[diesel_tech]

my friend through a rod on his 04 cummins and he asked me to help him pull it and put a new one in ... its a 2wd 4 dr dually with a six speed manual . j have pulled several engines out of first and sefcond gens but never a comon rail and i am having the most grief ever getting this engine out ... we have spent dang near 10 hours and its still not out . i searched it on here and read about pullin the oil pan off or taking the head off and we did both with no luck ... it seems like the motor is caught on the tranny but i just dont see how it could be ... any pointers ??? my last effort is goin to be droppin the tranny

 

[Chris Mallett]

You must pull the trans, then tilt the engine forward. Or lift the cab a little, that is what I done.

 

[Chris Mallett]

The chrysler manuals state that on all trucks with the diesel or v10 engines the transmission must be removed before removal.

 

[BigTurboCumminsTruck]

If you torqued on it much at all without pulling the transmission you could've bent the input shaft. You better take a close look after you pull it out

 

[Chris Mallett]

If you torqued on it much at all without pulling the transmission you could've bent the input shaft. You better take a close look after you pull it out

Have you done this before? Makes no sense to me...:confused013:

 

[diesel_tech]

alright thanks guys !! i appreciate your input now i know for sure thats what i did wrong

 

[TXAustin]

I can tell you what we did when we had to pull mine out was lift the body up about 4-5in and that was how it came out. We didn't have to pull the tranny out first but I could see why you would have to do that. Check the input shaft!

 

[BigTurboCumminsTruck]

I've never done it, but I've seen input shafts damaged. When I say torqueing, I mean trying to lift the engine out, off the transmission without fully clearing the input shaft from the clutch assy. I don't know how else to explain it.

Have you done this before? Makes no sense to me...:confused013:

 

[steelhead01]

depends on what the engine was lifted with i would imagine

big electric lift chain block and hydraulic jack underneath, input shaft may look like a pretzel.

small manual chain block and stopped when the ceiling beam creaked and groaned, probably ok.
look over the input snoot closely also for cracks

 

[rpainter]

The chrysler manuals state that on all trucks with the diesel or v10 engines the transmission must be removed before removal.

I have pulled 3 cummins and never pulled the trans with the motor. It makes it a lot easier to unbolt the motor mounts from the block and remove them and then pull the block. That way the motor can come forward instead of having to come up and then out. Just pulled a 53 block yesterday doing it that way.Pulled the truck into the garage at 10 am and had the entire disassembled motor laying on the shop floor at 5:30 p.m trans still in truck.

 

[Jervis]

I pulled mine about a month ago took the head off in the truck to see the damage

then cut the inter cooler support out took off the motor mounts off and pulled the motor straight out

i dunno why anyone is lifting the body seems like useless work to me

 

[Chris Mallett]

I lifted the body because it would be easier than putting the engine back in and pulling trans off. Yeah extra work but seemed easier at the time.

 

[mdcody101]

there is a lift point at the front for the engine. You do not need to remove the head, oil pan or transmission. Hook to the loop on the passenger front of the engine and start to lift up once you clear the mounts you can slide it forward intill you can sit on top of the mounts the hook a chain to the rear of the head. Make sure you still have the engine leaning rearward when you lift it and you should be able to lift it right out and over the cross member. I can have one out in about 5 hours. The tough part is getting the trans lined up when reinstalling.

 

[jamie640]

I have pulled a few 03-07.5 5.9 cummins diesel engines out. Its not a bad Job about 8 - 10hrs to remove.
Best way I have always used is , removing #5 and#6 injectors and #4, #5, and #6 rocker arms, this way you get clearance to lift the engine up and out.

I made a special bracket that bolts on with 2 cylinder head bolts on the LH side of the engine, with also using the Front factory engine bracket.

For the trandmission, on the trans crossmember the holes are slotted so you can unbolt the transmission and slide it back about an inch or two away from the engine with a trans jack in support of it.

Straight forward from there except for the radiator/intercooler support crossmember. I just cut it out in the centre and removed it and then made reinforcment brackets on it to re-install. There is a proper way to remove it by flexing the quarter panel frame out of the way but just not worth the work involved lol.

Hope this helps.