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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So. Just joined the 6.7 fam. 2014 6.7 3500 SRW Limited. Hi 👋. Love the truck, but I'm trying to track down some tech resources.

The long and short of my issue is as follows:
I smelled burning, electrical burning. Windows were intermittent. Sometimes front, sometimes rear. Now only the front, driver and passenger, work at all.
Driver window master switch had been replaced with a cheap china part. I replaced it with brand new OEM part with auto up and auto down. Problem persists.
Replaced driver inner door module, and ANOTHER master switch from junkyard. Problem persists.
Pulling these switches apart I note on the printed circuit board (PCB) that what appears to be the driver rear window down switch is burning/over-loading. Mostly the same place on every switch. See update #2
Fuse is good, wires inside boots of door jams look good. Disconnecting driver side rear at door jam. Problem persists.
Fuse box looks ok, under steering wheel looks ok. No obvious signs of pulled or torn wires.
This screams (some kind of) bad module or shorted wire

I know people have issues with tight wires on 3rd gens, but have found 0 instances of this on 4th gens. 🤷‍♂️

-vwiv
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Update 2:
Resistance tested every wire in every door harness, front and rear.
Spent 5 hours under the dash hunting down any little sketchy wires with electrical tape on them. All unsuspected of being related, and all grounds were good and clean.
Unplugged and resistance checked all door harnesses. All good. Left all except driver door harness unplugged to re-test master (driver) switch. Problem persists even with all the other doors unplugged at their respective doors.
Appears that the rear windows or rear window lockout circuit gets a huge amp draw when larger of the two harnesses (non CAN-BUS) is connected into the switch, and fries the PCB right away. Pics attached. Could this really be the BCM, or is the BCM only CAN-BUS and would not cause an amperage draw like this? Main harness looks good and testing between the other doors all checks out fine. I'm lost. Shouldn't the fuse protect the hardware, or is the 25A fuse too big to do it's job?

920269


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