Electric fans ?
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800 Posts
they are not needed but puredieselpower has the best deal ive seen
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934 Posts
Got the electrics cause my shroud was busted and it was a comparable cost. They are bad a$$ IMO. engine runs at 190* always. truck warms up faster. engines runs a little smoother. you pick up a few horses and torq:thumbsup: i think they would be ideal in a cold place mounted as a pusher it could block some of the radiator for warming and kick on if needed
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1,617 Posts
Well i could understand in something that big..
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14,945 Posts
My truck and my travel trailer weigh in far more than their RV and are just about as tall too. Like I said, it depends on where you live, how you drive, and what you tow.
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1,617 Posts
I live in west Texas and its 75f out side as we speak and around 105 in the summer!
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1,617 Posts
Go to a junk yard and find a random set off of a newer car or truck and fab up making them work. Like i said mine came off of a 2002 trans-am......... :thumbsup:
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14,945 Posts
If someone was to change to electric fans, I'd at least want the highest CFM possible. A junk yard isn't going to give you that information.
But it sounds like it worked for you.:thumbsup:
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934 Posts
Katooms right about the CFMs the electrics are way lower than stock. on the other hand i haven't had a coolin or heating problem towing, or driving on the beach wich are to of the hardest things on the truck IMO. oh by the way a real beach not the ones in like oregon or washington where the sand is so hard it like a road
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1,316 Posts
Bad idea. If you do need the flow, electrics won't do it, and keep in mind, about 20% loss going mechanical to electric, then 20% loss again going back to mechanical energy to make the air move. The load on the alternator will be stout, and it won't be able to keep up in high load situations.
Do some basic math (cfm, amperage, etc.) and you won't be so excited about those things. The asinine claims of power and fuel efficiency are based on comparing the stock fan with the thermal clutch engaged, versus the electric fan when it's not hot enough to run. This is simply dishonest.
Some folks living in mild to cold climates take their fan OFF and are fine. Diesels tend to self cool from the air charge when idling, and when under power the truck is moving, and air is flowing, so you can get away with things a gas engine cannot. The iron acts as a thermal bank (it's not very conductive, and can retain a significant amount of heat) as well.
Want fuel efficiency and power from your fan? Clean the gunk off your radiator that was put there by your puke bottle. This will keep the fan clutch from needing to engage.
Do some basic math (cfm, amperage, etc.) and you won't be so excited about those things. The asinine claims of power and fuel efficiency are based on comparing the stock fan with the thermal clutch engaged, versus the electric fan when it's not hot enough to run. This is simply dishonest.
Some folks living in mild to cold climates take their fan OFF and are fine. Diesels tend to self cool from the air charge when idling, and when under power the truck is moving, and air is flowing, so you can get away with things a gas engine cannot. The iron acts as a thermal bank (it's not very conductive, and can retain a significant amount of heat) as well.
Want fuel efficiency and power from your fan? Clean the gunk off your radiator that was put there by your puke bottle. This will keep the fan clutch from needing to engage.
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934 Posts
a 40% loss in what????
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662 Posts
Here is a very informative bit or research done on cooling airflow and the conditions which effect it.
You have to download the paper to read it.
Fan CFM is far from the whole story. Airflow is what is important. The oil on the back of the rad is proof that no matter how strong the fan, air can actually move backwards through it. More CFM potential does not always equate to more cooling airflow.
http://members.cox.net/beekiller/GM...ng issues related to airflow deficiencies.doc
You have to download the paper to read it.
Fan CFM is far from the whole story. Airflow is what is important. The oil on the back of the rad is proof that no matter how strong the fan, air can actually move backwards through it. More CFM potential does not always equate to more cooling airflow.
http://members.cox.net/beekiller/GM...ng issues related to airflow deficiencies.doc
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6,728 Posts
I have Flex-a-Lite kits on both of my trucks - pulling and racing. The pulling truck engine temps, when going down the track, actually dropped with the Flex kit. I have had zero problems with the kit that's almost 3 years old now. IMO - a good upgrade. :thumbsup:
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14,945 Posts
Thats great that an electric fan worked for your application but I'd say that drag racing and tractor pulling aren't the same as towing 10k lbs up a 10 mile 5% grade in summer heat.:thumbsup:
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1,018 Posts
I dont think it would be worth the hassle for another 10hp and or having a chance that i may over heat it warm weather.
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934 Posts
ive never overheated or even gotten close with the electrics. now with the manual ive gotten to the point were i had to pull over and give the truck a break. so IMO they work.
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