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well, if you don't work that engine, getting it up to temperature and stay there for at least 1h to remove all the condensation from the block and tow or haul a load in a regular basis to keep that turbo happy, it might not last long, just like the batteries on a daily driver with low mileage.
 

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well, if you don't work that engine, getting it up to temperature and stay there for at least 1h to remove all the condensation from the block and tow or haul a load in a regular basis to keep that turbo happy, it might not last long, just like the batteries on a daily driver with low mileage.
sorry, but why exactly are you replacing the turbo?
 

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to replace just the turbo, about 4 to 6hr for casual person.

remove passenger tire, wheel liner, air box and battery to make it easier.

Drain coolant (or antifreeze depending where you are), turbo has coolant (antifreeze) lines.

Remove intake pipping and exhaust clamp.

Turbo has 2 coolant (antifreeze) lines, an Oil inlet hose, and an oil drain tube. It is held on with 4 bolts, the one rear near engine bolt will cause you to express some unique words.

The manual states to remove the fan shroud and fan. Remove or loosen motor mount. Then use engine hoist to lift engine. Just need to lift it a fraction of 1 inch, cause the engineers needed to add some difficultly to the removal of a turbo. It will ALMOST come out, without lifting engine. But, it is TOYING with you, it will not come out. tilt it, rotate it, flip and reverse it, it will always feel like "I almost got it..." some disassemble the turbo then pull it. Or remove the exhaust manifold, and pull the whole thing out. Some actually do what the manual says.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
to replace just the turbo, about 4 to 6hr for casual person.

remove passenger tire, wheel liner, air box and battery to make it easier.

Drain coolant (or antifreeze depending where you are), turbo has coolant (antifreeze) lines.

Remove intake pipping and exhaust clamp.

Turbo has 2 coolant (antifreeze) lines, an Oil inlet hose, and an oil drain tube. It is held on with 4 bolts, the one rear near engine bolt will cause you to express some unique words.

The manual states to remove the fan shroud and fan. Remove or loosen motor mount. Then use engine hoist to lift engine. Just need to lift it a fraction of 1 inch, cause the engineers needed to add some difficultly to the removal of a turbo. It will ALMOST come out, without lifting engine. But, it is TOYING with you, it will not come out. tilt it, rotate it, flip and reverse it, it will always feel like "I almost got it..." some disassemble the turbo then pull it. Or remove the exhaust manifold, and pull the whole thing out. Some actually do what the manual says.
By casual person do you mean a guy in his garage on a Saturday night or your everyday diesel mechanic?
 

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Oh, we talking about a "Shop"..

Shops tend to have bad time management, and job priority. The "Priority" depends on many factors. Example, Profit. If a job has a high return value, AND the shop needs cash, it will be quicker. If the job is something minimal financially, then it may get pushed back. Also, "squeaky wheel" will sometimes jump up in line, but they wore also the ones set back. (Squeaky Wheel = Customer calling and calling..) Work load can play into job completions too. Also, if they handle a large client with lots of trucks, they may push others back. Larger customers tend to be contract or pay whatever the bill is. Where a "walk-in" may hassle over every little line item on an invoice. If the job is a "favor" or "Buddy price", you can be sure it will be pushed back, as money making jobs will go first.

Even Dealer shops are bad. Ask them to replace a Turbo and it'll be 1 to 3 weeks. Or fix a headlight, 28 min job, 2 to 4 days in shop.

Or, maybe they are still trying to figure out how to lift the turbo out of the engine bay..? Let em know they need to lift the engine .001" and it'll clear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Oh, we talking about a "Shop"..

Shops tend to have bad time management, and job priority. The "Priority" depends on many factors. Example, Profit. If a job has a high return value, AND the shop needs cash, it will be quicker. If the job is something minimal financially, then it may get pushed back. Also, "squeaky wheel" will sometimes jump up in line, but they wore also the ones set back. (Squeaky Wheel = Customer calling and calling..) Work load can play into job completions too. Also, if they handle a large client with lots of trucks, they may push others back. Larger customers tend to be contract or pay whatever the bill is. Where a "walk-in" may hassle over every little line item on an invoice. If the job is a "favor" or "Buddy price", you can be sure it will be pushed back, as money making jobs will go first.

Even Dealer shops are bad. Ask them to replace a Turbo and it'll be 1 to 3 weeks. Or fix a headlight, 28 min job, 2 to 4 days in shop.

Or, maybe they are still trying to figure out how to lift the turbo out of the engine bay..? Let em know they need to lift the engine .001" and it'll clear.
Yes this seems to be the case here... A small local shop has had my truck for close to a month now to replace a failed turbo. Originally they claimed to be able to have it back to me in a week noore than 10 days. However they were having problems getting an OEM replacement. After waiting for 15 days their "perferred" distributor to restock the part which was on back order I insisted that they seek another source. Which led to another 7 days. Now they have supposedly had my truck in the rack for 3 days trying get this turbo out. I dropped by yesterday to find that they were working under the hood and miraculously had just managed to remove the unit from the engine compartment. When asked when to expect it to be finished he just kinda shrugged and said maybe before end of day. So I called back to check 3 hours later, and he said that there was still going to be a few hours of installment and that they wouldn't be done with it until tomorrow. Now I'm looking at trying to get my vehicle back in the morning maybe, then hooking up, facing a four hour drive, and then a lovely hire-in and a 12 hour shift starting at 6p.
 

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My mechanic did it in just under 4 hours. He charged me right at 400 bucks. Now he has a small shop and not much overhead. A bigger diesel shop here quoted me 600 for labor.
 

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well, if you don't work that engine, getting it up to temperature and stay there for at least 1h to remove all the condensation from the block and tow or haul a load in a regular basis to keep that turbo happy, it might not last long, just like the batteries on a daily driver with low mileage.

You are completely wrong. Did the dealer tell you that? I work the hell out of my truck and pull a trailer on the highway for 90% of its miles. Look at the fuel economy in my signature if you don't believe me. I run with the exhaust brake on all the time. I let my turbo cool before shutting off the truck. Mine failed at 86k. If you search through this forum you will see many just like me with a failed actuator. Not exactly uncommon.
 

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Took me a couple days over all to replace mine. The oil and coolant fitting on bottom side of the turbo sucked royally. I pulled my manifold and turbo out through the top. But put the turbo in through the wheel well
 

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well, if you don't work that engine, getting it up to temperature and stay there for at least 1h to remove all the condensation from the block and tow or haul a load in a regular basis to keep that turbo happy, it might not last long, just like the batteries on a daily driver with low mileage.
You must be responding to the wrong thread......
 

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My Gen 4 VgT turbo failed at 90k.... replaced with a single with no electronics on it, lost the exhaust brake which sucked but have had no issues in 40k miles. Took 3-4 hours to do the install including a new exhaust manifold and down pipe.
 
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