I just finished installing my Spyntec kit, and I'm thoroughly impressed with the engineering and ease of the install. Since I was in there I also did the ball joints to a grease able units, and had a harder time R&Ring them than the Free Spin install. So let me dispel at least one rumor. In the pictures I measured the height of the old bearing and the new kit. And if it adds anything to the width of the vehicle it’s under a total of ¼ of an inch (1/8 per side). The only thing that was odd was the use of shims on the new yokes. Spyntec stated in the installation instructions the shims were used to make some of the kits more interchangeable with other vehicles. Some people will say “when I go to replace the U joints I’ll have to fabricate new shims or buy new ones.” Well I would say replace the damn U joints during the install ($20 each and grease able units) and because they are no longer in use during day to day driving, they should outlast the vehicle.
After driving the vehicle the first thing I noticed was I don’t feel the slight binding in a lock turn. And I also noticed how easy the truck rolls when cold. I know I’ll at least pick up 2MPG if not more.
So the total cost was.
$1550 for the kit.
$370 for grease able ball joints
$40 for grease able U joints.
And of course DIY labor is free. But with the ball joints my total labor was 9Hrs. That was really taking my time and includes the fabrication of the spanner to tighten the wheel bearings. Also I’ve noticed in other peoples Free Spin installs they used a damn chainsaw to cut the hole in the wheel caps to allow the use of the old caps. Not to blow my own horn, whoever has purchased a kit to install has already has spent at least $1550 and at least take the time to cut the hub caps. I had use of my company’s lathe but anyone can at least use a Dermal to keep the install clean.
And last but not least. After the install the owner needs to remember to put it in 4X4 WITHOUT LOCKING IN THE HUBS and driving it to heat up the oil to get rid of the condensation that gets into the differential. So the day that you need to lock in you can still turn the hubs and you don’t have a bearing whine due to a rusted up carrier bearings or pinion bearings.
After driving the vehicle the first thing I noticed was I don’t feel the slight binding in a lock turn. And I also noticed how easy the truck rolls when cold. I know I’ll at least pick up 2MPG if not more.
So the total cost was.
$1550 for the kit.
$370 for grease able ball joints
$40 for grease able U joints.
And of course DIY labor is free. But with the ball joints my total labor was 9Hrs. That was really taking my time and includes the fabrication of the spanner to tighten the wheel bearings. Also I’ve noticed in other peoples Free Spin installs they used a damn chainsaw to cut the hole in the wheel caps to allow the use of the old caps. Not to blow my own horn, whoever has purchased a kit to install has already has spent at least $1550 and at least take the time to cut the hub caps. I had use of my company’s lathe but anyone can at least use a Dermal to keep the install clean.
And last but not least. After the install the owner needs to remember to put it in 4X4 WITHOUT LOCKING IN THE HUBS and driving it to heat up the oil to get rid of the condensation that gets into the differential. So the day that you need to lock in you can still turn the hubs and you don’t have a bearing whine due to a rusted up carrier bearings or pinion bearings.
