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If it was common place that differentials were grenading from such problems then I'd agree with you guys. But that is happening no more...

...most would have no idea what they'd be looking for when they're staring at the R&P.
Okay, none of mine grenaded. But they most likely would have had I not change fluid early, and pulled the cover.

For those that don't know what they're looking at...well, there's always the dealer, I suppose.
After all, a cracked ring gear tooth is somewhat similar to a cracked taillight lens, for example.

Besides, thanks to CF it would be easy enough to take a few photos and ask "Does this look normal to you guys?"
Worst case, there are entire books on the subject.
 

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Okay, none of mine grenaded. But they most likely would have had I not change fluid early, and pulled the cover.
Did you do anything about the discovered R&P issues, like park and fix it, or did you refill and hope for the best? And it would be interesting to know if these problems were found on factory installs or were they aftermarket, and...who did the job? I make it clear on threads about R&P swaps that I dont agree with differential gear/carrier work being a DIY job...

In regards to welding the cover on, the Ford 9 inch is an perfect example of a differential that doesnt have a removable cover. :thumbup:
 

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Did you do anything about the discovered R&P issues, like park and fix it, or did you refill and hope for the best? And it would be interesting to know if these problems were found on factory installs or were they aftermarket, and...who did the job? I make it clear on threads about R&P swaps that I dont agree with differential gear/carrier work being a DIY job...

In regards to welding the cover on, the Ford 9 inch is an perfect example of a differential that doesnt have a removable cover. :thumbup:
In one case I traded the pickup in on a new one (no parts were available), in another I changed to a MH cover and to 75W-140 and it seemed to have helped (originally the paint burnt off the cover, twice), and with the current 3500 I'm cautiously optimistic that my frequent cleanings of the magnet will keep it alive.

Those were/are AAM examples, all bone stock, but I have many more examples, mostly with Dana axles, that were modified axles.

Big difference between welding the drain plug shut and welding the cover to the housing, by the way.
 

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I'm not sure I'd trust any magnet in the diff housing unless it's epoxied in place, but I have a good Amazon sourced one towards the bottom of the cover, outside.

That's in addition to the factory level plug's magnet.
 

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I was thinking the same thing. Have seen a couple of photos installed inside bottom. I would worry about that.
 

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Realistically, a good modern magnet would most likely stay just fine inside the housing, on a flat surface, or on the inside of the cover.

One of these days I'll install my finned AAM cover, and then I'll have to look into a new spot for a magnet.
 

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I think the magnetic plug is enough. FWIW, if you get UOAs that show low wear metal but you have significant metal on the magnet... Believe the magnet, not the uoa! Craig
 

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In one case I traded the pickup in on a new one (no parts were available), in another I changed to a MH cover and to 75W-140 and it seemed to have helped (originally the paint burnt off the cover, twice), and with the current 3500 I'm cautiously optimistic that my frequent cleanings of the magnet will keep it alive.

Those were/are AAM examples, all bone stock, but I have many more examples, mostly with Dana axles, that were modified axles.

Big difference between welding the drain plug shut and welding the cover to the housing, by the way.
Interesting that adding a MH helped... What exactly did it help? Did it just lower temps or did it reduce fatigue on the parts you noticed were already showing signs of stress?

And magnets stuck to the inside of a metal cover are safe to run. I wouldnt place one on the inside of the housing though.
As you already know, the MH has a magnet on the drain plug and the fill dip stick is magnetized as well. That should be more than enough unless there's something wrong or the R&P was installed incorrectly.

And my bad... For whatever reason I thought you were saying the cover should be welded on. Didnt really know why either but...its clear we all have an opinion. :thumbup:
 

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Interesting that adding a MH helped... What exactly did it help? Did it just lower temps or did it reduce fatigue on the parts you noticed were already showing signs of stress?
Can't say that I know how, or even if, it helped.

On that one (a '10 2500) I foolishly didn't break it in correctly, and then outdid myself in stupidity and didn't change the fluid until after several thousand miles.

When it finally got on the lift, it wasn't a pretty sight. Almost all the paint had burnt off the cover and the "fluid" inside was black, and had lumps in it.

Can't recall what fluid went in, but the cover was cleaned and repainted. Only to find that after a 1,000-mile trip the paint was gone, again.
So it was in a bit of desperation that the MH cover went on, with Amsoil 75W-140, for the return trip.

Since powder coat holds up to heat better, I don't know how much cooler it ran, if at all.
What I do know is that the friend who bought that pickup still drives it, and has towed quite heavy with it, without any problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Installed the DOR spacers last night. Now it has plenty of room. Pretty sure it was fine before but I had ordered them so I installed them.
 
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