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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
okay so im really excited about starting to run WMO. i have a few sources to get decent clean oil from. i figure ill get a few 5 gallon buckets to put my waste oil when i get it, let it sit for about a week, get another tank/container of some sort, transfer the oil from the buckets through a sock filter(10 mic) into container #2 then pump from container #2 through a filter block with 5 and 2 micron filters into my 12 valve cummins.

My question is, when it sits in the buckets for a week, sludge goes to the bottom, water goes to the top?? where the heck do i pump it from? ive been told top, and ive been told bottom, middle? which one?!

I currently run ULSD adding ATF, PS grey, occaisionally 1-2 gallons of fuel oil from furnaces(i work for a heating company so its free when i do service on fuel oil furnaces). just want to get into running a little WMO, any input and advice would be appreciated thanks!
 

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Main thing to remember is to over filter. Whatever setup your thinking of, double it.
I've been doing it a while, only problems I've had is old lift pumps giving out.
My setup is 2 500 gallon propane tanks. I don't use pumps, I use shop air to pressurize the tanks, usually 30 psi, first on the filter setup is a 300 micron reuseable screen, then a 170 micron screen to catch the big stuff, then it goes thru 8 10 micron fuel filters, then at the end is 2 10 micron filters/water seperators. Never had a problem with clogging filters on the truck. Keep a spare just in case anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
im getting alot of mixed opinions on wmo and wvo. which in your experience is less of a risk of harming me engine or IP? i can get both, supply isnt a concern.
 

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I can't speak on wvo, never done it, never had access to any. It does sound like a lot more work and expense with the heated tanks and all on the truck.
I have an endless supply of oil from the dealer I work for. I've got more than I can burn.
Never had any injector or pump issues other than lift pumps. I love in a mostly warm climate, only freezes a few days of the year. Colder climates are gonna be hard on fuel parts with cold, thick oil trying to get pumped thru them.
You're gonna get mixed opinions, some have tried it and failed and given up. Some of is have been successful with it from day one and continue to make the process easier and quicker. Just search WMO, you'll find some success stories and those that call it the devils work even though they've never tried it.
All mine are first gen VE motors though. Haven't tried it in a p-pump yet although I have one waiting to go in a truck. Can't imagine much difference.
I'm even running WMO in my 92 fummins pushing close to 40 psi boost. These old mechanical cummins will run on almost anything as long as it's clean.
My system doesn't require settling or pouring from buckets and in summer time I'll run 100% WMO. Mixing diesel in the cold months is a must.
I don't have a set recipe, I just run what I've got on the tanks. Lately I've gotten a lot of diesel that wasn't quite good enough for a customers truck so it went in the tanks and really thinned out the oil, just in time for winter temps.
My system can go thru about 100 gallons an hour filtered. Sometimes if the tanks are low, which haven't been in along time, I'll filter from one to the other just for extra measure. Right now I have over 1000 gallons in storage. I'm a hoarder!!
I've got a 97 powerstroke I was thinking about mixing some in with the diesel to see how it does on it.
You've just got to try it, see what happens. Adjust your process if need be. Start off with small quantities. See how the truck reacts. It's gonna smoke so don't expect it not to. You're burning oil. Like I said, no problems here, and I'm saving lots of money.
 
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WMO for me includes engine oil, trans oil(ATF), diff lube, power steering fluid, a/c oil, diesel, gasoline, gear oils. Brake fluid doesn't work, I tried it.
I stay away from hydraulic oils cause they're mostly synthetic and tend to smoke a lot!!!
It'll still run but rough and lots of smoke. I tried it.
Again, it has to be clean!!!! Most important part of using WMO is get it clean!!!
Some people will argue to the death about the adverse affects of using ATF based on some studies, but they have never tried it for themselves. I have, it works, no problems.
Mechanics and truck drivers have been priming fuel filters with ATF for decades.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thank you for the reply man, and the info. ive been searching wmo stuff online and having no luck, just getting frustrated. i have a few simple questions nobody can seem to answer.

1. Ive heard you should never put gas in a diesel engine, but most of the people im reading about blend their WMO with RUG 15%. others use kero, some use d2, and some dont blend. i want to blend to make it easier to filter, but dont know what to use.
2. Im also reading that RUG will help to dewater the wmo. Can i mix RUG with my WMO or not. yes or no. i want an answer from someone with experience doing it, not someone whos just read about it and has an opinion.
thank you for any replies!
 

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Well I've never gone out and bought gas to mix with. The only time I've used has is when I got some from work, like when a customer put gas in a diesel truck and the system had to be drained and flushed. I'll mix that in. Aint gonna hurt nothing mixed with oil. I don't have a specific percentage I go by but my tanks are 500 gallons so even if I put 100 gallons of gas in it, which I never have that much, it won't hurt. If I do buy fuel to mix I'd prefer to buy diesel.
Let's think about that dewater idea. If you have water in ur oil, why??
Second, most gasoline has some ethanol fuel in it. From what I've read, ethanol fuel has alcohol in it. Alcohol absorbs moisture, so how is gas gonna help dewater oil??
If you have water in ur oil either don't use it or make sure you have very effective water seperators. That's why I use fuel filters and 2 water seperators. I'm using it as fuel so I use fuel filters.
I had a peterbilt in the shop today, it was running, didn't have any fuel system codes but had water in fuel codes. Primary was full of water, fuel in tank was very cloudy, had water in it. I didn't chance it, not gonna use it, that 40 gallons or so got thrown away. Not going in my tanks. If I get oil from a trans that had a lot of metal in it, I don't use it, throw it away.
If you're worried about water in your oil, don't use it. If I get an engine with water in the oil, I dont use it, not gonna chance it. I've got plenty of cleaner oil to pick from.
I like the idea that when I change my oil, that new oil is gonna be fuel for the truck one day. So, did I really pay for that oil if I drove that many more miles and didn't buy fuel??
I haven't done the math yet, but I think I'm Savin a lot.
My 08 should still look new in another 10 years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
so before you mix or filter your wmo, you let it sit and the crap at the bottom of the tank/barrel is water/sludge, correct? therefore most oil has a percentage of moisture in it, negligible or not? so dewatering should be practiced with every bit of oil before it goes into your truck. correct? i havent done it so i dont know, but thats my basic understanding.. and ive heard that the ethanol in todays RUG contains alchohol which can really mess up your engine. like i said this is all new to me and i want to be sure i have it all right in my head before i do this lol
 

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Actually, my tanks don't have any stand pipes, I pull right from the bottom. It does set for a while between use, but every bit of WMO goes thru the screens, filters and water seperators. I over filter it. That's why I don't have problems or worry about it. It's super clean when it gets to the truck. No water issues.
Like I said, you just got to build urself a system and try it. No amount of reading or opinions are gonna give you what practical experience will. Oil coming from an engine or trans shouldn't have any harmful amount of moisture in it. I think letting it sit around too long actually exposes it to condensation forming in the tanks. I keep extra filters on hand in the garage, when the flow from the hose slows down, I change some filters.
Check northern tools website for filter heads and filters. I got a bunch of filter heads with filters for $30-$40 each, get cheaper filter replacement filters at work.
Last time I changed filters out I put some high efficiency filters towards the end of the filter setup.
The whole point of doing WMO is to save money, but if it takes up too much of your time then the savings isn't worth it. It needs to be easy and simple or you'll get tired of working for it instead of enjoying the savings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
so you pull the entire contents of the recepticle the oil goes in first through filters and into the truck?
 

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Yup, oil mix sits in tanks, I use air pressure to push the WMO mix out the bottom bung instead of a pump that can go out or get clogged. Everything goes right to the filter assembly and into the truck.
If you wanna pm me ur cell number I can send u some pics.
 

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2012 3500 has 42K running on WMO, the initial attempt did teach me a lesson. Don't push it, meaning "clean, clean and clean" Hence I got a 55 gal an hour centrifuge and run it for 15 hours, at the end of the day the oil is orange again. Oh yeah the one key step is mixing the RUG, add the percentage (80/20) then mix it through the centrifuge for an hour. Get better result that way.
 

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2012 3500 has 42K running on WMO, the initial attempt did teach me a lesson. Don't push it, meaning "clean, clean and clean" Hence I got a 55 gal an hour centrifuge and run it for 15 hours, at the end of the day the oil is orange again. Oh yeah the one key step is mixing the RUG, add the percentage (80/20) then mix it through the centrifuge for an hour. Get better result that way.
It is good hearing from a 4th gen guy running WMO, just to put all those naysayers to rest. I keep hearing from so many people that WMO is death to a common rail, and yet here you are, with tens of thousands of miles on a 6.7 showing that it can be done! :thumbsup:
 

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2012 3500 has 42K running on WMO, the initial attempt did teach me a lesson. Don't push it, meaning "clean, clean and clean" Hence I got a 55 gal an hour centrifuge and run it for 15 hours, at the end of the day the oil is orange again. Oh yeah the one key step is mixing the RUG, add the percentage (80/20) then mix it through the centrifuge for an hour. Get better result that way.
When you say orange, it's still pretty black and not see thru right?
Also, what exactly is the main scare running wmo in a common rail? Mine seems to be doing great. Maybe from people to fuging the oil good???
 

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When you say orange, it's still pretty black and not see thru right?
Also, what exactly is the main scare running wmo in a common rail? Mine seems to be doing great. Maybe from people to fuging the oil good???
The color I am refering to is similar to the color you see when you pour new oil out of the gal container, I consider it clean because most of the oil I collect is from a schooll bus shop. They use 100% shell 15-40 oil on the busses. As I shared, cleaning and mixing are two steps you cannot take lightly to be successful with this process. Although I contribute some of my success to the HOD I have onboard, I was using the propane fogging system I develope. That was getting expensive and time consuming to run with. The HOD is inexpensive and promote better burn than the propane.

I am in the process activating the WI for the summer to finalize my test to have both HOD and WI active to promote even cleaner and complete burn. Recently I shared that the Turbo on my truck had a major failure with one of the fingers assisting with the varaible actuator, that was 38K miles. When I took it apart because everyone suggested to clean it because it could be all canbon up, to my surprise it was very clean and not as carbon up as everyone suspected.

How clean it was after runnin 38K on WMO, I contribute the cleaniless to the process of cleaning the WMO, HOD and the WI. I love it when D2 price jumps up (4.09) in my area knowing I pay that, in the end when I fill up the truck (needing 25 gal) I pay half that price if not less.
 
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