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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i used 4X4 for the first time today. there is a heavy clunk and grind noise when using it but not all the time. the front diff/axle is fully rebuilt as of last year with all YG and usa gear parts.

2wd has no issues that i can find.

the axle under load will rotate up and down which i have NEVER seen before o_O it also kinda looks like the front drive shaft is slipping and catching?

i cant tell if the issue is Tcase or axle BUT given how the axle is moving i think its an axle issue.

im uploading the video to youtube now but the front axle will rotate around itself (pinion angle change) to the tune of about 15 degrees in either direction... its just the control arms that hold the axle in place right?

video 1:

video 2: https://youtu.be/2OVs_cv27bE
 

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I would say you have some serious binding going on and definitely in the front diff by the looks of that 2nd video.
 

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Welcome to high low end torque...and soft coils.

I have a spring noise i am chasing....i can hear it when driving and yanking the wheel, i can heat it when hitting the driver coil, juat cannot get it to stop.

It is a recent addition, and my steering feels slightly odd, doesnt return to center correctly, and has a slight pull.

This weekend, it is getting addressed even if it has to come apart.
 

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Welcome to high low end torque...and soft coils.

I have a spring noise i am chasing....i can hear it when driving and yanking the wheel, i can heat it when hitting the driver coil, juat cannot get it to stop.

It is a recent addition, and my steering feels slightly odd, doesnt return to center correctly, and has a slight pull.

This weekend, it is getting addressed even if it has to come apart.
Did you watch the videos? He has something else going on.
 

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I did, and dont disagree.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i have marked teh tubes, i will check if the marking hve moved tomorrow. that will tell me if i have broken the welds from pumpkin to tubes. also my drivers side control arm mounts are off set, it may be factory but it may also be crushed... ill take some pictures tomorrow and post it up.

ill pull the axle appart sunday and check for issues with the shafts/carrier/ what have you. from there Tcase may have an issue too but not sureyet
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
can anyone post a picture of their axle-control arm mounts, just so i can compare
 

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That looks really bound up. Like the front and rear have 2 different ratios?
 

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Based on the though of two different ratios, possible front tires and rear tires different diameters.

Watching the video, was think control arm bushings serverly worn out.

Bob G.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ok guys... i pulled the truck into work before i left and... wow

so something must have bound up in order to cause this damage. i dont know what but i cant be the Tcase, right?... it must be a bind in the front axle in order to cause that kind of resistance?

i have no issues in 2wd
both front and rear diffs were rebuilt to 4.11 gearing and it worked winter before last wich was after i did the gearing swap
the front has an Elocker so lets just say its damaged... could that cause the kind of binding that could do this damage?
i have bent my factory drag link by a solid 30 degrees due to binding up off road with rock crawling while having the E locker on
the front drive shaft exploded off the yolk not long ago and the drive shaft pole vaulted into the ground. i replaced the slip yolk with out issue

could the pure torque from the engine cause this kind of flex with out any internal issues of binding in the diff?

here are some pics of what i found tonight. this weekend im going to pull the control arms and try to bend some of this stuff back, then gusset it, and weld on new steel to brace things. if it turns out i cant bend the rotating bolt things back could i just cut all that off, weld on some new plate, and then buy adjustable lower control arms to take the place of those stupid rotational bolts?

how much do used axles go for? i could get one, transfer parts, weld up braces so this dosent break again, then sell my current one as is for parts?

see the bowing/crushing on the upper control arm mount.
see the destroyed braces for the rotational caster bolts
pics: https://photos.app.goo.gl/qRfcb9Zr9bcdzjtGA
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i started working on it. the holes in teh mounts are destroyed, the assembly that the caster washer thing rests on has broken clear off the axle. looks like its only lightly spot welded from the factory... i am using a harbor freight power press thing to bend it all back out. its a total mess. had to cut the control arm bolt out, im replacing it now with a 3/4" grade 8, im reaming 5/8" washers out to 3/4 and welding those onto the axle for new bolt holes...
 
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i started working on it. the holes in teh mounts are destroyed, the assembly that the caster washer thing rests on has broken clear off the axle. looks like its only lightly spot welded from the factory... i am using a harbor freight power press thing to bend it all back out. its a total mess. had to cut the control arm bolt out, im replacing it now with a 3/4" grade 8, im reaming 5/8" washers out to 3/4 and welding those onto the axle for new bolt holes...
bingo. i was going to suggest checking your mounts to the axle. ive seen that same issue before :crying:
 

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Those control arms arnt factory, someones monkeyed with them. Even if the front axle was binding you shouldnt see movement like that, wheel hop maybe but that definitely looks control arm related.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
the control arms are DoR, im talking to them now to get new bushings and some adjustable lower arms to replace the cam nuts. im using 3/4" bolts with 1 1/8" nuts to hold hte arms on now. much stronger layout.

the diff... if an Elocker is unlocked one should be able to rotate the wheels indepenant of one another right?

at present when i clamp the front drive shaft so it cant rotate, then clamp one rotor so it also can not rotate, i cant not turn the other side rotor. if i keep the drive shaft locked and leave both rotors unlocked - when i turn one rotor the other rotates in the opposite direction.

this leads me to believe the E locker is engaged...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
eaton elocker
 

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From what I can tell it should act like a open diff when unlocked. If the front drive shaft is unable to turn, you should be able to rotate one tire and the opposite side will rotate in the other detection, with the front end off the ground of course.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
i just tested it. it is drawing 3.5A and i can feel a noticeable resistance change from power to no power so yea its enguaging/disengaging
 

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You need to plate all control arm mount holes on the axle side...the use a longer bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
i have only done the axle side on the drivers. once i get the new parts in from DoR ill weld up new washers to upgrade all the bolt holes and then ill gusset the passenger side as well and the frame side.
 
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