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Discussion Starter #1
So I had a little too much fun at the dirt drags last weekend and popped the freeze plug at the back of the head.. I guess my diy coolant by-pass didn't work or maybe the fact that i spun 5000 rpms did the trick..

Anyway motors coming out for the first time at 276K and I want to upgrade.. My compounds are going back which used to push 60 psi easy. End goal would be 750 Hp, but i have some questions on my parts list. Ill list below:

Head/valve train

Hamilton 103 #springs. Or Smeading diesel springs. I guess hamilton is the way to go any other options out there?
Should I tap and plug the freeze plugs for my power level?
Obviously we will go over the head completely. Trucks a 03 so i don't think i have those pressed in valve seats.
Manton push rods
Stock cam and lifters if all is good.
Fleece coolant bypass? Is it worth it? And how would i ever get to the thermostat if i need to change it?
Arp 425 studs

Engine
Reuse pistons if they are all good and if i don't need to bore. If i need to replace ill get the marine pistons.
Cummins rebuild kit/seals.
New oil pump
New oil cooler
Is there any upgrade to the piston cooling jets?
Would a fluidamper or ati damper really be worth it?

Fuel:

Thinking of BMS 100 hp or 125's from DAP
Dual cp3's can i use the fleece spliter cable on my 03?

Do you think i can run those injectors on a single pump and upgrade to duals later down the road? Would those injectors be hazing or to smokey? Truck is going to be a daily as well so i need to keep it reliable as it used to be so im on the fence with duals because of the controller and belt issues i hear about..

Let em know if what you guys think or if i missed anything out.
 

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IAFF Local 11
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I have BMS 50% or "100HP" from dap and a completely stock fuel system, it will do fine for daily. Your right foot creates smoke. ARP 425's are a waste. Look into ontork head studs. The rest I'll leave to the pros.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have BMS 50% or "100HP" from dap and a completely stock fuel system, it will do fine for daily. Your right foot creates smoke. ARP 425's are a waste. Look into ontork head studs. The rest I'll leave to the pros.
Thanks for the info on the studs, will look into them.. what turbo do you have? Are the 100's clean at idle?
 

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Thanks for the info on the studs, will look into them.. what turbo do you have? Are the 100's clean at idle?
I have the stock HE351 for a tudro.... lol. The 100's are "clean" on idle, but will haze dependent on temp. I know in the morning I will most definitely see a haze while accelerating on to the hwy in the headlights behind me. IMO bigger injectors, without proper tuning will always haze, especially when cold. I'm sure the big tuner sponsors on here can give more adequate response on haze and how to program it out. Programing is your friend, I am a novice with my archaic smarty.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Not sure if they do proper balancing here but will definitely do that if possible. Any info on the fleece bypass? Have i missed anything?
 

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3 footin' through life
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Added my thoughts below. Balancing should be easy at any decent machine shop. However, many places will want to take weight out of the piston above the wrist pin. Its better to take it out of the corresponding wrist pin instead because it weakens the piston to take meat out of it. Balancing the crank should be very easy down there. straight 6's do not require bob weights to balance. They probably know this because I'm guessing straight 6's are more common than in US V8 happy land. Balancing the rods might be trickier but you could buy your own rig to do it if nobody does.

Also suggest tap the oil trains to 3/4" npt. Then you can use a 3/4 npt to -10 fitting instead of the push in oring style.

Head/valve train

Hamilton 103 #springs. Or Smeading diesel springs. I guess hamilton is the way to go any other options out there? Seems there are many options now but I have used 103's with good success.
Should I tap and plug the freeze plugs for my power level? I consider this mandatory. Cheap and you can do it yourself easily.
Obviously we will go over the head completely. Trucks a 03 so i don't think i have those pressed in valve seats. I thought 03-04's were the bad ones for dropping seats. Thought you've been lucky so far so maybe they are good. That said, if you are gonna do a valve job I would do new seats and pin them in. All valve seats are press in BTW. Its just if you pin them or not. That said, I'd be surprised if the head has no cracks in it.
Manton push rods Sound good
Stock cam and lifters if all is good. Mark the tappets coming out. I bet you will see enough wear to make you think of replacing.
Fleece coolant bypass? Is it worth it? And how would i ever get to the thermostat if i need to change it? I have the fleece and have had good success.
Arp 425 studs Absolutely not

Engine
Reuse pistons if they are all good and if i don't need to bore. If i need to replace ill get the marine pistons. You will want to replace them based on skirt wear
Cummins rebuild kit/seals. Yes
New oil pump There is a spec for checking it but you may need one
New oil cooler You can test yourself with a fitting and check for leaks.
Is there any upgrade to the piston cooling jets? Don't think so
Would a fluidamper or ati damper really be worth it? Yes. I like ATI or stock 6.7 over fluidamper because you can't fit the belt between fluidamper OD and fan pulley without uninstalling one of them

Fuel:

Thinking of BMS 100 hp or 125's from DAP
Dual cp3's can i use the fleece spliter cable on my 03? Possibly with UDC. I've considered this route but already have controller so haven't messed with it.

Do you think i can run those injectors on a single pump and upgrade to duals later down the road? AbsolutelyWould those injectors be hazing or to smokey? NoTruck is going to be a daily as well so i need to keep it reliable as it used to be so im on the fence with duals because of the controller and belt issues i hear about..

Let em know if what you guys think or if i missed anything out.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the info! Checked around and nobody still does balancing here. Got one more place to go and see if they can do it. Definitely want to tap for the oil fitting if the hose will reach, surprisingly the push in ones that I have are dry no leaks at all..

Any ideas on the thermostat on the fleece bypass? Would hate to change it with the engine on the truck. Hopefully I'll pull the engine out by the weekend and have it opened up. Oh and what's with all the hate for the arp's? Thought the were pretty good..
 

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3 footin' through life
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I just am not a fan of 425's. Just had a local friend blow them on a 475 the first time he laid into it after a new build. So just to see before he pulled the head he retorqued a few and got like 1/2 a turn before they were at torque again. Yeah you could argue heat cycling etc... but that is a ton of movement. To me they really are no better than the stock bolt torqued to 130.
 
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3 footin' through life
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Thinking about it more, change your oil pump. Thats a lot of miles for that critical part thats a PITA to replace later. Only reason I reused the pump in my 6.7 was because it looked like the whole motor had like 40k on it or even lower. NEVER seen diesel oil as clean as that so I said F it and reused it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well, got the engine out.. never using a cherry picker on a cummins, just way too heavy. Gonna fab up some way to put it back with my fork lift. And I have a damn overhead crane at my factory but just don't have the space to work over there..

Bad news, piston skirts are messed up, cylinders aren't scored deep but there are some marks in there, hopefully they can be honed, but if I gotta bore it's all good. This engine will get a well deserved rebuild. Seems like the crank has some rust going on?? Anyone seen that? Oh, and I don't have the cracked cap rods, I have the ones that are machined, those are the better ones right?



 

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3 footin' through life
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So, why you got 12v rods in there already? Somebodies been in there.

The rust must be from your humidity down there?

And add oil pump to the list. I'm having oil pressure troubles and I reused the 6.7 pump. I'm gonna throw a new one in tomorrow and hope that solves it.
 
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I have about 15k mi with build in signature for the most part on ARP 425's. I'm also still on my original head gasket. I followed Gdp's instructions of one at a time and their torque cycles and their higher torque spec of 145 or 150ftlbs. Somewhere around there. I also losened and torqued them for 4 or 5 cycles before running. Ran a couple hundred miles and retorqued warm, then after about 12k mi checked the torque cold and none of them moved. This is just my personal experience. I would probably go to 625's if I were to do a rebuild. Then again I'd probably go to a 6.7 anyway.
 
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Discussion Starter #14
So, why you got 12v rods in there already? Somebodies been in there.

The rust must be from your humidity down there?

And add oil pump to the list. I'm having oil pressure troubles and I reused the 6.7 pump. I'm gonna throw a new one in tomorrow and hope that solves it.
I'm pretty sure the engine has never been opened before. I was reading up that some of the early engines had these rods from the factory then later on they went with the cracked cap rods.. The date on the pistons says they are 2002.. My truck was built in 2002 as well.

For the price of the oil pump I'm surely replacing and also the cooler. Since the pistons were all messed up ive been recommend to go to the 04.5 and up pistons. So im doing a full rebuild now..
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So to update, block will be bored 20 over, crank just needs a polish so all standard there and I'm gonna need all valve seats replaced. Head and deck will get machined to make sure it's all flat. That's pretty much all that can be done here.

Anyone know where's the best place to get the oversized seats? Planning on buying all parts this week so I can get them coming my way.. already miss driving my truck..
 

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I feel ya missing your truck try being without your pickup for over 2 years
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So, while I wait on parts and the machine shop. I was thinking on redoing my trans lines since they were leaking.. Since the outlet from the trans is 1/4 npt would -6 braided line be sufficient? I've seen others do -8 and even -10 but I think it might be overkill..

Also for my fuel line I think I'm running a 3/8 hose from my fass platinum. Might be getting a stroker pump so would -6 be sufficient as well?
 

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-6 is 3/8 so thats a wash. I've got 1/2" going to my duals but I think you'd be fine with 3/8

Crazy that early common rails came with those rods. Lucky guys!
 
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