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Through the search function, I've been shown that failed clutch hydros are typically indicated by the clutch pedal basically having no resistance and dropping to the floor.

However, here's my situation and just I'm wondering if I also have failing hydros, in a different manner. Clutch pedal still has the same pedal pressure it's always had and no noticeable decrease in the amount of pedal travel. However, sometimes I will be "locked" out of gear until I "pump" the pedal a couple of times. This is especially apparent after it's sat greater than 6-8 hrs. and going into second gear. Additionally, the transmission in general does not seem to shift as smooth. A description would be that there's just enough pressure in the hydros to get to the next gear but not enough "pressure" to really allow the tranny to let me easily get into the next gear. Just don't have the money to go throwing parts at it.

Also, have a new clutch, pilot bearing, and release bearing as of early September 2010.
 
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Through the search function, I've been shown that failed clutch hydros are typically indicated by the clutch pedal basically having no resistance and dropping to the floor.

However, here's my situation and just I'm wondering if I also have failing hydros, in a different manner. Clutch pedal still has the same pedal pressure it's always had and no noticeable decrease in the amount of pedal travel. However, sometimes I will be "locked" out of gear until I "pump" the pedal a couple of times. This is especially apparent after it's sat greater than 6-8 hrs. and going into second gear. Additionally, the transmission in general does not seem to shift as smooth. A description would be that there's just enough pressure in the hydros to get to the next gear but not enough "pressure" to really allow the tranny to let me easily get into the next gear. Just don't have the money to go throwing parts at it.

Also, have a new clutch, pilot bearing, and release bearing as of early September 2010.
yep im having the same problem, no loss of hydro fluid or anything, and if i take off the reservoir cap and pump about 30x, it'll work flawlessly until it sits. i have yet to try moparman's method of bleeding because i think i have air trapped in the line
 

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both of you need the replacement hydraulics complete. No bleeding required. The master cylinder is internally bypassing. that why you can pump it up.
Yes you can get individual components from NAPA and others. However you have to take both off and fuss with for a while. Some can fix in 8 minutes flat. Most can't so don't even try. Just get the complete kit cause the other part will probablly go bad in 3 months.
 
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both of you need the replacement hydraulics complete. No bleeding required. The master cylinder is internally bypassing. that why you can pump it up.
Yes you can get individual components from NAPA and others. However you have to take both off and fuss with for a while. Some can fix in 8 minutes flat. Most can't so don't even try. Just get the complete kit cause the other part will probablly go bad in 3 months.
what does internally bypassing mean?:banghead:
 

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Losing pressure internally, leaking into itself. :thumbsup: Thats how mine failed.
alright thanks:thumbsup:, is it still worth trying the moparman method right quick before i buy the new one off dodge or would that just leave me with a truck with no hydraulics...
 

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What is the moparman method. PLEASE do not post the link to his site. I cannot open up anything from his website....NOTHING. Just describe it out to me. Mine is doing the same thing. Shifts fine going down the road and shift fine if you dont drive for more than an hour or so. After an hour if you stop and try to pull it in second, forget it. I think Im gonna go with the Valair setup. Not much more expensive than the parts store crap.
 

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I'm having the same problem with my truck. Ordering new hydraulics from Southbend or Valair next Monday when I get paid.

My problem started right after putting in a new upgraded clutch. I think the factory hydros just don't have enough pressure to fully disengage the clutch. I could be wrong on that though.
 

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I wouldnt buy a master cylinder lid from Southbend. I called them other day to talk about my clutch for my truck (3500 4x4 farm truck that pulls trailers, not a sled) and they basically told me that if I didnt up grade to the 13" stuff and use there bizillion dollar clutch that my truck would never move under its own power.....PISS OFF! Im sure that comment is gonna get the Southbend nut swingers all upset but I dont care. If you wanna buy my clutch for me then so be it. I called Heath at Valair and he was an awesome person to deal with. He told me right quick I didnt need all that crap (I called Valair first so dont assume they were putting down SB). He said his ceramic/kevlar for $650 would be ALL I would ever need and the organic 450 Hp clutch would do me fine ($350 bucks but he was out) and that was the only reason he told me about the other more expensive one. Valair will get my business when I go to get my stuff.
 

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What is the moparman method. PLEASE do not post the link to his site. I cannot open up anything from his website....NOTHING. Just describe it out to me. Mine is doing the same thing. Shifts fine going down the road and shift fine if you dont drive for more than an hour or so. After an hour if you stop and try to pull it in second, forget it. I think Im gonna go with the Valair setup. Not much more expensive than the parts store crap.
i never did this yet but in a nutshell its...remove from truck and drain all fluids from the assembly, then fill the slave back up and attach the lines, put the reservoir in a vice and hang it up higher than the slave and master then make sure the master is hung higher than the slave, then pour fluid in the reservoir and manually pump the SLAVE, then watch for bubbles to rise and add fluid as necessary. once bubbles finish, the top off fluid, put cap on reservoir and install back in truck making sure the reservoir is ALWAYS UPRIGHT during the whole installation.

im sure moparman will comment on this, and like i said i havent done this yet so in my opinion, i wouldnt do this until you read moparman's writeup or pm him
 

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My Valair hasnt worked right since I got it...It seems as if it is letting out in a different spot every time.
 

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sent you a pm valair...no answer for days
 
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