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Discussion Starter #1
Electrical Problem - truck won't start *FIXED, UPDATED, FUSIBLE LINK*

FIXED!
Of course it was the stupid fusible link. Think I have a nice solution. See post 16

https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/89-93-powertrain/2521415-electrical-problem-truck-wont-start-2.html#post29271151


Hey guys, so my truck slowly stopped working.

I noticed a few weeks ago that when input my key in the ignition and turned it to "on" there was a slight delay in the gauges lighting up, relays clicking and the "wait to start" light coming on. The delay slowly got worse but once things came to life I could turn it off and then back on with no delay. This made me think there was a problem with one of the relays.

So the other day I went to start the truck and nothing came on. No life.

The battery is fine. Today I checked all the fuses under the ignition Colum and they are fine. I checked the 3 relays along the fender under the hood and they are fine.

A previous owner used the black plug under the hood mechanism on the left side to feed ignition power to a relay. I noticed by accident years ago that I could back-feed power into the ignition from here to start the truck. I tried this today and the truck fires right up but dies as soon as I remove power from there.

I have had problems with the fuseable link in the past because the idiot PO tried to run fog lights directly off the ignition without a relay so I fixed the one strand and haven't had any problems since and it looks fine now.

So I'm wondering if maybe my ignition switch has gone bad?

Do you guys know of anything else I should try or check before pulling the ignition apart?

Thanks!
 

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One day I went out to fire up my truck, turn the key to on, no idiot lights, no wait to start etc. It ended up being a fuesable link.
I ended up replacing all the fuseable links with a marine grade fuse panel.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the suggestion. I checked the ignition switch and it's fine. I cut the fuseable link wire that I thought could be the problem and it's fine (I spliced in a piece of wire). I guess I shouldn't have done that because now I definitely need to replace it with a fuse box. That said, I was planning to replace it anyway so I just made more work for myself.

Ok, anyway, now I know the problem is downstream from the fuseable link.

I really hope this isn't an ECU problem....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
In retrospect I shouldn't have screwed with that fuseable link because I bet it's upstream of the bloody ignition. Ugh. 🤦
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Has no one else had this problem? I'm having a hard time figuring out where the start/run wire goes from the ignition (dark blue wire)... The schematics don't show it as going anywhere obviously useful.
 

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There are two fuse links that feed the ignition switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ya, I finally found all of the fuseable links on schematic AD-6. 3x 20ga Orange, 1x 18ga Green/Yellow, 1x 22ga White & 1x 10ga Dark Green.

Sounds right to me.... But I still have absolutely no idea what's going on. I guess replacing all of those fuseable links is as good a place to start as any... 🤷‍♂️🤦‍♂️

Can we find the genius who designed this system? I think he's earned a kick in the nuts.
 

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Have you removed and cleaned all your grounds really well? Did you remove your battery posts and clean and reinstall?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Have you removed and cleaned all your grounds really well? Did you remove your battery posts and clean and reinstall?
Like I said, I can back-feed power through the Datalink and start the truck so it's not a connection issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OK, so I think this is going to turn into another replacing fusible links thread. I've spent the last couple weeks reading everything I can find and I really don't like anyone else's solution. I was about ready to pull the trigger on a Blue Sea Systems SafetyHub 150 and then realized that it still doesn't have enough MIDI fuses for all of the high amperage leads so I'm done with that idea... not to mention the f'ing thing costs $120USD!!!!

After a bunch of searching I think I've found a great solution. Italian company called MTA had modular MIDI fuse holders that you can use with a bus bar. It's a pretty slick solution. They are cheap too! $2.50US each and under $10US for shipping worldwide. I'm going to order 10 and the associated bus bars and MIDI fuses. Super cheap from a company called TME (tme.com). You can even splice in the MEGA fuses to the modular system. Like I said, slick.

PDF File attached for your viewing pleasure.

I'm going to look into replacing all of my under hood fuses and relays with an MTA modular electrical box at some point. There are no MIDI/MEGA fuse modules for the electrical box so the MIDIVAL fuse holders will be a permanent solution for the fusible link SNAFU.

I hope this is the problem... if it's not I've made an unrelated upgrade.
 

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Clean all battery terminals and clamps to metal to metal connection and leave the batteries disconnected from each other overnight. Then check voltage or load test each separately before hooking back up.
 

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OK, so I think this is going to turn into another replacing fusible links thread. I've spent the last couple weeks reading everything I can find and I really don't like anyone else's solution. I was about ready to pull the trigger on a Blue Sea Systems SafetyHub 150 and then realized that it still doesn't have enough MIDI fuses for all of the high amperage leads so I'm done with that idea... not to mention the f'ing thing costs $120USD!!!!

After a bunch of searching I think I've found a great solution. Italian company called MTA had modular MIDI fuse holders that you can use with a bus bar. It's a pretty slick solution. They are cheap too! $2.50US each and under $10US for shipping worldwide. I'm going to order 10 and the associated bus bars and MIDI fuses. Super cheap from a company called TME (tme.com). You can even splice in the MEGA fuses to the modular system. Like I said, slick.

PDF File attached for your viewing pleasure.

I'm going to look into replacing all of my under hood fuses and relays with an MTA modular electrical box at some point. There are no MIDI/MEGA fuse modules for the electrical box so the MIDIVAL fuse holders will be a permanent solution for the fusible link SNAFU.

I hope this is the problem... if it's not I've made an unrelated upgrade.
Please write up a separated thread chronicling what you have done...I know I'm very interested. ;)
 

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After a bunch of searching I think I've found a great solution. Italian company called MTA had modular MIDI fuse holders that you can use with a bus bar. It's a pretty slick solution. They are cheap too! $2.50US each and under $10US for shipping worldwide. I'm going to order 10 and the associated bus bars and MIDI fuses. Super cheap from a company called TME (tme.com). You can even splice in the MEGA fuses to the modular system. l

Can you please provide the part number for the items you bought?

Roy
 

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Discussion Starter #16
OK, so I got everything ripped out and replaced. It definitely was the fusible link so the truck fired right up when I got the work done.

I bounced around all over the net trying to find all of the info I needed on the wire colours and ratings and ended up making an updated duckfoot diagram.

I don't know that I agree with the amperage ratings. 40A seems SUPER high to a lone 14GA wire along with 30A on the 16GA hazard lights but I guess this is how dodge designed it.....



This is how it looked when I started unwrapping the harness and cutting the crap out. I pulled all of the relays out but ended up only having to relocate one, which you can see in the last photo.


I searched all over the internet and really didn't like any of the other solutions. The one I liked the best was the BlueSea Systems SafetyHub 150 but it didn't quite have enough fuses for my liking and the pricetag really pissed me off.

I ended up finding these MIDIVal holders from a company called MTA from Italy. Really nice units! They take Midi fuses and they clip together. They were $2.50ea US from a company called TME out of Poland ($9.99 global shipping www.tme.com). They are PA66-GF30 (Nylon with 30% glass fiber) so they should be good for the long haul.



After clipping them together you have the option of dropping in a bus bar or knocking out the plate in the back and using them as a straight through fuse holder. This was super handy for the flasher circuit and then I made a jumper for the secondary fused Shutdown relay & PCM circuit.



Unfortunately TME didn't have the 5-position bus bar listed so I had to order 2 3-position bus bars, cut them and solder them. I didn't want to do that as the 5-position bar would have been PERFECT but what can ya do? MTA does make a 5-position bar though so maybe that will be a future upgrade if I can find one.




 

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Discussion Starter #17
does anyone know where i can find a good schematic for my 91?
They are all in the dodge service manual. You can buy it on CD from Gino's Garage OR... someone MAY have uploaded a PDF of the manual on a certain bittorrent site :wink2::wink2::wink2:

Think this guy used the set-up your talking about....slick set-up. :thumbsup:

https://offroadpassport.com/forums/topic/4265-what-type-of-fuse/



Those are similar but different. What's the company? I can't see the thread.


Can you please provide the part number for the items you bought?

Roy
https://www.tme.com/ca/en/details/mta-0x01499/car-fuseholders/mta/0101499/
 

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Wow. Thanks. Good job.

I expect, when Dodge sees this post they will send us all an apology and offer Wally a job designing their circuits and making their wiring diagrams.

Roy
 
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