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Fluid and Filter guide rough-draft unfinished all help is welcome.

2K views 15 replies 6 participants last post by  RockstarRoyce 
#1 · (Edited)
I know theres plenty other knowledgeable people here, dont know their names. If you know someone who knows fluids and filters or is down to dig deep on this topic tag them plz. Everyone from every model any help we can get much appreciated.
Once we've come to a consensus i'll clean this whole thread up and maybe we can pin it at the top with a different title to help update everyone and anyone new to the forums or searching online. Or delete and repost or whatever.
For now this is a work in progress so dont take any of it as final yet, but if all you've been seeing is like decade old data, yes we have some solid varified improvements so far. Read ahead.
Thnx to AH64ID, Utahtrapper, and many others for paving the way, as well as the makers of cumminsforum and the internet for enabling us to link and work together. Which is what its all about because without working together and sharing we wouldnt have all the technology and upgrades and videos and entertainment and everything we have today.
Special shoutout to vets a lot of my generation doesnt understand the sacrifices they made for our freedom and the life we enjoy.
As well as all the guys and gals throughout history that fought for the greater good and freedom and all and continue to do so, and those that will in the future no doubt.
For those about to rock we salute you.

Water separators 1-14 thread size:
Still working on water separators for our 1-14 filter heads, and also extra solutions and upgrades beyond these.
Stay tuned in may be a couple weeks more or less till im finished
Also im gonna try to figure out what the FASS rebranded filters are, probably still donaldson/baldwin parker racor.

Water specs only for now to simplify.

Fleetguard FS1212:
Free water removal:97-99%
Emulsified water removal:92-95%

Baldwin BF1212:Price: $20 so far
Free water removal:97-99%
Emulsified water removal:92-95%
Sensor port version: BF7798-SP
Micron rating is 4 Nominal; 20 Absolute.

Details about how these 2 performed vs FASS filters can be found in the link right there below.
I dont know much about these tests.
What is the first pass?
They calculate for cumulative efficiency. Someone decipher those tests lol.

This testing funded by FASS from 2020 so keep in mind its 3 years old but thats fairly recent compared to what ive been working with,
This is for water separators:
FASS Fuel Filters vs. The Competion: 3rd Party Test Results - FASS Diesel Fuel Systems (fassride.com)
They did the FS1212, BF1212, some of Airdog's, and some sub-par Racor and others.
Keep in mind, Airdog supposedly runs sub-par filters on purpose, so they can claim that you will never have an issue due to their system clogging up (lol).
The implication being that they'd rather let stuff pass thru and potentially cause an issue with your IP/injectors rather than have to change their filters too often, or losing lift pump pressure and blame them. IF thats true, which the tests do show a substantially less quality filter (at time of testing), then lol...
Yeah i know most are not running the original filters they sent you i hope, and i also hope you still have your stock filter in place. If not add a final FF/FS setup asap.

----Find out who all Parker-Racor supplies.

For the guys who dont participate or are unaware of the forums..i feel for..i'll try to enlighten them when i come across them lol. Any potential sponsors reading this give me free stuff asap.

For clarification their cross reference page says:
With our Research and Development accompanied by 3rd party laboratory testing, we have found no other water separator and fuel filter combination that will work as effectively as the FASS brand fuel filter PF-3001 and Extreme Water Separator XWS- 3002. We offer cross references for emergency situations.
They say combination, and maybe thats for the smaller thread sizes let me check, but their testing results show the 3002XL being substantially better on the first row, which they posted twice at 100gph lol unless im seeing doubles, and also did 165gph and 250 gph passes on both 3002 and 3002XL.

Also another thing im seeing is with the higher flow rates, obviously the FS filters are a lot less efficient. Something to keep in mind for anyone running 165/250gph setups. That applies for the particulate filters as well, especially with the smaller filters, a higher flow possibly means a bigger air pocket, reducing the filter surface area actually utilized to 2/3 and at less efficiency. Id like to see a clear filter at higher flows.
If you have a higher flow pump its another reason to keep your stock setup, or install a final filter underhood if you've already removed your stock housing. At one angle this all sounds like overkill and can be easily dismissed. Now look at this angle, newer trucks call this double filtering stuff standard, with pretty much all of the fluids.

2023 and our fuel quality here in the Southeast anyways is trash. Ill try to explain why.
Pops already had to take his new Colorado Duramax in twice for water in fuel, and i mean a full truck shut down, drain and flush entire system deal. Which shows either our fuel really sucks or the new trucks have really tight tolerances. EIther way, all reasons to pay attention to the updates we are working on now.
They travel a lot so it will be out of warranty here soon, and yeah you know im not gonna let him run stock once that happens, he'd be screwed.

Particle Filters:
Aka main, secondary, final, fuel filter. The thing thats not the water separator.

Whats a micron?
Microns are a linear measurement indicating length, or in relation to automotive filters it indicates the length and width of various particle sizes. A micron is defined as one millionth of a meter. The standard unit of measurement in the automotive industry is in inches. A simple comparison of the two systems is that a 25 micron particle is approximately 0.001 of an inch. The averge human eye can see up to a 40 micron particle without an aid. In comparison, the diameter of a human hair is around 85 microns. One micron is a millionth of a meter or 0.0000393 inch. Soot particles.

When examining filters,
There's a lot more to scrutinizing just micron size. How well the filter is built, how it handles vibration, cellulose vs synthetic, pressure, flow etc., are all part of it. The smallest size test dust now used as an acceptable standard is 4 micron (since about 2000). There's a lot of marketing going on regarding micron capability and not sure how any mfg claims anything under 4 or what they are using to do so. Cat used to rate the 1R-0750 at 2 micron Beta 75 but it all changed when the test dust changed. Micron ratings mean nothing unless there is an efficiency with them and ISO 19438 is the standard used for fuel filter multipass ratings. SAE J1985 is the single pass test.
Thanks damork and to everyone else im getting this valueable info from.

Percentage ratings and test standards are what you want to focus on too, as well as if it restricts flow, not just the micron rating. A filter may claim a 2 or 3 micron rating, which sounds cool but without the % of efficiency and what standard the rating is, it may be a single 2 micron particle is filtered per every x-amount that makes it thru the filter. Which again is great in a bypass or recycling system, not great if thats going to your injection system.
To further confuse things, there are different standards of testing.
SAE is standard american of course,
ISO is international.
Mobile_The_Micron_Rating.pdf (parker.com)
Every filter company can choose which test standards make there filter look best.

The ISO 19438 was updated in 2/23.
ISO 19438:2023 - Diesel fuel and petrol filters for internal combustion engines — Filtration efficiency using particle counting and contaminant retention capacity
SAE J1858 was discontinued in 2002, and a new test SAE J1260 was implemented in August 2007 (SAE Standards, 2007).

The ISO 16889:2008 was updated in 2022.
ISO 16889:2008 - Hydraulic fluid power — Filters — Multi-pass method for evaluating filtration performance of a filter element


Stock fuel filter/water separator housing:
Baldwin PF7977. Havent made it this far yet but anyone who has an upgrade spill the beans.
So far though this is the agreed upon best for the stock filter housing.

Baldwin PF7977:
Efficiency 98.7%5 micron
Free water removal:97-99%
Emulsified water removal:92-95%
Efficiency Test Standard
If you have this filter in place in your stock filter housing, in combination with a filtration setup before it, like back on the frame rail, thats great, since even though this isnt the best compared to what were running on our aftermarket kits, its a good little measure of final insurance, and you wont have to change this filter nearly as often, so might as well have it.
If you have a final filter inbetween this and your injection pump, thats badass and a great setup, just keep in mind you'll change this out as normal.
If you dont have this filter anymore and only have the kit at the back, i recommend putting it back in or installing a final filter underhood. You wont have to change it very often and its a great final insurance measure. The aftermarket duramax unit is pretty cool it has a built in heater and bleeder valve, which maybe could be used to take samples as well as install pressure gauges here. That'd be cool.

Particle fuel filter 1-14 thread size:
Which is the thread size for most of our aftermarket filter kits.
Fleetguard FF5814 and Donaldson DBF5814 are so far the best particle filter, thread size 1-14.

Donaldson P551313:
Efficiency 99%3 micron
Efficiency Test StandardSAE J1858


Fleetguard FF5320:
Efficiency 98.7%5 micron
Efficiency 92%2 micron

So the Donaldson DBF5814, and Fleetguard FF5814 i think use ISO 19438:2003

The FF5814 is Fleetguard's update for their FF5320.
Fleetguard FF5814:
Efficiency 98%3 micron
Dont have specs on the rest.

Donaldson DBF5814:
Efficiency 99.9%4 micron
Efficiency Test StandardISO 19438

Donaldson DBF5817:
Efficiency 99.9%4 micron
Efficiency Test StandardISO 19438

CAT AHE 1R 0749 is 1-14 threads.

CAT AHE 1R-0750
is claimed to be 98% at 2 microns but thats from 2001 SAE J1858 apparently.
It removes 74 out of every 75 four micron particles that pass through it, also known as a Beta 75 capable for 4 micron particles.
So careful what you read.
Under newer standards its 4 microns absolute (98.7% or higher).
2 micron rating im not sure at this time but safe to say its probably comparable to the DBF5814.
1-14 threads.

CAT AHE 1R 0751 is 7/8 - 14 threads.
Comparable to the AHE 1R-0750 but with the smaller threads to fit some of the aftermarket lift pump setups.

CAT UHE 416 1225 is 1-14 threads and 10 inches long.
Sub 4 micron absolute using ISO 19438 .
Gotta research this one, whats sub 4 mean?
Big filter how much is it lol.
CAT filters can be fakes lol. Beware of some amazon and ebay deals dont get your filters off alibaba lmao.


Im gonna find us a better one though mark my words but for now these are all very good particle filters to run.
However the Donaldson DBF5814 is a newer type of media, an upgrade, and its safe to say its better than the P551313, and the micron rating differences are due to different test types.
I dont have the rest of the specs on them yet.

Filter head thread sizes for FASS and Airdog by models:
Waiting on this and other intel directly from FASS. Including why they reversed the filter orientations, what effect that has on air separation, why they dont have the XWS3002Xl on the HD series pump setup, and a couple other questions i doubt they'll answer but f it lol.

Okay their HD series run the 1 1/2-16 thread sizes.
Particle filter: FF1003 & water separator: XWS-1002.
That means the HD series does not run their claimed best filter, the XWS3002Xl.
Note the HD series is separate from the Class 8 big rig series, theyre two different pump/filter setups.


I think all their other current systems are running 1-14 thread size now.

How do our top picks add up compared to what fits the FASS system?
Filter Cross Reference Sheet for Diesel Fuel Pumps - FASS Diesel Fuel Systems (fassride.com)
Im not gonna analyze their whole list, but they have Baldwin BF1212 listed as a fuel filter i think. Am i mixed up lol?

For simplicity i'll just stick to 1-14 thread filters throughout this section, and if anyone needs me to research other sizes or wants to know what im running just LMK.


Stock oil filter housing:
Donaldson DBL7349 is bigger high flow version of stock. 15 micron absolute.
Will update this soon. From what i know so far, you want a full flow type filter here, because this is your first line of defense, do not run a bypass filter here as you will be allowing 90-95% of your oil flow to go unfiltered thru your turbo and motor.
Also very important is to make sure you have a high flow filter here with low restriction. Which usually means sacrificing some filtration capacity.
Im gonna find out the flow specs on this filter, and find us something either with better flow, or better filtration, or both. Stay tuned.
There are 2 stage filters, which have a high flow section, and an internal secondary bypass filter style section built in.
Most of my work here is gonna be on a secondary external bypass kit setup, but if you dont want to do a secondary oil filter,
i think these 2 stage filters may get full quicker, and not flow as well. LMK and ill look into these if anyone is interested though.

Studying the relief valve settings.

Oil:
Coming soon. Ill really get into this once i get some more people contributing to my high-mileage case study.
For now im sure everyone knows all the good oils, but i do have some good research on additive pkg's and emissions related stuff ill be working on.
Also running 5w40 in a hot climate vs 15w40.
Some say its the final weight that matters, but if thats the case why even is there a 14w40?
Should we do 15w40 in the summer, 5w40 in the winter?
Im working on the oil stuff hang with me.


Types of fuel:
Coming soon.
A lot of places have biodiesel now. Some people say its great for lubricity at 1-2%, like running an additive.
Im also reading that it has a much higher water content and water attractant properties ill keep that simple for now read on for more.


Additives:
Coming soon.
What fuel additives are yall running now?


Testing your fuel stations:
Coming soon.


Beer:
Guinness draught stout.
Nitrogenated and brewed in Dublin Ireland since 1759,
This stout brew packs a punch while still supplying ample carbs and protein to fuel any activity.
Whether it be work, chilling, or whatever enjoy Guinness draught stout responsibly, dont drink and drive your Cummins.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Water in fuel, no lube, birth control in water, round-up, budlight. Help.

Also a good bit of intel i came across for anyone looking to add an extra fuel filter but wants a heater,
check out the aftermarket filter head for duramaxes, has one built in. Also a bleed port. Emphasis on aftermarket,
it addressed some leaking issues.

Anyone put magnets on their filters?

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Additional info and tips/solutions:


Water
AC Delco made by Racor.

From Parker-Racor:
Today’s sensitive high-pressure diesel fuel injection systems demand complete removal of damaging water and solid contaminants. At the same time, fuel additives mixed with diesel and biodiesel have made fuel contaminant and water removal more challenging than ever before. The Racor GreenMAX™ Series integrated fuel filter/water separator provides the protection you need in a harsh fuel world. It can accommodate fuel flows up to 150 gph (568 lpm), and features optional heating features for use in extreme cold environments.

GreenMAX fuel filters offer efficient removal of both bulk and emulsified water, low restriction of fuel flow, and high dirt-holding capacity. At the heart of the system is progressive, dual-stage coalescing and filtration delivered by the patented Aquabloc® filter element, which is available in “2”, 10 or 30 micron.
Note 2 is in parentheses.

Aquabloc® Depth Coalescer media is also available as an option. It was developed for OEM customers who require unsurpassed emulsified water removal efficiency in poor quality and biodiesel blended fuels. Depth Coalescers use a multi-stage system consisting of a primary element where fuel and emulsified water flow through several engineered layers of ultra-fine and densely packed fibers. These fibers attract the emulsified water from the fuel, allowing fine water droplets to form along the fibers as the fuel and water pass through.
As the fine water droplets emerge from the other side, a final screen “release” layer gathers the water drops into larger sizes. Next, a secondary element presents a final barrier media, which stops and gathers the water droplets until they are large enough to fall into the bowl. Particulate capture takes place throughout the primary stage.

More from Racor at the bottom of page
6600RDC - Fuel Filter / Water Separator with Integrated Fuel Heater – Racor GreenMAX™ Series | Parker NA

Water in fuel is a common issue caused by moisture getting into your diesel tank through a vent or fill point by condensation, or contamination from the fuel source. The air in the fuel tank expands in warm conditions and is forced out of the tank vent, but when temperatures go down the cold air is sucked in which creates water droplets on the tank walls.

Whilst all fuel can suffer from water contamination, the increasing bio-content in today’s diesel means that these water levels are more problematic than ever before. Biodiesel naturally contains some water content. This, combined with the fact that it is hygroscopic, meaning it attracts and holds onto water, makes it an even more likely victim of such contamination.




  • Free water – As its name suggests, free water is present within the tank but exists completely separate to the fuel. It sinks to the bottom of the tank, creating a layer of water under the fuel. It is here that diesel bug often grows which puts your equipment, vehicles and engines at risk.
  • Suspended water – Now, it is this type of water contamination that is responsible for your cloudy diesel fuel. Suspended water is that which is bound to the fuel molecules and is essentially mixed in with the fuel making it appear cloudy. As the diesel becomes so full of water that it can hold no more it starts dropping free water out to the bottom of the tank.
  • Emulsified water - Under pressure changes, agitation and heavy cavitation, often experienced as the fuel passes through pumps and filters, the water content can become completely emulsified turning it from cloudy to milky diesel fuel. This is where there is almost no separation between the fuel molecules and water content.
Regularly replacing filters
The first contaminated diesel fuel symptoms that you are likely to notice when contamination becomes an issue is your fuel filters getting full more quickly than normal. Since the filters are designed to catch and hold water, if you have a large problem with water in your fuel, you will end up replacing your filters more often. The other cause of blocked filters could be the presence of nasty sludge.
The appearance of sludge or “diesel bug”
Foot valve

A nasty brown or black sludge is a key indicator that water contamination in your diesel fuel has got to the next stage in causing a problem for you. The area between the fuel and water is the perfect environment for the growth of bacteria known as “diesel bug”. Over time the bacteria grow and feed creating colonies that become very difficult to break up, resulting in the sludge. So, when changing your filter, don’t forget to check for traces of sludge and find if you have a problem with water contamination.
The nasty sludge the diesel bugs produce can end up blocking filters and damaging your pumping system.

Tank corrosion
The final contaminated diesel fuel symptom is rust and tank corrosion which usually indicates a serious problem. If contamination is not dealt with and left to worsen, diesel bug will eventually start to eat away at the tank. Check your tank for rust, cracks and holes.
Engine issues
Once the contaminated fuel gets into your vehicle, you may start experiencing issues such as power loss, spluttering and involuntary speed changes. These are signs that the fuel isn’t burning as it should do because of the water, or perhaps because the sludge is restricting fuel flow to the engine.
Corrosion of the fuel system
This may occur as water contamination in diesel fuel become more serious, and water corrodes engine components. The reduced lubricity can also cause premature wear and damage injectors. This problem is difficult to be detected in the early stages as it develops over time, so you need to act early.
Fuel inefficiency
You may also notice your fuel economy is reduced and are getting less miles/output per gallon. This is because the water in fuel reduces the CETANE level of fuel, which can prevent the fuel from burning as it should.

Just like an old locomotive, beyond any other problem water in your fuel system causes, is if it reaches your injectors.
Injectors are like your urethra, it only wants certain fluids to flow thru, and in a perfect world that would be all that happens. But things can build up to the point where it can cause anything from a little bad burn, up to your head (injector tip) breakng off and exploding.
In the case of the injector tip, this is caused by the high pressures vaporizing the water into steam and reaching extreme pressure, boom like an old steam train blowing the top off.

Why is there more water in our fuel?
The use of water-in-fuel emulsions is a rapidly expanding due to tightened environmental regulations and the tougher competition in the transportation market. The ultrasonic emulsification technology enables for a more efficient use of fuels, such as heavy fuels or diesel, by mixing water into the base fuel. Ultrasonically emulsified water-fuels provide a more complete combustion and a more economic fuel consumption, whilst burning the fuels with fewer emissions! Water-in-Fuel Emulsion. The combustion of fuels generates hazardous gasses, such as nitrous oxides (NOx), hydrocarbons (HC), carbon monoxide (CO), carbon dioxide (CO2) as well as particulate matter (PM), soot and smoke, which are harmful to human health and environment. The emission of those pollutants can be significantly reduced by adding water to the fuel. The addition of 5 – 25% water to the fuel, such as heavy fuel oil or diesel, can reduce the emisson of hazardous pollutants drastically. The injected water reduces the local adiabatic combustion temperature. Studies have proven that thereby the emission of NOx can be lowered by up to 40%, CO2 by 5% – 15% and PM by up to 90%. Black smoke from diesel combustion can be completely eliminated as the fuel is burned completely. At the same time, the fuel consumption can be reduced by approx. 5%. Save the environment and save fuel! Emulsifiable fuels include liquid hydrocarbons, crude, heavy fuels (HFO), naphtha, kerosene, diesel, heating oils, biodiesel and vegetable oils.

Injector life is reduced by about half with a water content of 0.05% (500 ppm) compared to 0.02% (200 ppm) ppm. Water content should optimally stay under 0.02%. When fuel contains up to 0.05% it will begin to show a haze. Water content at or above 0 .05% will cause damage to the fuel injection system. Moisture will also adversely affect the lubricating properties of diesel fuel by displacing the fuel.


Tips and standard solutions:
  • Keep your tank full: Top off your tank as often as possible to limit humid air accumulation and condensation formation. Also something to keep in mind is if you fill your tank up whenever it reaches about halfway, you reduce the chance of getting an entirely bad fillup since it will be halfway diluted with your previous fuel. If you have a secondary return filtration system like the FASS or similar, this method in combination with the others im recommending almost guarantees you wont be doing any emergency tank draining ever.
  • Use a secondary water separator. If you have no idea what this is, how to do it, or which one to get, comment or msg. me or pretty much anyone here and we will help you.
  • Add a tank breather filter.
  • Add a drop in absorber.
  • Check your fuel supply and find somewhere else if they suck. I'll explain how to do this soon.
Came across this on a boating forum or w.e. it is
Fuel breather vent desiccant moisture separator | Bloodydecks (bdoutdoors.com)


Tank breathers:
The air being pulled into the tank in is not clean. It contains particulates and moisture that condenses on the tank walls. This water forms droplets and migrates to the tank bottom where it accumulates in the bottom of the tank. This air also contains organic components (micro-organisms, bacterial growth, fungal growth, enzyme activity, yeast, mold, pollen and other microbial organic components), and dirt, grit, and other particulates, all of which, in their own special way, contribute to:
  • fuel degradation
  • clogged fuel filters
  • excessive exhaust smoke
  • component failure (fuel pumps and injectors)
  • formation of acids
  • floating debris in the tank
  • sludge build-up in the tank
  • foul odors emitting from the tank
Options for tank breathers:
Desiccant breathers are one of the most cost effective methods of protection for contamination control. Breathers are an integral piece to any fluid lubrication, hydraulic system, or storage tank. Breathers provide protection from moisture and particulate contamination in harsh operating environments. The best operations & maintenance practices focus on preventing contaminants from entering their equipment, rather than trying to remove contaminants after damage has already occurred. As most equipment and machines are designed to “breathe,” protecting the inflow of ambient air is vital for protection and reliable operation. Contaminants and moisture will enter equipment as temperature, pressure, and fluid level changes occur. To prevent contaminants from entering your equipment, a desiccant breather should be used.
Desiccant breathers are multi-tiered devices installed on your machines to prevent the entry of two crucial contaminants: moisture and particles. Since we know at least half of lubricant contamination comes from outside machinery and most machines are designed to “breathe,” it’s a good idea to stop these contaminants at the source. Enter desiccant breathers.

A desiccant is defined as a hygroscopic substance (material that attracts and holds water molecules) that induces or sustains a state of dryness in its vicinity. Have you ever opened a box of new shoes or a packet of beef jerky and seen those little packets labeled “do not eat”? Those packets contain silica gel, which is a desiccant. Other types of desiccants are used as well.

Option A: Zeozorb by drytech. (disposable) Price unknown atm.
This company makes their own proprietary desiccant that maintains absorption rate over the life of the breather,
and does not regenerate in higher temperatures (above 100f for us Southerners). Regeneration is when the desiccant releases its moisture, potentially into the fuel tank.
Pros: *Their breather filters exiting air so it doesnt contaminate the desiccant material, extending the desiccant lifespan.
* Claims it filters down to less than 100 PPM.
* Features (2) diffusion filters, an activated carbon filter, 3 micron PTFEfilter, and 100 micron stainless steel filter.
* The breathers will only breathe over 0.3 PSI.
* Breathers feature a standard 1″ slip fit which easily adapts to many applications.
* When maximum adsorption is reached, the blue indicating ZEOLITE beads will turn from blue to beige, to indicate that a replacement is required.

Cons: Doesnt seem to be repackable or offer a repackable option.
Though the more i look i think the repackables are expensive AF so i'll get back to yall on that.


Next: DC-1 3 micron disposable (AA0781) $51
All the intel on these can be found here:


Next: H2out. Like 50 bucks.
Disposable it seems, not much info.


Finally, i have a sample test breather coming from one company, we'll see what it looks like if and when it gets here.


Drop in ideas:
Drop in crystal aborbers:

Cool stuff i just found: Both seem to be around 40 bucks. Some versions are reusable a few times.

Tank snake:
Diesel Tank Snake Instant Water Absorber - : (b3cfuel.com)



Aquafighter:
Aquafighter fuel tank water absorber: The complete solution | CTS (centretank.com)




Significant problems start when water separates from diesel and becomes free or emulsified water. Emulsified water is another form of free water; the droplets are simply so small as so well mixed into the fuel that they remain suspended rather than dropping to the bottom. There are no "droplets" when water is fully dissolved in fuel.




Diesel fuel will always contain a certain percentage of water. The goal is to keep water levels within acceptable limits, well below the saturation point. Removing excessive water from fuel can be a challenge; therefore, the most effective approach is to take every reasonable measure to prevent water from entering your tank and monitor it regularly. This way the need for water removal can be kept to a minimum. In order to develop a good water management strategy, it is important to understand how to measure water content and evaluate the results.
The Problem
Water has always caused rust and corrosion of fuel system components and infrastructure. Modern fuel systems are much less tolerant than lower pressure systems, that manufacturers now specify zero free water must reach the engine.
Direct Damage Caused by Water
Water causes damage to both fuel tanks and engine parts. Rust and corrosion in the tank create hard particulate that is passed along in the fuel, causing engine wear. Component life is also shortened by water etching, erosion, cavitation and spalling, such as:
Rust: In contact with iron and steel surfaces water produces iron oxide (rust). Rust particles that get into the fuel, like other hard particulates, will cause abrasive wear to parts. Premature wear can cause part failures.

Corrosion: Corrosion is one of the most common causes of injector problems. Water combines with acids in the fuel to corrode both ferrous and non-ferrous metals. This is made worse when abrasion exposes fresh metal surfaces that readily corrode. The injector shown on the right was installed new but failed in under 300 hours due to rapid corrosion.
Abrasion: Water has lower viscosity than diesel, therefore providing less of a lubricating "cushion" between the opposing surfaces of moving parts. This leads to increased abrasive wear.
Etching: Etching is caused by water-induced fuel degradation which produces hydrogen sulfide and sulfuric acid that "eat" metal surfaces.

Pitting and Cavitation: Pitting is caused by free water flashing on hot metal surfaces. Cavitation is caused by vapor bubbles rapidly contracting (imploding) when exposed to sudden high pressure, which causes them to condense back into a liquid. These water droplets impact a small area with great force, causing surface fatigue and erosion.
Spalling: Occurs due to hydrogen embrittlement and pressure. Water is forced into microscopic cracks in metal surfaces. Then, under extreme pressure, it decomposes and releases hydrogen in a “mini-explosion” which enlarges the cracks and creates wear particles.
Ice: Free water in fuel can freeze, creating ice crystals that behave just like any other hard particulate. They can create wear in fuel systems and (in large volumes) clog fuel filters. A fuel filter's job is to protect the engine by stopping hard particulate. Engines and filters do not differentiate between dirt and ice. Damage caused by ice can be hard to correctly diagnose since the ice will melt and disappear long before a lab examination can occur.
Indirect Damage Caused by Water
Water also contributes to or aggravates a number of additional issues, like the following:
Soft Solids: Water is polar. Certain chemicals in additives are polar. Hydrocarbons are non-polar. This means that water and polar chemicals are attracted to each other. In the presence of free water, the chemical molecules will sometimes disassociate themselves from the hydrocarbon chain of the additive and combine with water molecules to form a new substance. The new material is a soft solid that precipitates out of the fuel and can rapidly clog filters or create engine deposits. See additive stability for more information.
Microbial Growth: Like most living organisms, bacteria and fungi (molds) need both food and water to survive. If free water is present microbial growth can proliferate, creating slimes that foul your fuel and acids that corrode your tank and fuel system.
Fuel Oxidation: Free water accelerates the oxidation process and encourages the formation of acids, gums and sediments known generally as fuel degradation products.

Forms of Water in Diesel
All diesel contains some percentage of dissolved water. The water molecules remain part of the fuel until there are too many of them. The point at which the fuel can hold no more water is called the saturation point. The quantity of water in fuel is measured in ppm (parts per million). As long as the water stays below the saturation point as dissolved water it is typically not too much of an issue. Significant problems start when water separates from diesel and becomes free or emulsified water. Emulsified water is another form of free water; the droplets are simply so small as so well mixed into the fuel that they remain suspended rather than dropping to the bottom. There are no "droplets" when water is fully dissolved in fuel.
How Does Water Get into Fuel?
Water can come from a wide variety of sources, some of which can be extremely difficult to control.
  • On delivery from supplier
  • Free water fall-out (beyond saturation point)
  • Condensation in tank
  • Leakage into tank (rain, pressure washing, ground water...)
  • Ingress from atmosphere (humidity)
  • Human error (unprotected vents, fill ports, seals...)
The Solution
Measuring Water Content

There are several methods for measuring water content in fuel. Some are done in a laboratory, some can be done onsite. It is important to understand the type of information these different tests can provide. Perhaps the most common method for testing for water in fuel tanks is to "dip" the tank using a special indicator paste on a long dip stick. This method is fast, easy and can be done on site, it will tell you if there is free water in the tank bottom.
Water monitors (sensors) can be installed inline and give reliable real time results. They measure the dissolved water content in fuel and return the relative humidity of the diesel as a percentage. The maximum result is 100%, meaning that the fuel has reached its saturation point and can hold no more water in solution. This test method will not tell you how much free water there is in the tank.
The Karl Fischer titration method is a laboratory test used since 1935 for determining water content in a fluid sample. The test is highly precise and requires only a small sample size. It detects even small amounts of dissolved water, down to about 50 ppm in diesel fuel. It can measure water content both below and above saturation level (dissolved and free water). In laboratory practice it can be used to determine water saturation level of fuel under different conditions. While laboratory tests are typically more precise than field tests, they can be much less accurate. This may seem confusing. The reason that the laboratory test may be less accurate is that the sample itself may have changed between the time it was taken from the tank and the time it is tested in the lab.
One of the characteristics of diesel is that it holds more water in saturation when it is warm compared to when it is cold. If the diesel in your tank is cold it may be over the saturation point. In this case there will be free water entering your equipment, which can cause huge problems. If you send this same sample to a lab, it will likely be warmer in the lab than in your tank. The fuel will warm up, the water will go back into solution, and it may look like you have no problem at all. The same sort of diagnosis difficulties can happen with ice crystal problems. The "evidence" goes away at room temperature.

How Much Water is Ok?
The easiest answer would be none. But this is neither practical nor realistic. All diesel contains some percentage of water. The most important thing is to keep the water below its saturation point so that it stays dissolved rather than entering your equipment as free water. Equipment manufacturers specify that zero free water must reach the engine. Saturation points vary from roughly 50 ppm to 1800 ppm based on temperature and on the petro diesel/biodiesel ratio. As you can see on the chart, biodiesel can hold significantly more water in saturation than than its petro equivalent. Blending bio and petro diesel together, however, does not result in a mathematically proportional moisture content. The blend will hold less in solution that the sum of the parts, meaning that free water precipitation may occur when the two are mixed.
How to Prevent Free Water in Fuel
In order to understand how to keep water out, one must first understand how it gets in. Water can come from a wide variety of sources, some of which can be extremely difficult to control.
On delivery from supplier: Diesel is relatively clean and dry when it leaves the refinery, yet diesel deliveries will include variable amounts of water. The quantity of water you receive from your supplier depends largely on circumstance and handling practices. What can you control? Beyond potentially switching suppliers or negotiating a contract which puts the burden on the distributor, you can try the following:
  • Be delivered first, you don't want the water & contaminants that settle to the tank bottom.
  • Install a water removal system at the inlet to your bulk tank.
Ingress from atmosphere: Just like the air, diesel has a relative humidity, and the two tend to equalize. Meaning, if the air is more humid than the fuel, then the fuel will absorb moisture from the air. If, however, the air is dryer than the fuel, then moisture will evaporate back up into the air until the relative humidity of both is equal.
Free water fall-out: Diesel holds a certain amount of water in solution (i.e. dissolved water). When water content goes over the saturation point, the excess water will fall out as free water. This occurs when the total water content increases or when the diesel cools. Your diesel may hold 90 ppm dissolved water when warm, but only 60 ppm when it cools down due to colder weather. The 30 ppm difference falls out as free water and settles to the bottom of the tank.
Condensation in tank: When it is warmer outside the tank than it is inside, condensation will form and this "sweat" will enter the fuel. This can occur over and over, creating more free water each time.
Leakage into tank: Rain, pressure washing or ground water can all be sources of water getting into a damaged or improperly sealed tank. Inground tanks (at filling stations, for example) can sometimes have inlets below grade. The area around the cap can easily fill with rain water. If the water level is above the cap when removed, gravity will cause the water to flow right down into the tank.

Removing Water from Fuel
Water removal is easier in regions with over 500 ppm sulfur diesel than it is with ULSD (under 15ppm sulfur). The filter skid to the left, for example, was designed for use in South Africa, where it is quite effective. Coalescers and water separators function much more effectively in higher sulfur fuels. This is because higher sulfur diesel needs much less additive and, subsequently, contains far less surfactant.
Surfactant is a soapy substance that coats over coalescing/water separating medias, severely compromising their performance.
The increased amount of surfactant in ULSD disables coalescing media, rendering its effectiveness questionable at best.
Manufacturers publish filter efficiency based on the current industry test standards. The current standards were developed a number of years ago and are designed for lab comparison testing using a consistently treated fuel. This works well for comparison testing, but does not necessarily reflect filter efficiency in real world conditions. To treat ULSD fuel for lab testing, the standards require the removal of all surfactants. In the real world, ULSD with surfactant removed (AKA additives) would destroy engines. All ULSD that is fit for use in equipment contains additives and surfactant, therefore the fuel itself effectively disables coalescing filters.
So while you will probably not see a decrease in published coalescer efficiency levels, what you will notice in literature is the increased mention of water absorbers. Companies that still market coalescers to ULSD areas very frequently now mention the necessity of adding water absorbers after the coalescer. There is no other way to ensure that free water has been removed.
Unfortunately, the best way to remove large volumes of settled water is to drain the tank. Very straightforward, but not cheap or convenient. Ambient moisture and condensation can be prevented from entering the diesel through the use of good desiccant breathers in combination with a blanket of dry air (or nitrogen) fed into the tank's headspace and out through the breather. As explained earlier, the relative humidity of the diesel will tend toward the relative humidity (or "dryness") of the air. Moisture in the diesel will, with time, be released back into the dry air until the diesel is just as dry as the air.
The key to good fuel water management is to minimize dissolved water content and eliminate all free water.



Bubble formation and scale dependence in free-surface air entrainment | Scientific Reports (nature.com)

Sick more coming soon will keep editing plz lmk if yall see anything wrong so far good info ill get back to work on it later.
 

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#2 ·
#3 ·
I run this dual setup on mine. 2003-2012 Cummins | DFFK
Very easy to install kit.
Been a few years since I installed mine, I see they've switched to the new fleetguard filters now which I haven't priced out, personally I run the Donaldson P551313 fuel filter and Baldwin BF1212 water separator but according to them the fleetguard are now the best filtration available. The filter heads sit right in front of your fuel tank and are really easy to change. I run a Baldwin filter in the stock location and I only change it every other time I change my aux filters, surprisingly it does still slowly get dirty.

The only additives I run is powerservice white bottle in winter temps, and powerservice silver bottle in the summer. Some have had good luck with 2 stroke oil and I'm considering trying that myself.
 
#4 · (Edited)
AH64ID our fuel filter pro. Someone who knows how to work the forums tag or msg. him plz.
I know theres plenty other knowledgeable people here, dont know their names.

What are your thoughts on this testing:
FASS Fuel Filters vs. The Competion: 3rd Party Test Results - FASS Diesel Fuel Systems (fassride.com)
They did the FS1212 which is what im mainly concerned with, your top recommendation.
If the FS1212 and the info ive been reading about it is outdated thats understandable.
2023 and our fuel quality here in the Southeast anyways is trash. Pops already had to take his new Colorado Duramax in twice for water in fuel.

Stock Baldwin 7977.

Have we had any filter updates recently, a lot of what im reading is old now.

How does the Parker/Racor PFF54529 compare to the FS1212? A depth coalescer.

Fleetguard FF5814 vs Donaldson P551313?

So..im deep off in the rabbit hole of fuel filters, AH64ID and others what do you think about this thread?
(2) Fuel Filter CAT | Cummins Diesel Forum (cumminsforum.com)

How do our top picks add up compared to what fits the FASS system?
Filter Cross Reference Sheet for Diesel Fuel Pumps - FASS Diesel Fuel Systems (fassride.com)
Sent them an email to see if their universal class 8/tractor setups are the ones that run the 1 1/2-16 thread size.
So we can compare them as well, id run a bigger setup if it meant better filters.

Another side question, in regards to filters, anyone know about screw-on transmission filters?

Also what fuel additives are yall running now?

Water in fuel, no lubricity, birth control in water, round-up, budlight. Help.

Also a good bit of intel i came across for anyone looking to add an extra fuel filter but wants a heater, check out the aftermarket filter head for duramaxes, has one built in. Also a bleed port.
He has not been active since 2021 but i can message him on the other forum where he is very active and get him to help you out
 
#5 ·
I haven’t seen that test yet, but will look at it later today. Both FASS and AD have run some pretty poor filters over the years, so I’d be curious to see what filters were used for the test. I’d guess the best FASS has offered and the worst AD offered, but that’s a guess at this point.

My preferred f/w sep is the Baldwin BF1212, it has great specs.

The best secondary fuel filter is either the FF5814 or DBF5814.

The P551313 and Cat 1R-0750 are both of an older media design and not as good. The P551313 is better than the cat (thou tons of places still advertise it on old specs as gods gift to filtration).
 
#6 ·
I haven’t seen that test yet, but will look at it later today. Both FASS and AD have run some pretty poor filters over the years, so I’d be curious to see what filters were used for the test. I’d guess the best FASS has offered and the worst AD offered, but that’s a guess at this point.

My preferred f/w sep is the Baldwin BF1212, it has great specs.

The best secondary fuel filter is either the FF5814 or DBF5814.

The P551313 and Cat 1R-0750 are both of an older media design and not as good. The P551313 is better than the cat (thou tons of places still advertise it on old specs as gods gift to filtration).
Do you know where you can get either the FF5814 or the DBF5814 in a multipack discount? That's the reason I still run the P551313 because I can buy a 3 or 6 pack at a time for way less than individually.
 
#7 ·
I have not ever seen them in bull packaging, but I also haven’t looked for them since I sold my 05 in 2019.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Thanks gsbrockman.
zwilmes
yeah im definitely keeping the stock filter/separator for sure. Power service thats what ive been running as well. Wondering if anyone has done any good research for our specific trucks before i start lol.
Ive seen some guys use biodiesel, a tiny amount like 1-2%.
Same with oil, until im get some good research done, im going with what the guys with mods pushing 300-400k+ miles are running..so far zinc seems to be a common denominator but i havent started that topic yet so we'll see.
H3LZSN1P3R good look thnx bro.
AH64ID Yeah im thinking they were just running whatever since they figured no1 really took the time to worry about what filters, kinda blind faith in them type of deal. Either that or they couldnt get the better filters to rebrand at the time. On that note i think baldwin makes their fs and donaldson makes their ff? Or did anyways idk if thats current now.
Yeah the duramax guys are running the 5814 as far as i can see within the past 5 years. Havent dug too deep into that yet though.
Seen this vid? Bing Videos oil filters yeah but hey...odd stuff im wondering if dude got a knock-off..careful where you order from theres a lot of knock-offs these days, heck they got knockoff airdog's and holset turbo's lol which is a cluster-f because i think half of holset turbo's are made in china but china is also putting out knock-offs as well?..lol. Funny thing is i hear theyre good, someone stole the specs and started their own factory lmao..now holset has this genuine verification program but its too late the fakes are everywhere and they cant stop china lol.
brooklyn 12 any updates on what your running now?

In these tests im looking at the initial first past, what are yall seeing?
I think my next step is to figure out what exactly the new FASS filters are.
 
#9 ·
If anyone knows the newer model guys that might be down to dig out some details maybe we can work together tag them that would be much appreciated.
Older model guys as well im sure theres a couple in there that care about their fuel as well. Seeing as we're all probably running the same thread sizes now. I assume the newer model guys probably have more up to date intel though.
 
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#10 · (Edited)
For future reference am i allowed to advertise on here?
 
#11 ·
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#12 · (Edited)
Alright cool thnx. Sick truck man.
 
#13 ·
If you want to make a name for yourself on the forum, do things that people don't like to do.

Tackle hard projects and do technical write ups with lots of pictures. Be thorough in your write ups and explanations of what you did. There were a lot of good write ups back in the day, but they were always missing the completeness, the tricks that make working on these trucks easier. It's extremely expensive to send your truck to any shop for maintenance. More and more people want these type of write ups that walk then through projects so they can save money.

Showcase your work. Whatever it be, post a thread about it. Explain why you designed something the way you did. Show how it works, in action. Explain to people what you did to determine it's robust enough to not fail on these trucks when in use. If it fails...post about it. Why did it fail? What are your plans so this won't happen again?

To be honest, the forums don't need more "what's the best" type of posts. They get lost and they're hard to search for. If it's good enough of a post, it will get stickied in a tech section. For example, instead of this thread how you've started it, maybe make your own dual filter setup. It's been done a lot, be we like to see what people come up with. Instead of trying to make a list of filters, from your research, explain why you chose the filters you did. That in itself can spark good technical conversation. It also allows people to pick apart your designs for future improvements.

You start doing things like this and bring some knowledge to the table that is useful and isn't repeated information that's been gone over before, you'll start to earn a name in no time.
 
#14 · (Edited)
Heck yeah ty bro alright. Yeah i've been working on a new post for the past few days on my own oil system im building + why the bypass kits everyone are using might not be good.
Over time everyone will know i dont half ass i want it perfect. I put a lot into whatever im doing and im not gonna put my stamp on it unless its right.
If anyone has a problem they need help with or an idea theyre unsure about dont hesitate to contact me.
Anything i put out i will most definitely work with anyone to clarify, improve on etc.
Yeah save money and also make sure its done right. Waiting to hear back from a post im active in where a guy took his truck to the tuner for an update, and they gave it back to him with codes and not running, with odd electrical issues and supposedly mismatching VINs between different circuits. After 3 weeks they have apparently given up on him..
You are right i will post more details when i finish. Fair warning ill be slow i have a lot im working on so just hang with me.
If something i promote ever amounts to anything i will travel to showcase it if need be, but yeah ill definitely get into making videos and all here soon.
Whatever anyone needs help with i am here.
Right now i am working on water in fuel.
 
#15 ·
Just out of curiosity, where are you getting all this information? I haven't seen any sources, documents, testing, or any links to where you're pulling this from? Not to be harsh, but this just looks like copy-paste to me.
 
#16 ·
Alright im adding links and stuff. Bare with me until its done it may be a couple weeks im pretty busy, i want it up though so everyone can follow along, correct me, add stuff im missing you know all that.
 
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