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2007 Ram 2500 4x4
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

Here’s my favorite hitch what does everybody else like?
 

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2014 Ram 2500 6.7 CTD SLT
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I’ve been liking my B&W Tow and Stow. Only one I’ve got and needed so far.
 
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I’ve had the same couple hitches for years, I mostly use an old solid shank mount with a bolt on 2-5/16 pintle combo. No idea what brand it is, it’s been re painted more then once. I’ve been meaning to pickup a new mount so I don’t have to use that stupid reducer anymore.
 

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I’ve got an 8” drop weigh safe 180. I needed a 2.5 receiver in a hurry and it was the fastest thing I could get my hands on. The only issue I’ve had is the locking hitch pen doesn’t want to come unlocked after being on the truck a while. Tapping it with a hammer and some liquid wrench gets it working again.
 
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I’ve got an 8” drop weigh safe 180. I needed a 2.5 receiver in a hurry and it was the fastest thing I could get my hands on. The only issue I’ve had is the locking hitch pen doesn’t want to come unlocked after being on the truck a while. Tapping it with a hammer and some liquid wrench gets it working again.
The receiver is bolted to the truck. The hitch would be your weigh safe unit.

I like the weighsafe for the scale but the cost is nuts i was quoted 1000$ no thanks lol i am cheap at times
 

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2007 Ram 2500 4x4
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The only hitch i need good for 20k and never had a need for a WDH in decades of towing hundreds of trailers
Tire Automotive tire Automotive lighting Hood Motor vehicle

I like a regular hitch too especially short trips but out on long hauls the WDH feels better traveling on highways.
 

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2021 Ram 3500 DRW, HO, 3.73’s
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I’ve never had good luck with locking pins. I have yet to find a good one. I’ve been using a grade 8 bolt and nut, at least itll slow them down. Those locking pins all you need is a pipe to snap them.
Grade 8 with nyloc here also. Also use anti rattle clamp…would take someone awhile to remove and would have to have socket and wrenches. Piece of pipe will snap a locking pin in a heartbeat…I tried it myself.
 

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I can’t remember if I was going from the truck to the shop or vice versa but I had a locking pin fall apart in my hand - lock cylinder fell out. I don’t think it can fall out when locked but I’ll never use them again.
 

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Hensley Arrow for me. You won’t understand the difference until you use one.
 

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The only hitch i need good for 20k and never had a need for a WDH in decades of towing hundreds of trailers View attachment 975680
^What he said!
And while wdhs have their place in a couple scenarios, like truck payload/axle load not acceptable or an inherently poor towing trailer due to not enough tongue weight (need sway not weight dist) or too heavy of a tail for the dog (borderline overloaded on triailer weight or literally too big of a tail, IE weight at x distance behind the trailer axles), in most cases they are THE classi upsell to clueless RVers.
 
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Hensley Arrow for me. You won’t understand the difference until you use one.
As I understand, the main benefit of those hitches is they lighten your wallet sooo much that you gain a significant amount of useable payload back! Lol
 

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I’ve had the same couple hitches for years, I mostly use an old solid shank mount with a bolt on 2-5/16 pintle combo. No idea what brand it is, it’s been re painted more then once. I’ve been meaning to pickup a new mount so I don’t have to use that stupid reducer anymore.
Yeah, careful with the reducer thing. They are mostly good for wallering out the pin holes on the receiver and bending hitch pins.
 

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I’ve never had good luck with locking pins. I have yet to find a good one. I’ve been using a grade 8 bolt and nut, at least itll slow them down. Those locking pins all you need is a pipe to snap them.
Admittedly they require regular maintenance (lube) in the rust belt.
Everywhere else, they still need lubed once or twice a year.
But beats having your stinger stolen IMO. I’ve had the same couple locking hitch pins for 10-20 years. They work fine, unless you let the cylinder rust up or lose the key!
Where I work, everyone has a spud wrench so a double nut on a 5/8 bolt is not a deterrent. And I’ve tried snapping and hammering the locking heads off of a few locking hitch pins. It usually starts with that and ends with a grinder or blue wrench!
 

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Something else I found when I bought the first 2.5” stinger for our 4th gen a couple years ago…
The aluminum stingers are generally a shorter shank than steel ones.
Bought this nice Fastway? Al hitch. Rated more than I needed and a little cheaper than a B&W or other top line steel stingers. And shiny!
Well the ole toy hauler wouldn’t clear the taillights on the truck at close to a 90deg jackknife. 1 scratch and 1 new tail light later I had to buy a new stinger. The shank length is only about 1.5” longer but it now clears!

That and you can’t buy a “short” hitch extension for 2.5 and 3” receivers. I was pretty used to using those for light towing from our truck camper days and a 2” receiver. Not anymore!
(Yes I understand leverage and moment arms and their effects)
 
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