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· Registered
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Recently replaced the 91' Jeep Wrangler for a 2003 Dodge Cummins. I've been hiding in the shadows for a few months now reading up as much as possible on the forum and have to say thanks for everyone laying the tracks of how-to's.

This truck is being built on the most shoe-string of budget. I work for Forestry and have to disclose I don't get paid diddly. After all bills are covered I have enough for a 12-pack on occasion each month.

I sold the Jeep for $5500 and being without a vehicle for 5-weeks was brutal. Luckily a co-worker came in clutch so 3 of the 5 was paying for his gas exclusive. The rest was spent on Uber...

Anywho, with all rambling aside I have a short list of to-do's. I need a little guidance on what is the absolute best bang for my buck. I got the truck for nearly nothing and have about $1500-$2000 budget to spend on mods for absolute longevity sake. I am not really focused on power-adders or MPG gains, this is really only to keep this thing alive for as long as I can. I really dont have a lot of information as to what has been replaced on the truck with one exception (The computer was replaced 08/28/04). Other than that I have no clue, everything else could be factory.

The truck is a 2003 Dodge Cummins H.O. 2wd Automatic QCLB SWR with 237,000 Miles, I've owned it for a little less than a month and drove it back to Orlando, FL from Gulfport, MS. (500+ Miles) without any problems. This truck has ZERO Blow-by.

Upon putting the key in the ignition and doing a 1/4 turn I do have the check engine light appear. After starting the truck this disappears. I got the codes checked at AutoZone and one was battery disconnect and the other was something regarding lift pump voltage. I can verify code #'s shortly.

Other than that lets get to the important question - What do I need to do first?

I've been reading up about upgrading the lift pump and it being one of the most important items to do to improve longevity and reliability of the fuel system.

Honestly I did price out an AirDog II - 4G for $739.00, Fleece fuel filter block off for $79.00, and a Beans Sump pump for $134.00. This would cut hard into the budget but I feel like after reading thru about 50-60 threads this is a good start.

What is the next mod I should be focused on or the next few I should be looking into? Again this is strictly for longevity and reliability.

· Admin/Mod
10,703 Posts
Forget the fancy name Pumps. poor use of funds.
You either have the lp on the filter housing or in the tank, OEM is fine up to 500hp.
Mine is on the filter housing, replaced with a Napa lifetime part, with the lp psi gauge I know when the lp is getting weak and can get a free replacement, takes 1- 2 hours to change.
A Baldwin PF7977 filter in the housing and an add-on 3 mic filter setup just before the CP-3 is a great way to go. This is what I use >
Change all of the fluids then drive and enjoy.
The MIL always comes on at start or key-on.

Keep reading and learning.
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· Registered
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
TryNto, Thanks for the reply. I believe I also have a LP thats located on the back side of the filter housing. Is this one of those things that goes out without warning? I do have a code that was prompted recently about lift pump voltage. I'm not near the truck currently but I'll post what code it was.

So nothing other than using the stock parts and upgrading to a different paper filter?

I have a few bucks to spend so I'm taking its not as extreme as I was thinking. Guess I'm gonna be getting a 24 pack this month.

What is this plastic piece above the CP3? I've looked at a lot of forums with fuel related questions/answers but I dont see this on anyones truck in the pictures. Its the big rounded black plastic shroud with a cast piece of aluminum under it over the injector pump?
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