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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i was talking with a guy who drove a big dump truck the other day and he was saying that the only time that they ever use the clutch in the big trucks is stopping and taking off....


he said that going between gears just gettin down the road that if you found the right rpm you dont have to clutch it... then he pointed at my truck and said hell you could do it in your truck too.... ????????

anyone ever tried to do this, or does anyone do it?????

seems to me like you would hear god awful grinding noises.... someone fill me in!
 

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It is possible, I have done it myself, especially when my last clutch was going out. BUT, I have been told it will eventually wear out your syncronizers fast. Upshifting is easy, downshifting is a little more complicated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
huh definatly seems interesting.... about what rpm were you at do you recall??
 

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I used to do it with my gasser all the time, not with this one, but you can do it at your normal shift points, throttle up to your normal shift point, let off the gas, shift, it may take a second to go into the higher gear, you have to keep firm pressure but don't jam it, then throttle again.
 

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for trannies that have syncro's this is called hot shifting. cogs is right that doing this will burn up the syncro's and if your not carefull you could easily blow one apart if you hop onto the throttle when the selector block is not fully engaged.

both my yoda and my dodge are sticks and I can do it in both, however to make sure I get the longest life possible I go ahead and clutch it.

the freight shaker I used to drive I would only hit 2-3 gears with the clutch depending on load, past that is was just throttle management and light even pressure on the stick to shift up and down. when coming to a stop I would usualy pop it out of gear without the clutch right as the RPM's came to idle in 3rd or 2nd once again depending on load.

but once again the trannies that go into those trucks dont have syncro's. due to the size of the gears even the carbon fiber syncro's used in the NV5600 would wear out in a few thousand miles.
 

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That is how i drove my 12v and after 476k miles i had only replaced clutch once and trans was fine
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ok cool well i guess thats cool to know, however i dont think ill plan on doin it hahah
 

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It's a lot easier with a RoadRanger in a big truck, these smaller transmissions tend not to like it and aren't as forgiving
 

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i did it all the time with my buddy in his 01, never hurt it at all. when up shifting, as yo are letting off the throttle start to pull it out of gear, when you are out keep some tension on the shifter and it should slide in a sec or two after. easy as pie.
 

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I float em about 40% of the time depending on where im driving and what size of load i got behind me but theres no grindin and mine still runnin strong
 

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That's the only way I drove my Freightshaker and Pete. When I was 'test driving' a 05 dually with a 6 speed I tried it out to see how well she took it. I got a little scratching the first couple of shifts, after that it was smooth sailing. I had the truck for 2 days test driving it, only reason I didnt buy it was because of a smoking issue.
 

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I do it in my 03 too. no problem until fifth sometimes, but floats right other gears fine. Once rpms drop to match higher gear, should drop right in.
 

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done it since i bought it 60% of the time if you are patient you wont have any problems
 

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2006 2500 4x4, spinny wooshy thing, bigger sticks, toothpick trans, wallet weight reduction mod.
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Aren't the big rig gears faceplated instead of using synchros?
 

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i usually shift around 1,800 - 2,000 rpms to the next higher gear. For downshifting i wait for the engine rpms to be around 1500, go into neutral, bring engine rpms to 2,00 then select lower gear. you will find your sweetpot eventually, i find on mine to go into netraul while down shifting if i momentarly give a TINY, TINY, TINY blip of the throttle neutral is easier to find. 85,000 miles with me doing it for 45,00 no problems. it is a bit harder in the colder weather due to your oil being thicker, but once shes warmed up no problems at all
 

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on eaton, eaton fuller, spicer, or whatever truck trans they use. Only the auxilary box is synchronized. Meaning you splitter gears or you range selector gears. AdamRRT what do u mean by faceplated?
 

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Another thing about the big trucks is that there gears are straight cut. Much more stronger than our NV's helical cut gears. If you have never done this before I don't know if I would want to start out on a pick up first. Very easy to chip teeth off the gears and wear break stuff. JMO
 

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actually helical cut gears are stronger than straight cut gears. on straight cut gears you have only one tooth makin full contact with another tooth for a very short period of time, helical cut gears have 3 teeth in full contact at all times, think of a read end differential setup. truck trans gears are always engaged but floatin on the primary shaft until the dog clutch engages the gear to the primary shaft. truck transmisions also have two countershaft instead of one like ours do.
 
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