge wire in any order in the back of my fuel gague?? it doesnt tell where to plug the ground or power in on the back here..
 

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if i where you i would go manual, they are more accurate and theres only 2 wires to connect plus they are cheaper and instead of an isolator you can use a needle valve
Not true. Electric is just as accurate. There is no way you can physically react fast enough to make any argument of one over the other based on accuracy or speed. Use either one. Plenty of members have had problems with isolators. Needle valves can, and should be used with both gauge types.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/139367-fuel-psi-gauge-isolator-question.html

Most Fuel Pressure kits will include the tapped banjo bolt.
Not exactly sure what you mean, but none of the fuel pressure gauges have the bolt. Ultimately make sure it has the bolt or order one separately.
 

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fuel pressue guage

be carefull with having 10psi+ fuel in the cab,, stinks, burns, and will get many hours of s#^t from the .......... (what do you call that person with the shorts and those nice bumps,, hmmm some say wife some say ........) so be nice to yourself ,, get the electric....
 

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bumpin it b4 class, any ideas as to if the wiring order matters?
It appears that you have a Performax Fuel Pressure gauge. It needs an Electronic Signal Processor (ESP) to function (ISSPRO #R82000). The sensor, as well as power, ground & dimmer all plug into the ESP, and the gauge itself is just fed by 3 wires from the ESP (7V, ground & data).

It sounds like you wanted the standalone version of the fuel pressure gauge, our EV² line. The equivalent gauge to the one you have pictured is R13055.

Back to the original question, I prefer electronic gauges for fuel pressure, it's easier to install and less potential mess.

Regards,
Michael Pliska
 
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