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Need to install flatbed on 2017 3500 cc long bed dually. Installer told me today because i have the factor installed gooseneck puck system installed from the factor the standard bed was a no can do. He stated the factor gooseneck is welded in and can't be removed. Is he right? This is a trailer store that just started selling beds. I was looking at a cm regular non skirted bed. Does anyone have any real first hand knowledge. Thank you
 

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The crossmember, if I remember correctly should have a provision for a specific gooseneck plate. I don’t see how that effects a flat bed
 
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Call more upfitters. I've built several flatbeds before the puck models and I don't know what they look like. Does that OEM welded mount extend above the frame rails. I've built beds spaced up to clear immoveable obstacles or flat down on the frame to keep the deck low as possible. It probably depends on the craftiness of the installer. Craig
 

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Cab and Chassis don't have the puck system (are the frame rails straight on top?) Does your truck currently have a standard bed (if so he may be right). Had a 2011 and currently a 2018 c&c (both with a CM bed).
 

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Assuming you have the pickup & not cab & chassis -
The 17 Ram pickup frame has a cross member, just under the bed above the rear axle that is made for installing a bolt in gooseneck hitch. See this link for a look at the cross member and how the hitch installs. “https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_MAZKpNIudA”
The Ram pickup frame is not straight, it kicks up over the rear axle. Additionally the top of the rear shock absorbers attach to brackets that are at the highest point on the frame and stick up another 1 1/2" or so.
Because of the aforementioned the flatbeds made by the manufactures that I looked at (Bradford, Hillsboro, CM & several others) sit farther above the frame then you would expect. Additionally they don’t make use of the Ram cross member for the bolt in gooseneck hitch. Instead the gooseneck hitch / receiver is built into their flatbed. Maybe not a big deal but I preferred my hitch attach to the truck frame as designed and not be attached to the flatbed that was attached to the frame.
In addition to gooseneck trailers I tow a 5th wheel a lot and got tired of climbing / leaning up and over the bed rail and then reaching in to hitch / unhitch the 5th wheel.
I wanted a flatbed as low as possible and utilizing the integral gooseneck hitch mount built as part of the Ram frame. Since I couldn't find what I looking for, about a year ago I had an aluminum flatbed built and installed on the 2017 in my signature. The deck sits a couple of inches closer to the frame than the off the shelf flatbeds, the fuel fill is under a hatch on the deck and the goose neck hitch sits in a well that is about 4" deep. Note B&W has a 1-2" taller version of their gooseneck ball.
 

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I started on building a flatbed for my 3500 pickup, but seeing this mess, and being spoiled by the straight frame rails on the cab and chassis, I gave up.
It's mostly the brackets for the 5th wheel pucks/shocks that make it less than pleasant. Not that it's not doable, but more work than I had time for.
 

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I started on building a flatbed for my 3500 pickup, but seeing this mess, and being spoiled by the straight frame rails on the cab and chassis, I gave up.
It's mostly the brackets for the 5th wheel pucks/shocks that make it less than pleasant. Not that it's not doable, but more work than I had time for.
I used to build truck bodies. Yes getting your main frame built would take a little bit more then the straight frame of a CC. However once that part is done the rest would be straight forward and not take that much more time.

I get the time constraint issue but the extra couple hours to get started wouldn't stop me from building what I wanted.

A picture from the side would tell more of the story on what is involved.
 

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Here is a picture off my flatbed as it is being built.

You can see how much the upper shock tower rises above the frame if you look just to the right and below the man’s right hand. Note that is 3” channel
 

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I get the time constraint issue but the extra couple hours to get started wouldn't stop me from building what I wanted.

A picture from the side would tell more of the story on what is involved.
I'm no good at this kind of stuff, either, so when trying to get all the heights and mounting points to work out while accommodating a camper and the B&W hitch, I gave up and built a "camper tray" for the cab and chassis instead.

At least those brackets for the pucks came in handy for mounting temporary fenders.
 

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The way flatbeds were made, with the gooseneck hitch built into the bed, cant be used on the newer trucks.
CM for example, has 2013+ specific beds without a built in hitch. On my CM ER, the trough didn't even have a hole cut, the installer had to cut the hole for my factory ball.
 
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.............................. On my CM ER, the trough didn't even have a hole cut, the installer had to cut the hole for my factory ball.
The salesman that I talked to about the CM didn't seem to realize that or at least didn't communicate it.
How much above the hitch crossmember does the trough sit? and how wide is the trough?

I really liked the CM ER and was close to ordering one.
 

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Where are you? Call a real outfitter, not some fake trailer outfit. Google Commercial Bed Upfitters in your area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Man all the responces were great thanks a bunch. Your spot on the upfitter, it was a trailer stop that just started to sell beds 4 months ago. I am in Colorado and have called 5 plus different retailers. Yesterday talked to a guy from Casper Wyoming that sells Knapheide pgnb beds. They order the bed without the gooseneck box installed in the bed and leave the door to acess your factor gooseneck hitch. This way of installing the bed allows a lower deck height. Got prices from $3000-$6000 bed and install for a basic non skirted flatbed. Most had weight times of 4-12 weeks.
 

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They order the bed without the gooseneck box installed in the bed and leave the door to acess your factor gooseneck hitch. This way of installing the bed allows a lower deck height.
That's what I was about to suggest. Buy a bed to your liking and cut the box off.
Then weld in matching diamond plate with the necessary holes for the B&W hitch.

I removed the receiver from my CM, both to install a Torklift version and to make it easier to mount. That was on a cab and chassis, though.

Physically mounting the bed on a pickup is the biggest challenge, I think, as there weren't many factory holes in the frame to utilize, and I don't want to weld to it.
On the other hand, the highest forces would be put directly on the B&W, so bed mounting becomes less critical.

Actually, I have yet to see a truck bed mounted to my liking, which is why I made my own setup, that also doubles as a "quick disconnect" for the bed.
 
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