Cummins Diesel Forum banner

Fuel filters & filtration

4094 Views 13 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  CNYRAM
Researching what to put on for additional filtering, ran across info that said the finer micron filters i.e. 5 um aren't recommended because of the chance of plugging and damaging the hi press pump.

Had been looking at the Fleetguard FS2000 that filters to 5 um (and separates water) but now that doesn't sound adviseable. Back to a 10 um?
Sure don't need to buy or repair that hp pump (!) but want to get rid of as much contaminants as possible.

Have read thru the TDF info, but still not sure I "understand what I know."

I know there are some very knowledgeable folks in this forum, would appreciate info on what's best for our 6.7 setups, esp as far as micron specs on filtering and water separation. Hope to eventually arrive at a Fleetguard setup as they're both performance and cost effective.
thanks!
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
The stock fuel filter was originally 7 micron and it was changed to 5 by Ram because of filtration concerns. I have a 2 micron pre-filter on mine and never had any issues. I made up a in-line kit with a 2 micron and a w/f separator and it works well.
Anybody that says finer filtering is bad needs to have their head examined! Filtering finer is ALWAYS better! Now with the stock lift pump that may be where the concern is.

Chrysler changed filter specs because they went cheap with the common rail in '03 with 10um and were losing injectors, then went to 7um which helped a little and finally gave in and went to 5um. Bosch & Cummins from the start required (and require) 5um, but bean counters got in the way!

I did a raptor pulling through a bf1212 water seperator, through a Cat 1R0750, and a baldwin PF7977 on my '05, changed all of them at 10k just to see, the baldwin looked brand new!

CP3 pumps are pretty solid, some Duramaxes (maybe all I don't remember) don't run a lift pump at all and have the CP3 do all the work. Chrysler lift pumps aren't the greatest but they do ok.

A Fleetguard 5um would be fine. A GDP Cat filter kit would be great, just keep a regular service interval and carry spare filters always in case of bad fuel! Or get a FASS/AirDog and get a better pump with better filtering! You can search for days finding good and bad for both pumps mentioned previously, but it would be your money so it would be your choice if you went that route! I have no idea if that helps but it may be a starting point!

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
See less See more
I run a 10 um rock filter/water sep and 3um filter inline to the stock 5um filter with absolutely no problems. Totally stock fuel system around them and a BD low pressure alarm for the cp3 inlet that trips at 5 psi.
DC sells a severe duty filtration kit for our trucks that's 3 or 4um and the new nano filters for the 4th gens are 3um also so it can't be all that bad can it?
There's dual filter kits out there for around $200 and a diy write up that does the same for around $100.
Bosch does require 5um minimum but also states that anything over 4 microns will cause erosion in the nozzles, so a 3um sounds pretty good.
OK. After chasing my tail in circles for 2 hours I think I finally have all the info for a good setup pulled together that will work with the stock in tank pump and not cost a fortune, and with absolute filter efficiencies, not "advertised" or "factory approved" with no numbers to show what you've really got.

First in line is an FS 1212 filter / separator. 20 microns absolute, 97 - 99% free water and 92 - 95% emulsified water separation.

Then the stock filter / separator which ends up being a 5 micron absolute (is this correct, or is it 7 absolute?)

Then a Cat lr 0750 2 micron absolute fuel only.

All put together by a larger line using larger ID fittings and hose individually sourced
cuz the kits like GDP cost quite a bit more just for the convenience of having
everything come in 1 box.
I'm interested in improving my fuel system also. I'd be interested in parts numbers and suppliers and a detailed write up of what you end up doing.

Thanks.
OK. After chasing my tail in circles for 2 hours I think I finally have all the info for a good setup pulled together that will work with the stock in tank pump and not cost a fortune, and with absolute filter efficiencies, not "advertised" or "factory approved" with no numbers to show what you've really got.

First in line is an FS 1212 filter / separator. 20 microns absolute, 97 - 99% free water and 92 - 95% emulsified water separation.

Then the stock filter / separator which ends up being a 5 micron absolute (is this correct, or is it 7 absolute?)

Then a Cat lr 0750 2 micron absolute fuel only.

All put together by a larger line using larger ID fittings and hose individually sourced
cuz the kits like GDP cost quite a bit more just for the convenience of having
everything come in 1 box.
The Baldwin PF7977 is the only 5um that goes into OEM housing, all others are either 7 or 10. That setup is cash money for you! I went the same way but flipped and put CAT before OEM to keep engine bay clutter down (yes I know not the proper sequence but it works dernit!).

John, here is a link to the write up with pictures I did on my truck if you need some base of where you want to go. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=605296

Raptor 150 Install

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
  • Like
Reactions: 1
I'm interested in improving my fuel system also. I'd be interested in parts numbers and suppliers and a detailed write up of what you end up doing.

Thanks.
Will do!

Will be 1st week in Jan, though. Retiring from my current job in the Vegas area and going home to SE MO, then will put on the filtering.

Going to add in a good filter / water separator mounted on the frame in line between the tank and the oem filter, and install a small micron CAT fuel only filter between the oem filter and the CP3 injector pump.

I'll make up my own line / fittings for the pre-oem separator, and might get the GDP (Glacier Diesel Products) "Big Line Kit" which provides a larger full size 3/8" line from the oem filter to the CP3 inj pump. Will have to get a couple more fittings to insert the post-oem CAT filter in that line.

EDIT: Just discovered there's a restrictive small line from the line on the frame (from the tank) up to the filter inlet. Of course there's a GDP kit for that, too.

http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/product.aspx?pf_id=9852-0509-FIK&rurl=

Here's the "big line kit"

Glacier Diesel Power - Product Detail

Now we're up to $100 for the 2 larger line kits, might have to check out individual fitting and hose pricing. Instead of the kit from the frame line to the filter, might just adapt to the steel line coming out of the tank and put all larger fittings and line thru the separator and right up to the oem\ filter. Summit racing has a pretty good selection, depends on where you are you might find them locally, too.

The first one from the tank will be a Fleetguard FS 1212 filter / separator. (FS denotes Filter / Separator) Spec'd at 20 microns filtering, but most importantly over 90% of free and especially important emulsified water. That will mount on the frame under the truck.

Then it'll go thru the updated oem filter which knocks it down to 5 (or 7?) microns absolute, plus is also a good water separator, then to a CAT 1r0751 filter which is either 2 or 4 microns depending on what you read.

Then from the CAT filter to the pump using the rest of the Big Line Kit which has a fitting to hook up a gauge, and a snubber to dampen the pulses.

Auto Meter AM-3279 fuel pressure snubber-Geno's Garage

Everything is available at Geno's Garage - except for the CAT filter which from what I read is the smallest micron filter available, nothing quite so small from Fleetguard, and maybe that Big Line Kit. That kit is not a bad price when you start pricing individual AN fittings.

The Fleetguard filter head is 142784S. Wix makes one that might be just a little easier to mount to the frame 24770. Link on the below page.

Fleetguard 142784S Fuel Filter Head : Amazon.com : Automotive

Going to talk to them Monday and will get everything lined out with what they can provide, then get the rest (CAT filter, additional fittings, etc)

Amazon.com: Caterpillar 1R0751 Fuel Filter: Automotive

Hope that helps for now.

I guess you need a compression to AN hose barb fitting setup to get from the 3/8" oem hard line coming out of the tank, thru the filter / separator, and back to the hard line.

AN thread - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
AN Fitting Thread Size Chart

Hope that helps - took a LOT of research to get what I would consider reliable info on all the different available filters - you can have "nominal" micron filtering efficiency and "absolute" efficiency which is the one you want to look at. You also also need to keep in mind adequate filter flow so you don't starve the CP3 inj pump. These filters are not far under 100 gph.
From what I've read the stock in tank pump will adequately supply fuel to the CP3 thru this setup. It's not high pressure (something like 5 psi?) but has pretty high flow capacity.
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Macx – curious if you went ahead wit the install? I’ve decided to add additional filtering as well, but DIY is the plan. I just ordered the parts and I’m into for less than $150. I plan to make my own bracket and mount both WS and filter under the truck. If it helps anyone, my parts list is below. I’ll post my lessons learned and pics of the install once I get at it. Figuring out the fitting sizes drove me nuts so hopefully I got all the right stuff!

Question if anyone knows, do I need to bleed air out of lines after the DIY install and before firing it up?

Next question, is it necessary to increase the fuel line size above stock lines that are there for daily driving (light foot)?

Parts List:

From peterbiltparts
3930618S - Fleetguard 2x Filter Heads, $27.43=$54.86
1R0750 CAT Fuel Filter, $15.25
BF1212 Baldwin Fuel/Water Separator $10.56
Shipping $9.50

From Summit Racing
FRA-491104 ½” NPT to 1/2” NPT Nipple/Union to joint two filter heads, $7.97
FRA-100106 Straight Hose End -6AN Hose to -6AN Female Thread, 1 x $7.92
FRA-109006 90deg Hose End -6AN Hose to 6AN Femal Thread, 1 x $16.97
FRA-806006 #6 Series 8000 Push-Lok Fuel hose 6 feet, $21.97 (only used 2-1/2 ft)
RN-800-035 Brass Compression Fitting, 3/8” to 3/8” hose barb, 2 x $9.97
SUM-220649 ½” NPT to -6AN fitting, 2 x $3.97=$7.92
Shipping Free

TOTAL $172.86

Other stuff needed but already in stock at home, hose clamps, nuts/bolts to mount bracket to truck and filter heads bracket, and the steel to fabricate a bracket.
See less See more
You need to bleed the system just as when you replace the stock filter. Two or three key cycles should do it. You'll hear the air gurgling in the tank. When it stops you're done bleeding.
No larger lines are needed for semi stock truck and light footed driving.
I've got the separator stuff, 1st one just ahead of the tank, made up incl the bracket, head, and the fittings.

Got delayed because of really cold temps & wind (garage is full, have to work outside) and schedule - have to leave probly tomorrow Wed 1/29 to go finish out my last job SW of Vegas for about amonth and had other higher priorities like ball joints, fan belt & pullies, deleting and an EGRectomy that I felt were more important for that long trip out there and moving my RV to WY when I'm done, and then coming back home to SE MO. About 5k miles all together, plus maybe ~2.5k miles while out there.

I might not have to go for another week and if that happens I'll finish the separator install at least. Felt that was the more important of the 2 added filters.
Also a fuel pressure gauge hooked to the CP3 inlet to monitor pressure there.

I've got the higher priority items done, have to mount the Edge CTS today so I can mainly keep an eye on trans temps for the "hills" West of Denver and an electric fuel gauge with a snubber banjo at the CP3, and am packing and loading today - taking a mostly empty 20' Cargo trailer with me for moving stuff from Vegas to WY when I'm all done (1 trip with the Cargo, another with the RV). If I hear to wait a week, it's supposed to be decent this weekend so will then cut the lines and install the separator. Bracket is mounted and fittings all put together. Just want to make sure I have a little extra time in case something goes South with cutting the line.

I don't know where the 3/8" line from the tank ends exactly but will eventually make it 3/8" all the way to the CP3, before I start the heavy load towing over the mountains. Also have an external electric diesel specific inline boost pump just in case, runs at the correct 14 psi max with sufficient delivery capacity in case those extra filters hinder delivery to the CP3.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sgt-sp1122/overview/

I guess you can get them at some of the usual local parts stores, too, but they're cheapest at

Spectra Premium - SP1122 - Electric Fuel Pump

Lots less than the high buck "systems" yet should do the job.
See less See more
I would love to hear how this works out.
Unfortunately will now be delayed several weeks - cold and ice/sleet storm, plus had the truck in to check out some kind of rumbling noise just audible from about 45 to 55 mph, was afraid of a rear wheel bearing.

I'll take my stuff with back to the Vegas area (leaving in the AM) to finish out my last job, not sure if I'll be able to continue the rear separator install there in the RV park or not, they get real "nervous" about any spill of any kind.

Safest to figure I'll finish it when I return home. I'll be home for good, then.

I'll be sure to post when I get it all hooked up incl the fuel press gauge, and how the pressure is to see if I need that extra inline pump or not.
5
I finally got around to my DIY fuel filtering kit.

I fabricated my own mounting bracket from 3/16" plate steel and painted it with POR-15 prior to assembly. Like others have, I removed the 2 x driver's seat rear mounting bolts and replaced them with 3" (2-1/2" would probably have worked) bolts then used them to mount my bracket from underneath using 2 x nuts and a single lock washer on each bolt to sandwich the bracket. The bracket slips over the frame rail and filters end up sitting just forward of the fuel tank between the transfer case and the driver's side frame rail. The skid plate (which needs to be removed for install) then provides a bit of protection for the kit. The seat bolts are Grade 10.9 so they were a little difficult to source but I found them locally.

I added a ISSPRO Fuel Pressure gauge on my A-pillar and but the sensor just aft of the CAT filter. It reads about 12psi when idling

Some pics:

The Parts ( NOTE: The Push Lock Fittings weren't compatible with the hose, the correct fitting is listed in my post above)



The Bracket


Mounted


Finished


Guage
See less See more
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top