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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got a brand spankin new mega cab... Is the factory wax worth a poo, or should I put a few nice coats on in myself right away??
 

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I'd wait a few months - at least in the "old" days paint took at least that long to fully cure and harden. Today's paint might be different, but since I don't know, I'd wait. Also, if there is already any wax on it, the dealer must have done it. I doubt they come waxed new from the factory.

Hopefully someone that knows what they're talking about will chime in...:SMART:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah, I dont really know if it has any wax on it or not.. I DO know that the water beads off of it at the moment.. That may be some spray on coating that they use though.. I dont really know...
 

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The new paint will already be fully cured. A lot of dealerships put on a quick coat of wax or sealant as part of the dealer prep. I would reccomend using a clay bar first you would be suprised at how many contaminates it will remove from even a freshly painted vehicle. I would then use a light polish to get the paint in really top condition and the shine to pop. Then use the wax or sealant of choice. In my opinion the preparation of the paint prior to applying wax or sealant is more important than the wax or sealant used. Different waxes or sealants will change the appearance somewhat deep wetter etc etc. But most good waxes or sealants do not have fillers that cover up blemishes and some will even make blemishes in the paint stand out more.
 

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The new paint will already be fully cured. A lot of dealerships put on a quick coat of wax or sealant as part of the dealer prep. I would reccomend using a clay bar first you would be suprised at how many contaminates it will remove from even a freshly painted vehicle. I would then use a light polish to get the paint in really top condition and the shine to pop. Then use the wax or sealant of choice. In my opinion the preparation of the paint prior to applying wax or sealant is more important than the wax or sealant used. Different waxes or sealants will change the appearance somewhat deep wetter etc etc. But most good waxes or sealants do not have fillers that cover up blemishes and some will even make blemishes in the paint stand out more.
Good post. And I agree. Although a lot of high end waxes still will fill some blemishes, due to the natural oils in them, which is one reason the high end waxs are so high end. I always do a 50/50 Alc./h2o wipedown after polishing, to ensure no oils from the polish filled the blems, and to make sure they are removed before going to my LSP
 

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Id get out there and put on a heavy base paste. let that sit for about a week, then hit it with a high gloss polymer style wax for shine... followed by a fresh wash and dry of course.
 

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My truck had no water beading on it when I took deleivery 2 weeks ago. I washed it and put 2 coats of a super high quality sealer(Blackfire Wet Diamond) with 24 hour cure time in between. Then one coat of Wet Ice carnauba wax(Wet Ice over Fire). It is the deepest shine you will get. The paint sealer will stay on the truck for a year. make sure you put the sealer on first because sealer don't stick to wax. I done this same treatment to my BMW M6 Vert a year ago and it still beads like it was done yesterday. If your paint does bead then I would clay bar it to remove the wax or spray on whatever the dealer used to make it do that before sealing it. Hope that helped.
 
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