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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I went to grease the front end of my 4X4 truck and first noticed there are no grease zerts on the u-joints in the stearing hinge, I thought that was odd. Then I was fiddeling with the u-joint and noticed its shot, lots of slack in it.

Is there a replacement u-joint that has grease zerts?
 

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Yes Spicer has u joints that use zerks for around $15. I just redid my front yoke and joint (didn't measure just had a spare u joint). I also made the yoke a u bolt style yoke by reaming out the holes. Read up on pirates dana 60 bible page. it will give you the where to measure digram and a chart on what size u bolt to order. look for it half way down the page!

Dana 60 Bible

my favorite brand

Spicer joints can be found almost anywhere online (amazon.com, completeoffroad.com, broncograveyard.com) for close to the same price as tom woods joints. Just stay away from napa and other parts store u joints, they aren't the same quality.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Spicer part number

Does anyone know where to locate and/or know what the spicer part number is for the U-joint on these trucks?
 

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Yes Spicer has u joints that use zerks for around $15. I just redid my front yoke and joint (didn't measure just had a spare u joint). I also made the yoke a u bolt style yoke by reaming out the holes. Read up on pirates dana 60 bible page. it will give you the where to measure digram and a chart on what size u bolt to order. look for it half way down the page!

Dana 60 Bible

my favorite brand

Spicer joints can be found almost anywhere online (amazon.com, completeoffroad.com, broncograveyard.com) for close to the same price as tom woods joints. Just stay away from napa and other parts store u joints, they aren't the same quality.

go measure it's easy! :thumbsup:
 

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its a spicer 1310 series. like I said I prefer tom woods. With spicer the grease zerk is almost impossible to get too when it's in the middle of the 1310's cross. Tom woods link is above and here is a random spicer distributor link!

U-Joint, Dana Spicer 3 1/2 in., 1310 series

i wasn't trying to make it difficult.... just figured it out myself! well mine is a 1310. With a 19 year old truck my yoke could have been swapped. Just in case and if no one else responds tom woods will have the answer if you call them and supply your vehicle info when they open tomorrow.
 

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It should be a 1310.

I don't like the greasable ones myself. Reason being, they're hollow because of the grease channels. Also, as mentioned, you usually can't get to the grease zerks once they're installed...so it's basically a moot point.

However, if you do run them, make sure you put them in correctly. Basically, just position it so the shaft that is transmitting power is pushing against the zerk and not pulling on it. If it's pulling against the area where the zerk is located it has much more of a tendency to crack. If that happens, it'll probably fail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Perfect!

Perfect, exactly what I needed. Now to find a weekend to take the front end apart and get this done
 

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There are a few options for the DANA/Spicer wheel joints:
Forged with zerk ~ p/n SPL55-4X
Forged w/o zerk ~ p/n 5-806X
Old school cast ~ p/n 5-332X

Check out Drive Line Service

I installed greasables last summer and it's part of my regular routine. Not hard to get to at all.
 

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There are a few options for the DANA/Spicer wheel joints:
Forged with zerk ~ p/n SPL55-4X
Forged w/o zerk ~ p/n 5-806X
Old school cast ~ p/n 5-332X

Check out Drive Line Service

I installed greasables last summer and it's part of my regular routine. Not hard to get to at all.

He is asking about the yoke u joint and not the axle shaft joints!
 

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Stay away from greaseable u-joints. They're not only weaker but they are inferior by letting more crap in more often then you will grease them. If you dont think so then take notice of the cap seals on greaseable and non-greaseable versions. The greaseable caps will literally fall off as only one weak seal is trying to keep grease in and all other impurities out. But the none-greaseable caps will actually snap in place and not come off easily as the there is 3 seals doing a great job of keeping the grease in and all the other garbage out. High quality grease used in non-greaseable u-joints will last far longer than any greaseable u-joint. Lastly, you have to consider the weight changes of greaseable u-joints when installing them in a driveshaft that had non-greaseable since they're hollow and the have a zerk hanging off the side which means that the driveshaft should really be re-balanced.:thumbsup:
 

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I am in no way trying to start something but i strongly disagree with the grease-able non grease-able conclusion. It is literally a fact that well greased needle bearings last longer then un greased ones. I am very involved in the off road hobby with years of experience building and abusing off road vehicles. through the use of two transfer cases we put more torgue through driveline then any diesel pickup. Dana 60's need to be upgraded with cryogenic frozen gears, chromolly 35 spline shafts and needle-less axle shaft u joints. This extreme sport uses nothing but grease able u joints. The link provided earlier (tom woods) has 1310 u joints with the grease zerk in the cap (no balance issue). This well known company builds a stronger u joint then spicer IMO and warranties not only the joint but also your driveshaft if breakage occurs. All high quality u joints have veins and a un grease-able ones have a vein pre loaded with grease so that centrifical force slowly draws the grease into the cap. Further more if you over grease the joint and it pushes the grease cap off and then you forget to push it back on with a screw driver centrifical force will most likely snug it back on for you. Grease able joints have weaker caps only to releave pressure if they are over greased. High quality tom woods or spicer joints will retain the caps and are not in any way prone to falling off.

According to the guys at tom woods. "although every driveshaft should be balanced with the u joints installed the weight of said grease zerk is literally un noticed by even the finest driveshaft balancing machines." According to them it is not really a measurable difference and with the cap formed with a hole and tapped then a zerk installed it's almost un noticeably heavier then the solid caps. Your more likely to have a heavier clod of grease or more paint on one side of the shaft. After filling the void in the cap the metal that forms the nut and zerk is not only mostly hollow but also thin and light. Look at the weights used to balance your driveshaft then glance at a grease zerk.

Don't hate me just please think about what i've said it's not just my opinion i'm very well versed in this subject.
 

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I am in no way trying to start something but i strongly disagree with the grease-able non grease-able conclusion. It is literally a fact that well greased needle bearings last longer then un greased ones. I am very involved in the off road hobby with years of experience building and abusing off road vehicles. through the use of two transfer cases we put more torgue through driveline then any diesel pickup. Dana 60's need to be upgraded with cryogenic frozen gears, chromolly 35 spline shafts and needle-less axle shaft u joints. This extreme sport uses nothing but grease able u joints. The link provided earlier (tom woods) has 1310 u joints with the grease zerk in the cap (no balance issue). This well known company builds a stronger u joint then spicer IMO and warranties not only the joint but also your driveshaft if breakage occurs. All high quality u joints have veins and a un grease-able ones have a vein pre loaded with grease so that centrifical force slowly draws the grease into the cap. Further more if you over grease the joint and it pushes the grease cap off and then you forget to push it back on with a screw driver centrifical force will most likely snug it back on for you. Grease able joints have weaker caps only to releave pressure if they are over greased. High quality tom woods or spicer joints will retain the caps and are not in any way prone to falling off.

According to the guys at tom woods. "although every driveshaft should be balanced with the u joints installed the weight of said grease zerk is literally un noticed by even the finest driveshaft balancing machines." According to them it is not really a measurable difference and with the cap formed with a hole and tapped then a zerk installed it's almost un noticeably heavier then the solid caps. Your more likely to have a heavier clod of grease or more paint on one side of the shaft. After filling the void in the cap the metal that forms the nut and zerk is not only mostly hollow but also thin and light. Look at the weights used to balance your driveshaft then glance at a grease zerk.

Don't hate me just please think about what i've said it's not just my opinion i'm very well versed in this subject.
How could someone "hate" you Curleyman just because you have an opinion.....and offer good info too.:confused013: Even though as my previous post reads to oppose yours, I still agree with you. Understand that everything I said was simply pertaining to basic on-road applications which offers the most reliability and the best option for basic maintenance. A non-greaseable u-joint pre-loaded with high quality grease can easily last hundreds of thousands of miles on the road if its not abused.....but if you're not careful and mindfull of ritual maintenance with a greaseable u-joint, the same cannot be said. So, off road applications and extreme race applications fall under a different set of rules.:thumbsup:
 

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excellent point Katoom, some are just so offended when a conflicting opinion is posted. You are very correct, many vehicles come with un greaseable joints and the joints do well for just as long if not longer then even the motor.
:agree2:
 
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