Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum banner

1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
2004.5 Ram 2500 LWB CC 5.9l HO 325 hp. NV5600. Edge tuner with Attitude monitor.
Hi folks. I've got an emergency here. Heading to work this morning when suddenly got a major drop in power. MIL lit up on the dash and since it was not well, I pull her over into a lot, pulled out the code reader, and got the following info - P2146 Fuel injector group 1 supply voltage circuit. I pulled out a flashlight and looked in the fuse box, hoping for a simple blown fuse but saw nothing labeled as being for the fuel injection system.
Have any of you folks ever dealt with this same issue? Is there some electronic module somewhere that's gone bad?
Any help you can send me is much appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
847 Posts
more than likely the physical harness to the injectors is bad, the wiring in the rocker box is bad or an injector solenoid is bad.

This is assuming your batteries are fine, bad batteries can cause all kinds of wacky things.

Can always unhook the batteries for a few minutes and reconnect and see if it still exists. Incase it was a false positive code.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. Yep. Kinda been leaning in those directions. Since I posted I've been looking at other info as well. It's all pointing in that "troubleshoot the wiring circuit" direction. New injectors right before I bought it about 13000 miles ago. Might still check the solenoids, though. I'm guessing those injectors come apart after you pull em? Or can you check the solenoid without pulling the injector?
I'm heading out to the carport to start opening it all up right now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
My truck threw this code once. Went into limp mode by shutting down bank 1 injectors.
Went through the whole process of checking the ohm's on the injector harness/valve cover gasket
and injector solenoids. All were within spec. What I did find though was that 1 wire in the harness the
connects to the valve cover gasket harness had been rubbing on metal and had worn through creating a
ground. Repaired taped up that worn spot and secured all harness wires really good as to not touch metal.
I have not experienced that problem since. So, with that said I would also suggest thoroughly checking the
injector harness for such wear as mentioned above. Maybe be as simple as that but worth the trouble!
Use a very bright flashlight, really does help. good luck with your issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks, carps.
Yeah, I was kinda looking for something like that as I pulled it open.
This is what I have.
The grey connector goes thru the head below the line of cover gasket contact. I'm guessing that maybe an earlier variation of this pass thru went thru the gasket plane and was part of a molded gasket?
That would mean that maybe mine isn't a wire grounding issue but an injector issue?
Or, could the wire grounding issue be there anyway, just up under all the metal in the little wire harness tunnel?


Also, do the two color code combos on the injectors represent bank 1 vs bank 2 ?
 

Attachments

·
Trying to learn
Joined
·
5,460 Posts
Difference between 2004.5 and 2006 trucks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
So, on the 06 they passed the wiring thru the gasket plane?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Ok, I disconnected wires on each injector and checked with ohmmeter. Number two has a little resistance and all the others read zero.
I'm guessing number two has a bad solenoid.
It looks like the solenoid unscrews off the top of the injector with a deep socket a little bigger than an inch.
And I could probably do it without removing the entire injector.
Is that correct?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Yep, there is a difference between the years. Mainly trying to convey the possibility of wire insulation rubbing and wearing & grounding when all else seems to check out good. I should have been more clear.
Good luck, keep us posted on what you find
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
542 Posts
On my 03 I had picked up an Edge Juice with attitude and after making all the connections I started it up and got the same code and was running real rough. I shut it down and rechecked all connections and at startup same thing happened. Long story short I pulled the tuner off and haven’t had a problem since and that was about 5 years ago. I have read here of the same situation with others. I would suggest trying without the attitude connected.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
847 Posts
I bet it has something to do with whatever is spliced into that injector wiring.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
957 Posts
From the experience learned from this forum, just buy a new injector if the solenoid is bad. The story has never ended well when you start trying to repair the injector, but you might be the first! Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,329 Posts
Thanks. Yep. Kinda been leaning in those directions. Since I posted I've been looking at other info as well. It's all pointing in that "troubleshoot the wiring circuit" direction. New injectors right before I bought it about 13000 miles ago. Might still check the solenoids, though. I'm guessing those injectors come apart after you pull em? Or can you check the solenoid without pulling the injector?
I'm heading out to the carport to start opening it all up right now.
Define "new" alot issues with reman injectors, trying to change solenoid is usually not a good idea as there are clearances that need to be met.:wink2:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Thanks folks !
Yep, that's the direction I'm heading next. I really like the attitude monitor, though. I'm wondering if there's a way I can keep the monitor hooked up and reading data, while disconnecting the injector splicing, so it reads, but can't do anything. I'm gonna try it and see if it works.
The resistance, 1.4 on the 2k scale, at number 2 injector concerns me, though.
So I read up on how to change out the solenoid on the injector assembly, did some reading on the parts themselves, discovered the same solenoid is used on the duramax injectors and all the ones I found online throughout the price range were of the same brand - Aisin. That made sense to me since the duramax is of Japanese design.
So I ordered 6 of the ones in the middle of the price range ($30.00) from a supplier in the US on amazon. They'll be in anywhere from this Thursday to next Monday. Sooner the better.
New injectors were only available locally thru a dealer for $875.00 each without the tube. Still would've had to order and wait til middle of next week. I could've gotten rebuilts for $250.00 and up or new bosch thru the aftermarket and probably paid extra to get em here quick, but I figured I'd try this first. Others have reported good results. I think the trick might be to get the proper o ring fitment.
If not for the supposed new factory stock injectors about 13000 miles or so ago and the fact that I'm going to be doing a complete rebuild including injection system in 2 years or less, I'd probably suck up the cost of new injectors as a set. Might even go with some kind of upgraded injection tube with better spray pattern, etc. but, that'll happen when I do the rebuild. (Excessive blow by probably from number 6).
I figure I'll replace the solenoid in number 2 and if it works, great, and I've got a few extra in case it happens again.
If not, maybe I'll send the other 5 back, get a refund and suck up the cost of at least 1 new injector.
Before I opened up the valve cover I did I quick tug and push test on all the wiring in the various parts of the injector harness while the motor was running. No change from lawn mower mode.
Under the valve cover I looked and pulled and pushed on the wires looking for cracked or worn insulation and found none. All the wire insulation seemed in good shape and flexible. That's why I'm going forward with injector issues.

Actually, I'd been wondering if I'd get better service and performance by removing the edge. I'd been thinking I'd take it out since I bought the truck a year and a half ago. All I'd ever used it set at was 0-stock and 1-fuel efficiency. It was set at 3-performance driving when I bought it and didn't get the settings figured out til I got it home and could get online and research it. I've always had mixed feelings about it and would probably like to have something to adjust performance levels from everyday driving thru towing, but from what I've been told, the edge is not the right choice. Still like the attitude monitor, though.
I'll be disconnecting it all tomorrow morning after reading up on it tonight.

On an afterthought : this morning when it all happened and I was limping my way back home, I changed the settings on the edge from 1 to 2. Then to 3, trying to see if it cleared anything up. I could sense a change in the motor, probably from the edge throwing more fuel at it or something, but the problem - no fuel for 1 or more cylinders - stayed. So, more reason to suspect the bad injector solenoid ?

Stay tuned for the latest updates, folks !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
So, I got the parts in and changed out the solenoid in #2 and disconnected the edge wiring harness except for the egt sensor and the map sensor and data link.
Started it up and it ran fine except for small leak around the solenoid nut. (O rings I figured)
So I found the proper size o rings and reassembled the solenoid. No start.
While it was running, it threw a cam position sensor code. I figured it was from the data link. So, I disconnected the data link from the edge/attitude. I also looked and scratched for anything that I might've overlooked and reassembled all over again. Still no start.

And boy, have I learned a lot about diesel injectors lately. Mostly that I don't have the technology at my disposal to repair them properly.

At this point, all I want to do is get it running again so I can move it out of the carport and around the property. Then I can look at getting the rebuild done more soon than than later.
I'm tired of farting around with a truck I don't want to trust, so I'm interviewing shops.
To do the injectors right with the upgraded filter system would cost a little under 5 grand at a decent shop. Might as well do the whole rebuild so I can have a good beginning baseline for a good truck I can trust. It's only money, right.....

But in the meantime, any body got any suggestions on what to check next? I've learned about a fuel injector bypass test. To test if too much bypass is happening and not allowing enough pressure to build.
Might be since I messed with #2.
Is it a mistake to just replace #2 and see if that gets me running again? Knowing, of course, that it's not a real fix, just a patch to keep me running till I can get a rebuild done ?
Any of your thoughts are appreciated.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,180 Posts
$5k to do injectors and upgraded fuel system? Holy bend over batman!!!!

A NEW set of performance injectors and upgraded filtration is around $2500, if you are even remotely mechanical it is all bolt on stuff. Your choice but that is a lot to give a shop unless you are a complete invalid.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
847 Posts
cam sensor and crank sensor are the same kind of sensor and think that code can end up for either, Should check them both. If one completely fails or gets unplugged the truck will not run.

Crank is easy to find, the cam sensor is directly below the CP3.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
957 Posts
You take a chance at rebuilding a very precise part and fail, but installing injectors, which has a thousand how to threads and videos, you won't? I give up.
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top