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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
DEEP BREATH, here goes....

First of all I'm on a budget and since I'm gonna be replacing my ball joints and brakes next week I started thinking about what else I should do....

so besides ball joints and brakes what else do you guys think I should do and can do economically?? I ordered McQuay-Norris ball joints(couldn't afford the top of the line stuff but I think these are decent from what I've heard) and EBC greenstuff pads, should I spend the money on new rotors or just get the OEM's turned for right now?? what else should I do? u-joints? if so what kind and which ones? I was looking on 8lugs site and they have different part numbers and I didn't know which ones (this is my first time I've kept a truck long enough to have to do any front end work) I can do some mild work myself, but since I'm gonna take it in for the major stuff, my shop guy will give me break on labor if I have multiple things done at once(which means he might at least lube it first if ya know what I mean:rof)

My truck is just a DD and rarely sees anything besides a paved road, just wondering where my $$ would be best spent:confused013: my truck has a mild lift and I upgraded springs, shocks and steering stabilizer about 20k ago

thanks for any input:thumbsup:

also, what about the bearings, should I replace those or can they just be repacked?
 

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If the u-joints are gone i would suggest the Spicer joints. I beleive those are made by the same company that makes McQuay-Norris which I hear are pretty heavy duty ball joints.

I believe the bearings in the front are a sealed unit that cannot be repacked. Some one else should confirm. They seem to outlast the ball joints and u-joints so I would leave them.

I had my rotors turned 5000km ago and they work great. I had 70,000 miles on the rotors and the pads were near done. I had no pulsation in the brakes and the rotors were not grooved. Have them turned the minimum possible if you don't have any brake pulsarion and the rotors are quite smooth to the touch. Once the new pads were installed i "bedded them". See the attached site for awesome info on brakes and what "warping" actually is. StopTech : Balanced Brake Upgrades

I bedded mine at night and could see the glowing against the asphalt and flickering of the red hot rotor after 2 100km to 0km braking episodes. Key is, DO IT ON AN OPEN HIGHWAY WHERE YOU CAN DRIVE FOR 3-4 MILES AFTER HAMMERING THE BRAKES 5 TIMES. YOU DO NOT WANT TO COME TO A STOP WITH YOUR FOOT ON THE BRAKES WHILE THEY ARE HOT! Not everybody does this, but I have read alot about bedding brakes and it makes sense to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·

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hydraulic lifter crew
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depending on your mileage i would go ahead and replace the hubs
while you are doing the ball joints. top of the line are the timkens,
but they are kind of pricey.
 

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u joints

i put ujoints on at around 130,000, its easy to tell when they go out as your truck will hop when you turn a corner. precisions at oreillys were cheap, have a longer needle (more surface area), and have a grease fitting. Where did you get your ball joints from? i need to replace mine, they have 169000 miles now as does the right hub. oh yeah i forgot my brake pads are all original also, still have alot of material left.
 

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you can do the alignment yourself if your patient... I've done this a few times with great results... get 4 jackstands and tie a string between 2 of them... run them from behind the rear wheel to beyond the front... line the jacks so that the string just touches the rear tire on both sides of the tire, front & back, do the same for the front, adjust your toe so the string just touches on both sides of the front as well... do this for both sides with the truck on the ground. once your done with both sides, take it for a spin and recheck it.

the caster can also be done pretty easily if needed... any adjustment should have the pinion bearing rotating towards the cab... you want to keep this pretty flat otherwise you'll have bearing noise.



 

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depending on your mileage i would go ahead and replace the hubs
while you are doing the ball joints. top of the line are the timkens,
but they are kind of pricey.
Don't the hubs usually last well over 150,000 miles on somebody who never takes their truck off-road?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i put ujoints on at around 130,000, its easy to tell when they go out as your truck will hop when you turn a corner. precisions at oreillys were cheap, have a longer needle (more surface area), and have a grease fitting. Where did you get your ball joints from? i need to replace mine, they have 169000 miles now as does the right hub. oh yeah i forgot my brake pads are all original also, still have alot of material left.
got mine at thetireclub.com

MCQUAY-NORRIS McQuay-Norris DODGE RAM HD 4X4 KIT FA2214 - FA2215,MFA2214MFA2215 - The Tire Club
 

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Don't the hubs usually last well over 150,000 miles on somebody who never takes their truck off-road?
large tires can greatly effect them, stock tire size and no offroad I would say the can last that long or longer.
 

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hydraulic lifter crew
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Don't the hubs usually last well over 150,000 miles on somebody who never takes their truck off-road?
usually they do, yes. you will have to take them off
to replace the axle u joints anyway, so you can check
them then. they should not spin super free, should be
some tightness to them.
 
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