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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Seem right around 20% throttle cruising on highway I notice this the most. The engine will shutter, like if you were to quickly press and release the peddle fast and make the truck jerk. After some reading I was thinking this may be my peddle having a bad spot (being electronic) put a new one on tonight but have the same problem. This issue started after I put in new injectors (BBI 1.5). I had some FRP issue's after the upgrade and went with the Fleece 10mm pump and PPEI tunning. Tonight I noticed that while using cruise control it is worse. Holding speed at 70 MPH or right around 2100-2300 RPM's it will get bad. If I press the pedal it will clear up and come back after a bit more cruising. Also, if I come off the highway after some heavy pedal and come to an idle the truck will start beeping (10 times) and turn on the dash grid heater light, and it kills power to below a stock tune. This code is P1222, I can clear this using the edge but will come back over time. I pulled the valve cover and was going to start pulling everything off and check for any problems tonight but figured I would ask here. Any clue what could be causing this?

*I should add, idle, running through the gears it runs fine. It's just around the 2100-2300 RMP's. When cruise control is used the Edge will show 0% APP, should of caught this prior to purchasing a new pedal.
 

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The P1222 is the leak detection DTC's setting and derating the engine. Why it is setting is a good question. Probably going to have log the problem and send it back to the tuner, if that is the only place there is an issue it is likely tuning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It will still shutter on stock tune, even unplugged my Edge monitor. The new EFI live tunes didn’t help or worsen the issue. My plan is to start at cyl 1 and work my way back. I haven’t noticed any fuel leaks, if I do have one at the tube my guess is I would have some fuel in my oil, I may drain it first just to verify.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What about the rear end sensor, would this cause issues on a manual transmission?
 

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connector tube cone end to injector compression seal leaks will flow into head fuel return gallery back to tank along with injector internal return valve fuel.
Can NOT leak into crankcase.
But can set off the P1222 leak detection algorithm code.
Code algorithm detects any unaccounted for fuel return.

Fuel system mods, injector wear and rust, in these 5.9 HPCR easily trigger the unexplained aka leak detection fuel usage code. Even injectors with higher flow rate than stock can trigger the code.
Your programmer, if he knows what he's doing, can make the algorithm coding less sensitive. I won't discuss the other option.

Also can be injector return valve leaking due to rust particle/dirt/hair ball holding return valve open partially, returning unexplained unaccounted for fuel to tank.
Run a double triple shock dose of injector cleaner in the tank.


It will still shutter on stock tune, even unplugged my Edge monitor. The new EFI live tunes didn’t help or worsen the issue. My plan is to start at cyl 1 and work my way back. I haven’t noticed any fuel leaks, if I do have one at the tube my guess is I would have some fuel in my oil, I may drain it first just to verify.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Okay, I went back through each injector and tube I remember cyl 1 tube not clicking when I first installed the tubes. I still couldn’t get it to snap in so I tried a different tube and got it to “snap in” along with the rest of them. I also replaced the banjo bolt injector return valve on the back of the head. I no longer have a long crank time to start, it’s now instant. Also my EGT’s dropped significantly. I haven’t thrown a code for the P1222 yet, need to drive it a bit more but I think it’s good.

Still have the shuttering, pretty consistent at 2k rpm’s while in cruise control. Any other known sensors that may be causing this?
 

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Okay, I went back through each injector and tube I remember cyl 1 tube not clicking when I first installed the tubes. I still couldn’t get it to snap in so I tried a different tube and got it to “snap in” along with the rest of them. I also replaced the banjo bolt injector return valve on the back of the head. I no longer have a long crank time to start, it’s now instant. Also my EGT’s dropped significantly. I haven’t thrown a code for the P1222 yet, need to drive it a bit more but I think it’s good.

Still have the shuttering, pretty consistent at 2k rpm’s while in cruise control. Any other known sensors that may be causing this?
my truck in sig was doing the shuddering on a trip to north Carolina this past weekend and I was using smarty tuning for the trip. I ended up going with stock injection timing and it cured my shudder. I have almost the same feeling setup as you.
 

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Okay, I went back through each injector and tube I remember cyl 1 tube not clicking when I first installed the tubes. I still couldn’t get it to snap in so I tried a different tube and got it to “snap in” along with the rest of them. I also replaced the banjo bolt injector return valve on the back of the head. I no longer have a long crank time to start, it’s now instant. Also my EGT’s dropped significantly. I haven’t thrown a code for the P1222 yet, need to drive it a bit more but I think it’s good.

Still have the shuttering, pretty consistent at 2k rpm’s while in cruise control. Any other known sensors that may be causing this?
the truck in my sig is setup similar to yours and I had the shudder on a trip to north Carolina this past weekend but I was using smarty tuning as I thought it would get me better mpg than my race tune. anyways I ended up having to go with stock timing to get rid of the shudder.
 

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what rghavana said plus change the FCA. Worn dirty corroded FCA will be sticky not smooth operating. They generally act up at the rpm range where they run the most at, either idle or cruise rpms. FCA ECU system operates in a continually changing hysteresis mode driven by a digital PWM ECU signal. Like a dog chasing its tail, always close but never perfect.
FCA has to be perfect in its free movement and valving or get shutter. May not show on RP, too fast for sensor and/or gauge.

What is lift pump supply psi and rail pressures commanded vs actual, when issue happens ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
what rghavana said plus change the FCA. Worn dirty corroded FCA will be sticky not smooth operating. They generally act up at the rpm range where they run the most at, either idle or cruise rpms. FCA ECU system operates in a continually changing hysteresis mode driven by a digital PWM ECU signal. Like a dog chasing its tail, always close but never perfect.
FCA has to be perfect in its free movement and valving or get shutter. May not show on RP, too fast for sensor and/or gauge.
The injectors and cp3 pump have around 500 miles if that. I wouldn’t think the FCA would be the issue? The last drive I did my rail pressure would idle at 7-9, cruising at 70mph FRP at 18.5, and would hit around 24 when in it. My lift pump at idle is roughly 18 and lowest I have seen is 12.

I’ll monitor it all while it does it in the next days. When using cc it will get so choppy the truck de-fuels for a couple seconds then slowly gives it more fuel again. Almost like it senses me riding the truck like a bull :woohoo:
 
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