I recently purchased a 2004.5 Ram 2500 crewcab cummins with 4:10 gears and would like to add a mod to increase mileage and a little extra power will be a bonus. Research points to Quadzilla M3 Max Mileage, Edge Mileage Max, and Diablosport predator U7130 ranging in price from $150 to $270. I am a "rookie" to all of this, 70 years of age, will not be racing, but will pull a travel trailer at approx 8,500 lbs and really need good sense advice as to the best approach for my needs. Your help and experience will be very much appreciated.
I purchased my truck with the goal that it do the most for the least: longest life at lowest cost with highest reliability. To that end, on any truck establish the mechanical baseline first:
- All book service performed
- Perfect (not just good) wheel alignment
- Tire pressure according to load (empty different than loaded or towing)
- No brake drag
- Eliminate steering wander
- No CAC leaks
Changing rear gear ratio to 3.42 would provide real benefits (and is on my list). Those 4.10's on yours just kill any idea of good mpg and aren't needed for such a light trailer either in Texas or Florida (even with the occasional trip out West).
For towing set up your WDH with the help of a certified weight scale to get numbers dead-on (FF axle returned to unhitched weight, and RR axle to 60-75% of non-distributed weight with balance to TT axles. TT needs wheel alignment, shock absorbers, wheel balancing, alignment, ideal tire pressure also. Best antisway keeps steering corrections minimal, which counts. Avoid friction bar type).
Other than that:
* Stock spec closed-shoulder highway rib tires such as MICHELIN LTX A/S or BRIDGESTONE Duravis
* Bed tonneau cover
* SMARTY Jr (over modules listed); see mpg spec's per AH64ID -- "With a stock auto I would run SW2 TM2 TQ4 . . . . " --
(if you just have to send money to strangers for a magic box; improve the driver and these boxes aren't very impressive is the point).
Other changes aren't warranted. Driver skill is the item to improve. Highest FE will be from 1,300 to 1,500-rpm. Choose gear first and road speed second to optimize economy, town or country
600F-temps or less
60-mph or less
6-psi or less
* Conventional gauges or SCANGAUGE or ULTRAGAUGE for instantaneous readouts.
* And set up a logbook to record every gallon used. The occasional high or low tank is meaningless. What counts -- the only thing that counts -- is the overall average mpg
. One can break out the info all sorts of ways past that.
Never stop, never idle. No short trips, no drive thru's, combine all errands. Run 5-mph under in town as a maximum, and only accelerate to 5-mph below that
, then drift up to optimized rpm range. On the highway horsepower demand doubles
from 55 to 70-mph, so keep it under 60 as aero resistance skyrockets past that number. Trailer towing only makes it worse.
How "fast" other traffic moves is an irrelevancy. In the land of the free
you might be surprised at how many of the sheeple feel real panic at being left out of the flock by driving a little differently, bleatin' & hollerin' for Jesus that they's gonna get runned over, never noticing that there has always been slower traffic.
Driving for FE pays cash money weekly, monthly and annually thus incentivizing any changes. I can run the highways solo for a conservative fuel cost estimate of 16-cpm or pull the trailer at 26-cpm (for planning purposes; at todays price). Run the numbers you collect and you'll be able to predict fuel costs accurately
. A CTD is a great machine. Overpowered, straight from the factory. Only the kiddies think a 7,000-lb truck should be driven like the fart can Honda they had just previous to it.
My numbers in sig.