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I had a very severe death wobble the other day. I'd like to get everything done or atleast get links. Ideally I'd like to buy everything in 1 shot and upgrade the entire front end, thank you.
2000 3500 ext. Cab 4x4 dually nv4500
 

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I would upgrade to the 08.5+ or 98-99HD steering. BD makes a good 3rd gen style track bar as do several other companies. Got mine off amazon
 

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I did the entire front end on my 97 when I first bought it and it steers as good as my 2016 but it was not cheap.

-synergy steering
-blue top power steering gear box
-DOR adjustable track bar
-DOR gear box brace

And if you need ball joints dynatrac are probably the best made for these trucks
 

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Most DW is caused by play in the track bar. You need 17" wheels for the 08 linkage to not rub the wheels.

Stiff ball joints were much of my steering problems. Mine certainly doesn't steer like a new car but it is acceptable. There is still play in the steering box and the steering feels heavy at the steering wheel but it does track straight and mostly returns to center and there is not much play in the steering wheel - but there is some.
 

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^That's not true, I have the 08.5+ linkage and 16" wheels with 5" back space. Not even close to contacting.

I would suggest the new steering, and a track bar wouldnt hurt if its bad. I used a stock replacement one on my truck.
 

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^That's not true, I have the 08.5+ linkage and 16" wheels with 5" back space. Not even close to contacting.

I would suggest the new steering, and a track bar wouldnt hurt if its bad. I used a stock replacement one on my truck.
I have the 00 stock 16" wheels wheels and the tie rod rubs the wheel. I haven't bothered to look up what the wheel specs are other than to note that they are the stock 16" wheels. They rub. Apparently some do and others don't. If the OP wants the 08 steering, he can look up the wheel specs and note that mine rub and make an educated decision. Sites that specialize in wheels have the specs readily available.

When I had DW, the most prevalent cause was play in the track bar. Some said that they thought there were other causes and still others replaced multiple parts do don't really know what caused it. Im My case, I'd read where the track bar was the/a common cause, confirmed that I had play in the TB and replaced it only. DW went away so was the cause at least in my situation.

Simply replacing the other parts ie tie rods, drag link without the track bar would not have fixed the situation because the DW was caused by the track bar.
 

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Yes Track bar is usually the main problem but you need to check for play in all joints including control arms and ball joints too. Replace all pats that have play and you should be good to go.
 

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After fixing death wobble multiple times on both my truck and our jeep (LJ w/221K mi), we bought a Kevin's Off Road kit for the jeep 3-4 years ago. It's GREAT. Noticed he now also has a kit for Dodge trucks:

kevinsoffroad.com

note: both truck and jeep are stock, not lifted, no oversized tires...
 

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rebuild your track bar with a luke's link kit, they work pretty good and are adjustable.
 

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NO luke's link. That is junk. Metal to metal joints are not appropriate for track bars. They need at least one rubber joint for shock absorption when diff is moving up and down.
 

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i have used luks links. they DO work for about a month. after that they wear, they split along the very hard corners they machine into the housings, and they are BULKY.

if you are going to go the custom route - build your self a new set of bars using 1 ton TRE's. a bit of DOM tubing, 4 bungs, and some TRE's and your set. its not hard to do and there are DIY kits out there for as little as 350. i went this route and it turned out great.

cheap and WAY stronger than luks links: https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/YLINK.html
 

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How would those work, the bar needs to be bent at the ends. Plus, how is that an upgrade from one manufacturers 1 ton TRE to another with the same rating? If you're going to go that route get some 2.5 ton TRE's at least.
 

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NO luke's link. That is junk. Metal to metal joints are not appropriate for track bars. They need at least one rubber joint for shock absorption when diff is moving up and down.
I disagree with that, I made my own Trac bar with giant 3" Uniball ends, and 3/4"bolts (metal on metal) and it's flawless, and will last absolutely forever. The suspension cycles smooth as butter.
 

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I've had a lukes link and bushing kit on my track bar for 6 years now, have added provided washers to adjust it once a couple years ago.
Have had no issues at all with it.
 

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What's the problem with Junk?
 

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i bent the bar a bit on both ends, only needed about 5 degrees. the rest just bolted right in
 
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