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2020 RAM 6.7L Limited 2500 - Black w/ Night package
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I know I'm gonna get shredded here by asking this since there are probably a ton of threads covering it, but I more than anything want to know if using a Non-OEM (MOPAR) fuel filters really matter? Are the "knock offs" sold on Amazon (Like iFJF) really sub-par? I am changing the oil at the same time, so I am trying to keep my costs down... With that should I just stick to T6 10w-30 as I am in California with non-sub 0 degree weather. Anyone used FleetSupreme by TRiAX? says its fully Synthetic API CK-4 Heavey duty Engine oil, but never heard of it. But, this is my first Diesel. I've always used Mobil 1 fully synthetic in my vehicles. My buddy uses Royal Purple but only thing I could find is CI-4 oil... Any help would be appreciated
 

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2014 Ram 2500 6.7 CTD SLT
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You can use any oil you like as long as it’s API CK-4 compliant. From all the horror stories I’ve read on here I wouldn’t use anything other then oem mopar or fleet guard for the fuel filters.
 

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If you're going to do the fluid changes on your own, which it sounds like, then you're already saving money. Buy fleetguard or mopar filters. I prefer Rotella T6.
 
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2022 Dodge 2500 CC Bighorn CTD
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Drum Wood Cup Road surface Drinkware
This is a photo of a China after market fuel filter, my self I sure as heck would not want that thing in my truck but you an use what ever you want: As for oil have run Rotella T6 5w40 in temps between 30 below zero to 105 above, its safe to use year round no matter where you live in the USA...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks everyone I went with OE fuel and Fleetguard oil filters. Still confused with the oil though. I live in California and am finding it hard to find 10w-30. Does running 5w-40 affect the milage? And what is the difference from T5 and T6 Rotella. Thx.
 

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Thanks everyone I went with OE fuel and Fleetguard oil filters. Still confused with the oil though. I live in California and am finding it hard to find 10w-30. Does running 5w-40 affect the milage? And what is the difference from T5 and T6 Rotella. Thx.
Rotella T5 is a synthetic blend, T 6 is full synthetic oil, I prefer full synthetic oil over a blended oil and have for the past 25 years, some people report a small increase going from dino to synthetic, but your right foot has the most control over your fuel mileage...
 

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Rotella T5 is a synthetic blend, T 6 is full synthetic oil, I prefer full synthetic oil over a blended oil and have for the past 25 years, some people report a small increase going from dino to synthetic, but your right foot has the most control over your fuel mileage...
And if using 5w40 it has to be full synthetic according to the manual
 

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On the Duramax forum I used to belong to the general consensus was that oil is oil up to a point. If you ran dino or some super-expensive top-notch bougie oil and tested them both for wear at 5K you'd probably not see much of a difference. However, if you ran it past 10K and sent a sample in for testing you'd see a difference in wear and service life. The synthetic is great for extended drain intervals but early on in the oil's life it won't make much of a difference performance-wise. If you ran a bypass filter system there were members running Amsoil upwards of 25K between oil changes.

I ran Mobil Delvac 1300 Dino 15W-40 in my Duramax all the way up to 180K when I sold it with zero issues. 10K OCIs with samples sent to Blackstone Labs.

Now as far as the CTD goes...I run the Valvoline Premium Blue 10W-30 and get it straight from Cummins just as @NIsaacs suggested. Best price I've found. Stocked up with oil and filters for my next 3 oil changes. Same with fuel filters from either Geno's or even Autozone had them in stock for a similar price. OEM and or Fleetguard. Not going to skimp on cheap fuel filters on my $80K truck.
 

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On the Duramax forum I used to belong to the general consensus was that oil is oil up to a point.
TLDR: My lifetime knowledge about motor oil in one easy to read effort-post.

I worked for STP in the late '80's and heard this straight from the engineer that did their vehicle testing at the time, with the disclaimer, "you didn't hear this from me." If I recall, they got a dozen identical Grand Ams and ran them on treadmills for 100k miles. They got scheduled oil/filter changes during the test, then got torn down at the end for measurements.

Long and short of it was, only minor variances in the additive packages across brands. The sole benefit of synthetics is heat tolerance. They'll run about 150º hotter before turning into sludge. Shutting down a hot turbo engine is where that really matters. Change it on time, keep it full, and don't run it hot and if turbocharged do a cooldown idle is the way.

A few years ago, I seen an article on the topic of diesel oils on Turbo Diesel Register (homepage, I did not search for the specific article). Within that was a chart where they got an analysis of all the leading brands. Rotella had the best, followed closely by Delvac, with Delo in third at a distance. I did not look much at the specialty brands, as my interest was with semi trucks and the big 3 brands are what is available most places. I see Valvoline mentioned, I don't remember where it placed. Experience with gas engines it's been a quality product. Just not usually offered in truck stops and big truck parts houses like the other 3. I would presume it's good as Rotella or Delvac, but nearly never see it where I shop.

In the KW I drove (C15 CAT) I did a 15k mile interval. Delo would noticeably begin breaking down after 10k. It was more watery on the dipstick and oil pressure would drop 10-15% by oil change time. Delvac and Rotella would not do that. They remained normal until drained at 15k.

My Ram pickup doesn't get the miles, so gets changed about every 12-18 months, so I just pay the toll for T-6 Rotella. If I was running hotshot and changing it every 4-6 weeks, I wouldn't worry at all over using T-4, provided I remained a stickler about a 3 minute idle cooldown before shutting the engine off. With T-6 that's not as important, but I still do it. The big price jump happens going from T-4 to T-5. Stepping up to T-6 is a much smaller increase. Not enough savings to justify not buying T-6 over T-5 IMO.

The irony is my new Macks have a 50k service interval, and any brand has held up like a champ. They have the MP-8HE which is basically a Volvo D-13 painted red. What Volvo/Mack done different to extend intervals is: EGR comes from after the DPF to keep soot out of the engine, and they have factory bypass filtration.
 

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. The big price jump happens going from T-4 to T-5. Stepping up to T-6 is a much smaller increase. Not enough savings to justify not buying T-6 over T-5 IMO.
Thats the beauty of the Valvoline Premium Blue 10/30 synthetic blend, it is $17.50 v/s the full synthetic 5/40 @ $30.
 

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I just changed my oil and used the Valvoline full synthetic 10W30. (10,670 miles, 95% highway). It would have been 1 year on the 10th. The oil filter is a premium Mobil-1. It was asking for the oil change and fuel filters as well. I ordered the Mopar filters from Geno's. I re-set for the oil change, but I could not find anything for the fuel life re-set. Any info out there? Thanks! JD
 

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I just changed my oil and used the Valvoline full synthetic 10W30. (10,670 miles, 95% highway). It would have been 1 year on the 10th. The oil filter is a premium Mobil-1. It was asking for the oil change and fuel filters as well. I ordered the Mopar filters from Geno's. I re-set for the oil change, but I could not find anything for the fuel life re-set. Any info out there? Thanks! JD
Its the same to reset the fuel filter just hold the right arrow on the fuel filter page to reset
 

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Its the same to reset the fuel filter just hold the right arrow on the fuel filter page to reset
Thanks! I will try that when I do the install. JD
 
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