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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
I have a 2012 3500 Mega SRW 4wd. Hearing metal on metal and the truck pops when I put it into 4wd and turn even slightly. Think it’s slack in the chain of the t case among other things. My question is, with it being an automatic, is the rebuild kit an NP273? Anyone tried Rigid Axle rebuild kits? Drained and refilled the t case and added 1.5 qts to the front diff (I know...🥴) didn’t do any good. Should I just say forget it and rebuild the whole thing?
 

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The popping while turning is indicative of bad u joints or ball joints in the front axle. My guess is u joints since it only happens in 4wd.

If you can hear chain rubbing the housing, thats another problem. Housing is probably trash if you can hear it over the noise from truck.

T case is easy to take off and pull apart, especially if its manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
T case is electronic, BW 44-46 so the rebuild is an NP273 I believe. The chain rub just started Monday, it’s not super loud, I’m just hyper sensitive to the noise
 

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T case is electronic, BW 44-46 so the rebuild is an NP273 I believe. The chain rub just started Monday, it’s not super loud, I’m just hyper sensitive to the noise
BW= Borg Warner. NP273 is a New Process 272 case. Different mfg and totally different cases.
 

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So...which rebuild kit
May want to have someone else rebuild it unless you can at least first understand what Jhenderson just said above.
The difference is, how can I put this, um, like the difference between ford and chevy. The may both be truck and they may do the same things, but they are DIFFERNET BRANDS AND MODELS.

And why would you just "order" u-joints and bearings "while you're at it?"
Figure out what's wrong and fix what's wrong. Nothing "wrong" with preventative repairs, but generally those repairs are calculated, not hap hazard.
 
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Discussion Starter #14
I’m not wrenching on it, should’ve stated that in the beginning. My bad. But I am ordering parts to make sure I get the best for my money. I’m just hedging my bets on the PM’s, might as well do it while it’s torn apart. My mechanic is a good friend, I help where I can and fetch beers when I can’t.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Is the t case interchangeable with newer models? As long as it a 44-46, can I get one out of say, a 2018, and throw it in my 2012?
 

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why throw in a 18 T case that may or may not be good? Why rebuild a t-case if you don't know its the problem. Why throw U-joints in while your at it? Thats not the same thing. Thats like saying im going to change the oil because Im replacing the rear brake pads... yeah your working on the truck but does it really need the oil change? Does it really nee the Ujoints? Your noise could easily be a hub bearing. Or a few different things. Including a bad carrier if a 2 piece drive shaft. Ive had allllll of it. Minus the t-case chain issue. I would have your buddy who is going to spend the wrench time, look and see what's up. If you want to order parts to have on hand, just incase, and return later, that's one thing. If you want to spend money needlessly, may I recommend a gentleman's club.

IMO more often than not we ALL end up buying something from orielly and replacing it sooner than later if we keep our trucks long enough. Not much (with exceptions) lasts as long as OEM.

With that being said... after Christmas I have to replace the adapter seal between my T-case and my trans. At which point I intend to split the T-case and inspect the chain ETC.... Because its already there and out of the truck, and its a big lift on 37's, added power over OEM etc etc, and I have found several gremlins from the previous owner's lack of knowledge..... I will also be dropping the trans pan and replacing filters because.... Im already there and some fluid will have to be added after either way and its due...


Well dang... that was a novel....
 
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Discussion Starter #18
why throw in a 18 T case that may or may not be good? Why rebuild a t-case if you don't know its the problem. Why throw U-joints in while your at it? Thats not the same thing. Thats like saying im going to change the oil because Im replacing the rear brake pads... yeah your working on the truck but does it really need the oil change? Does it really nee the Ujoints? Your noise could easily be a hub bearing. Or a few different things. Including a bad carrier if a 2 piece drive shaft. Ive had allllll of it. Minus the t-case chain issue. I would have your buddy who is going to spend the wrench time, look and see what's up. If you want to order parts to have on hand, just incase, and return later, that's one thing. If you want to spend money needlessly, may I recommend a gentleman's club.

IMO more often than not we ALL end up buying something from orielly and replacing it sooner than later if we keep our trucks long enough. Not much (with exceptions) lasts as long as OEM.

With that being said... after Christmas I have to replace the adapter seal between my T-case and my trans. At which point I intend to split the T-case and inspect the chain ETC.... Because its already there and out of the truck, and its a big lift on 37's, added power over OEM etc etc, and I have found several gremlins from the previous owner's lack of knowledge..... I will also be dropping the trans pan and replacing filters because.... Im already there and some fluid will have to be added after either way and its due...


Well damn... that was a novel....
Understood and appreciate it. I’m kind of in the same boat, don’t know the history of my truck but I have a feeling it wasn’t maintained according to recommendations and now I’m finding the neglect. I don’t mind working on the truck and doing what I can, but this is above my pay grade. While it’s torn down, I’m going to go ahead and do maintenance on things I feel like are going to pop up down the road sooner rather than later. It’s a PM/peace of mind thing more than doing it just because. My son is getting the truck next summer so I want to nip any possible major issues in the bud now.
 

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Diagnosing u joints and hub bearings is fairly easy. Jacking up the front and putting the front axle on stands will yield a lot of information. Pry bar under the tires will give you an idea of ball joint play.... Up and down less than 1/8" (I think that is the right variance) is ok. In and out is no go. Drag link or tie rod ends should have no play when someone grabs a tire at 3 and 9 oclock and shakes to and fro (left and right) wheels should spin free and silent (Minus a slight brake pad noise) If your unsure, pull the wheel and brake caliper, install wheel and spin and see if the noise is gone or not. If its gone, its normal, if its there, its your hub.

Ujoints can be tricky. They only may bind in one very specific spot. with means rotating the front tires in every single solitary position you can find on the steering wheel. The best practice is pull front axles and "feel" them if you are chasing a gremlin. You can generally hear a ujoint click when turning at low speeds in 2x4 or up on jack stands.


You can also pull the front drive shaft and see if the noise changes... It may be best practice anyways just to inspect and "feel" the double cardigan joint.

Note* the joint is a sphere and will have a rough spot when its 100% straight. so if you "feel" a hitch when its straight out, its normal. Thats when the joint is at its longest.

Confirming, the noise is ONLY in 4x4 engaged?
 
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Discussion Starter #20
The popping is only when 4wd is engaged and the wheels are turned +\- 30* in either direction on any surface. The metal to metal occurs from 15-40mph but I feel like I have that narrowed down
 
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