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Discussion Starter #1
About a month or so my 96 started having fuel gauge problems and its really starting to bother me so Im asking just to make sure before I go and buy a fuel tank sending unit. I checked at a dealer and its like $98 (thats the only place I could find one)
Usually where my fuel gauge likes to sit is little after half tank. Usually when I put in $50 it'll mess around between 3/4 and half then after a while sits on little after half. Theres been a few times where it sits on half I turned a corner last week and it went to e and stayed there with the fuel light on so after work I put $50 in and went to about quarter tank or so, yes I leave my truck on when I fuel up. But then drove home and let it sit in my driveway and went back in my truck after a while and it went up to about between half tank and 3/4 then drove around for a little and didn't move then the cycle started over where it just started and stayed little after half tank. :banghead:
I tried filling it all the way up until the pump stopped and yes my truck was off this time and turned it on and it took a while and then went to little past full line how it was suppose to then as the fuel went down and down once it hit about 3/4 it acted up and then eventually went and sat a little after half tank like always. But recently when the fuel gets low sometimes it'll at least go to about quarter tank. It reads all weird when I turn corners sometimes also. Someone please help! :confused013:
 

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yep mine did the same thing. was my fuel sending unit. either lift your bed to change it out. of if you have a heavy flatbed, run low on the tank and drop the tank. its a pain if lots of fuel in it. i would probally also get a new gasket for the fuel tank cap incase yours is dryrotted and breaks while your working on it.

Your dealer is charging you a lot for the sending unit. around here it cost 60 dollars.

and nothing wrong with fueling while its running. i do that all the time for years. and we HAVE to do that when we fuel our ambulances at the gas stations.
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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As long as your bed is empty its really easy to just take the bed off. I just took the bumper off, unplugged all the wiring, and unbolted it. 4 guys and it was no problem.
 

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I've had my '96 cummins for a week now and mine is doing the same thing, it dropped like a rock from full to half, than stayed there for the longest. Thanks for the advice I plan on putting on a flat bed and will fix it when I change beds. Oh by the way, I told my wife I payed 4 grand for a cummins 12 valve and 2500.00 for the rest of the truck! She had no comment.?
Texred
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Good to know thanks guys. I have my cat stack and my air tank for my train horns that are in the bed of my truck and I got a 8ft box so that might be a slight pain. Who knows maybe will drop tank, either way glad to know it's for sure the sending unit.
 

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So guess what guys, I dropped my tank and put the new sending unit in, put tank back up and turned the key to the on position to see if it worked and it moved it went
To e with the fuel light on I was like ok it works. Go put $60 in and it still sits on e with the fuel light on and won't move at all from my previous problem!! I just spent $95 on this sending unit what could it be!? Please help
 

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You hooked all the wires up right...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yea I did it just doesnt make any sense how it almost worked better before I put the new sending unit in. I put $60 too so I have no idea how dropping the tank again is going to go...
 

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I'd take the bed off and cycle the new sending unit through full, 3 quarter, half, quarter and empty outside of the tank plugged in ignition on (not running). I did this with my old one and found the contacts on the sending unit wasn't tight enough so I just flipped the little plate on the outside of the sending unit to keep the float arm close to the contacts. I don't remember much else (~6 years ago), but the factory orginal still works with this mod today.

Here's another -> http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-engine/58777-joe-gs-fuel-system-writeup.html
 

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Just did mine 2 days ago and it was just the contacts on the sending unit. Got it all tight and good as new. I took off the bed which was real easy and 5 mins with the sending unit and fixed. Also painted what i could of my chassis while i was there.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #14
so its the contacts inside the tank on the sending unit? Where you plug the blue and red wires in or what exactly?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I went underneath my truck today and unplugged the wires that clip in to the top of the fuel tank because I can access that and the gauge went below e and the fuel light stayed on. Used a little WD and blew in there a little bit to see if there was some dust or anything or maybe lubericate it a little and plugged it back in and it moved slowly back to red mark E with the fuel light on. This is just getting ridiculous there has to be something up I just spent $95 on this new sending unit and took all that time dropping the tank to do it..
 

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I know that I had to have the lever arm that the float is on pointed towards the back of the truck. It could be possible that if you put it in sideways that there is an obstruction in its path that isn't allowing it to float up to the top. Do you remember how you oriented it when you installed it?
 

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I went underneath my truck today and unplugged the wires that clip in to the top of the fuel tank because I can access that and the gauge went below e and the fuel light stayed on. Used a little WD and blew in there a little bit to see if there was some dust or anything or maybe lubericate it a little and plugged it back in and it moved slowly back to red mark E with the fuel light on. This is just getting ridiculous there has to be something up I just spent $95 on this new sending unit and took all that time dropping the tank to do it..
Any resolve to this issue? I just got mine back together after an engine rebuild and I modded my tank a bunch, but I ordered a new $65 level unit and installed it on my custom tank unit because the gauge seemed funky before I tore into the rebuild. Now, the gauge bounces back and forth from chuckleblocked full to dead empty and the light comes on. It does this at random times and never reads the correct level. Any ideas? I am not reall too hot on dropping the tank right now.

New tank unit. Sorry the gauge isn't installed, it goes on the 2 cap screws coming out of the lower portion of the aluminum hex.




Thanks, Greyson
 
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