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Fresh rebuid not starting

2292 Views 39 Replies 17 Participants Last post by  Modog, 
M
Hey,

I have spend a couple hours reading through the quick links stickys on T/S and im still at loss.

I have a 2000 24v in a crew cab auto at 252K. I bought the truck unknowingly with the 53 block. Had no idea. The guy who sold it to me scammed me. Drove it from IN to DE. Broke down in PA with multiple overheating problems. Pushed the truck at 225-235(pegged out) most the way from PA to DE. Limped it to DE my final destination at about 45 mph.

I get the truck to Carey's Diesel in Leipsic, DE. I pulled the motor and someone else dissasembled it. (he was a new guy that got fired after pullin my motor apart). Found a new non 53 block in PA. My cyl head was not warped, only the exh valve guides needed to be knurled. John build my motor. He put all sensors and wiring harness on. I install the motor with no problems.

With everything connected we fill the fuel filter manifold and go to start up and nothing! Threw a crap ton of codes. Oil pressure sensor low/high (P0522-23), APPS position sensor voltage too low (P0122), Decreased Engine Performance Due to Eng Overheat (P0217), Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Too high Too Long (P0236), Transfer Pump Circuit out of Range (P0230), Diagnosis Trouble Code Detected in PCM/Companion Module (P1693).

On initial computer hook up we where able to clear the over heat codes and manifold psi codes. I discovered that once I opened the APPS to wide open I could clear the APPS faults. and when I disconnected the Crank posistion sensor I could clear my Oil PSI codes thus leaving me with no codes at all!

So I did the wise thing in my head and replaced the CPS. Well that was yesterday and I got the Companion fault, Oil PSI high, and my APPS faults back.

I have to replace the OIL PSI sensor now because I went to take it off and the connector housing shattered. :/ But what is the possibility that those two sensors are just bad?

All guidance and wisdom is welcome. Please oh please educate me.

Thank you,

David
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cumminsrollcoal
Put a different motor in my truck a couple months ago and it threw nearly every code possible. After driving it without any issues for around 1,000 miles my cousin hooked his smarty up to it and the codes were gone. They disappeared just from driving it. Maybe drive it and see what happens?


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M
That's good news! Unfortunately for me is that it won't even start. We even hot wired the lift pump to the battery and nothin. I got 14 psi to the injection pump. Whatever the problem is it's gotta be electrical, mind that the truck ran before we took it apart.



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dozer12216
Have you purged the injector lines?
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cumminsrollcoal
Will it turn over with the key or not?


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M
I did not purge the lines. I had only filled the fuel filter housing with diesel and cranked her from there.

Yes, she does crank. Very strongly too. I might need a new starter at the end of all this trouble shooting but yes she cranks.


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C
Loosen the injector lines at the head. 1,3,5. Crank engine no more the 30 seconds. Close lines when they get fuel. It'll start then. It's air locked.
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M
cummins6sp5.9 said:
Loosen the injector lines at the head. 1,3,5. Crank engine no more the 30 seconds. Close lines when they get fuel. It'll start then. It's air locked.
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Thank you bub!! I'll try this as soon as the shop opens.


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DodgeMech
I would have hoped someone at that shop passing by as you were cranking on her would have told you about the need to bleed a diesel out...
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M
cmns2500 said:
I would have hoped someone at that shop passing by as you were cranking on her would have told you about the need to bleed a diesel out...
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Well the thing is, is I think everyone has assumed I bled the system and has assumed everyone would have already told to bleed.

So question, do the injectors not about air out as te injector pump pressurizes the fuel?


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DodgeMech
I wished I understood why you have to bleed it, maybe because compression pressures push the air out of the injector back through the system, and the only way to get the fuel pressure to overcome that is to let air out at the head...
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dieselwelder
you gotta bleed those injector lines !!!!!!
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T
hI

Disconnect the grid heater and give it a shot of EASY START :spank:

that will get her going :shock:
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chadcycle 2500
Loosen #1,3,4,5,6 injector lines at the head,you can get to #6 if you have the lift ring on the back of the intake off or twisted. I put rags on the head at the lines to keep the mess down. Crank the engine over until the fuel gets the rags wet, tighten the lines it should fire up
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cumminsrollcoal
Yeah can't really get to number 2 that well and it will take some cranking to get it to start. It will eventually start though


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M
cumminsrollcoal said:
Yeah can't really get to number 2 that well and it will take some cranking to get it to start. It will eventually start though


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Thank you! I was actually wondering why no.2 wasn't mentioned, but it makes total sense!


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Y
The reason for bleeding the lines is that air compresses & that makes it so that the injectors cannot pop off. Loosen the return line on the VP & bump the starter. You should get a 25 second run on the fuel pump. Close that off. Then bleed the injector lines as suggested. I have done well with only 1,3 & 4 loosened, but your results may vary.

Ed
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Doubletap
Did it start yet? anxiously waiting lol
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Johnnysspaceship
Should start fine once all the air is out. I always just do 1,3,5 and it works great. Try bumping the starter a few times first. (Turn the key past on just for a bump) should here lift pump going. Wait 25sec, do it again. Don't crank for more than 10sec at a time.

I find it hard to believe that your head isn't warped after all that heat. Even if its 3/1000 out it should be decked.
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Yankneck696 said:
The reason for bleeding the lines is that air compresses & that makes it so that the injectors cannot pop off. Loosen the return line on the VP & bump the starter. You should get a 25 second run on the fuel pump. Close that off. Then bleed the injector lines as suggested. I have done well with only 1,3 & 4 loosened, but your results may vary.

Ed
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I'm learning that all my frustration is because of ignorance! Gosh I wish I would have know this before I initially started all this troubleshooting.

This is my first real diesel that I've got to learn on. Had a Duramax before but this to tear apart and put together. I grew up rebuilding small block Chevys with carbs...not injectors.

Thank you all so much for the knowledge! I won't know if this works yet because I only go to the shop on my days off work with are usually 13 hr shifts. But I did call the diesel techs there and hopefully they will have had time to work it. The deal I have with the shop owner is that I'll do all the work so I can save money.


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