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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well My Number one gasket is blown.








Biggest Question is... is there a write up on this? :confused013: I searched for one and with the 96 hits I only got a few bits of info I needed. If not I'll try to write one up.

I plan on replacing all 6, but didn't know if it's easier to take off the turbo or not? I have a B&D Exhaust break behind the turbo too so don't know if that will be an issue. Then I'll check for cracks.

What are good gaskets I should get, O'Riely's http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...t_1361999_581&keyword=exhaust+manifold+gasket

or is there a top shelve brand I should go with that is worth the extra :$:?
 

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I buy only from cummins. I have a package sitting here: 3946275 part number

you can unbolt the turbo and loosen the clamp on the boot at the end of the intercooler pipe. swing the turbo up a bit and then use a 90 to take out all the manifold bolts. if your not screwing with a 3 piece manifold it should be less than a 2 hour job if you take your time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah I saw your 5 hr job back in 2010 or 2011... didn't sound fun... how are you liking your 3 piece?

are you saying just loosen the turbo bolts, and rotate it say 30* to the left (passenger side) as you take it completely off the manifold?
 

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back in 2010 or 2011?? I did it last night, I haven't slept yet... im going on 3 days straight working on the truck. doing head studs now.

I removed the turbo bolts and pulled it down, from there I was able to have enough room to just lift the manifold out. a bit of a pain lining it up again but not bad.

so far its working fine, temps seem to be a bit lower at idle (cant tell other than that) but I gained about 7psi of boost.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
:shock: 7 LBS of boost that is a lot

Ok think I got it... thanks

Sorry must of thought you where another guy... like I said I was looking through 96 threads.

Good luck with the head studs.
 

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He was replacing a cracked manifold that was leaking badly....
dont think a 3 piece is going to add 7psi all by itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What where the before and after boost numbers... ^^^^ good point... but if he was making 28 psi then and now making 35 ish psi, that is a lot. But if he was only making 20 psi before and now 27 psi that is good/normal and expected.
 

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before i pressure tested the system i was getting 18psi. after pressure testing and replacing all the gaskets/clamps from turbo to plenum cover I had 33psi and now im around 40-42psi
 

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its the turbo from a 95 12v. im still undecided if I go dual or replace with an s300
 

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before i pressure tested the system i was getting 18psi. after pressure testing and replacing all the gaskets/clamps from turbo to plenum cover I had 33psi and now im around 40-42psi
Then... BOOM NC74656's turbo explodes and he starts another thread :hehe:
 

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if you go back a bit you will see daja`vue:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
On my number one cylinder exhaust manifold, the two bolts were finger loose I thought I had blown a exhaust manifold gasket however after finding those two bolts loose I did a test. The test there's a very slight bubble coming from the side of number one gasket there is none from the number two gasket

Do you think it would be worth all the work to change the gaskets for that one little bubble
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Update

So, finally got the old gaskets off ... here is a pic of the old next to the new ones. The old ones have a little bevel bump the new ones don't have. The new are more paper like while the old are more of a tin metal type.


a closer look at the bevel bump around the exhaust ring.


I used PB Penetrating oil, left it over night. :thumbsup: definably they way to go. Found one I missed in the dark and I noticed!

Here is a pic of all the stuff in the way. You can see the heater core hard line that runs from the block just down by the oil filter, UNDER the manifold, but right in FRONT of the bottom bolts. Very problematic, and has to be removed.



And here you can see after I removed the oil return line from the turbo to the oil filter, and the heater core line, it was much more accessible. Now, I'm using a pry bar to use leverage to hold the manifold in place to thread bolts with new gaskets. With turbo still attached the whole thing is heavy and cumbersome.

It worked well...

NOTE:
I left a bolt half threaded in numbers 1 (bottom) and 6 (top) took all the others out. Once I got a fraction of an inch, I was able to move the manifold back enough to get the old gaskets out and slide the new ones in and half threaded them. I stated from cylinder numbs 2, 1, 3, 4, 5, 6. It worked well. kept me from holding the whole weight. Just an Idea.

I'm going to my buddies to get his torque wrench and will finish later today... however, Numbers 3,4, and possibly 6 (because of my exhaust break cylinder) I may have an issue getting a socket type wrench in there. I had to use a flat speed wrench to get those off because it may not fit. Am I going to have to guess-to-mate the torque? The rest I can get a torque wrench to get that 32# of torque.

Other things to note :S:

I hate mice


Keep your tools hand and in order, found my bull bar handy along with my bucket tool board.
 

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back in 2010 or 2011?? I did it last night, I haven't slept yet... im going on 3 days straight working on the truck. doing head studs now.
Dang man who's your crack dealer? :hehe: Impressive!
 

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Cummins should sell a lock tab that bridges the bolts so once tight a tab could be bent up.
I have seen many bolts gone , loose, missing at the rear for some reason.
 

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Did you pull the manifold and clean it off and check its surface for warping? How about cleaning the head off?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Did you pull the manifold and clean it off and check its surface for warping? How about cleaning the head off?
other than a visual... no. I did not. I looked it over well and brush wire cleaned the manifold, that was it.
 
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